Let us know how it goes for fit and function. I'd like something else in my C5 as well.
Yup, right with you there SCJ.
GHG, cost determined another original speedo. I looked into it, after seeing the tacho singhg5 fitted recently, the make he fitted had a lower RPM on it. I forget the make without searching. I'd be interested on how you get on with it though.
All done.... I like it . It seems to work perfectly so far. I had it out on the road today and tonight, setting up the features and etc. Wheel size for correct speed... matched it with a GPS to make sure, shift light and all. It's pretty cool... NICE to have one that works and is accurate. It also allows you to input your old ODO miles or k/m's into the new unit.... as well as a separate ODO that starts a new set of miles from when you start using the new unit. TWO trip meter's, volt meter... LOVE THAT, clock, max speed stored, and a few things I forgot ! Very happy with it so far. And no, you don't need the full 10,000 rpm range.... but the first 6,000 do just fine for now.
The gauge pretty much dropped right in the existing hole. The bezel is about the same size as the stocker.. maybe a tad bigger? And I reused the rubber ring off the stocker, that sits under the bezel..... so the what what you see from the top fits perfect. The body of the gauge is however slightly smaller then the stock one. So where it goes in the hole, is a little bit loose. That was easily fixed by wrapping a few wraps of vinyl tape to take up the slop in it.... perfect. And I reused the stock retaining bracket that holds the stock speedo in place. I just had to drill a couple of new holes in it, to match the new mounting studs on the underside of the new speedo. It's in there very nicely....
If you get one, I would recommend looking into the active speed sensor they offer as an option. This is fly by wire... not mechanical. Speed sensor at the wheel. They give you very powerfull rare earth magnets, that sit and stay perfectly in the 6mm Allen head disk brake retaining bolts.... with the speed sensor picking up those magnetic pulses though an air gap as the wheel spins. It's very accurate..... very much how your pick up coil works off your rotor and the nodules that are on it, for ignition timing. But anyway.... those magnets protrude about two mm's proud of the Allen head, and get very close to the retaining plate for the disk brake as the wheel goes round. What I did, was to grind down a small area of that plate to provide clearance for the magnets as they go round. And I did it in way that would not weaken the plate... I didn't need to take much off. If the active speed sensor is used, there is no need for the use of magnets, as it should read the pulses off of the retaining bolts. So, you have options.
BTW, GREEN wire at the Bikes pick up/ pulsar coil is used to get the signal for the Tach on this unit. Works perfect... Also, set your PISTON NUMBER screen to 24. That is ONE piston, and twenty four nodules on the rotor. Also, ALL of your idiot lights can be wired into the new unit... I left my MIL light in the original location so as not to leave a hole in the dash, but there is a warning light that they provide in the new unit that can be used. AND for those who have them.... there is a fuel gauge buit into the unit that can be used.