Author Topic: New Speedo question  (Read 25523 times)

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Carlsberg Wordsworth

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on: July 18, 2014, 05:35:34 pm
Ok, so my B5 speedo gave up the ghost @ 3616 miles. New one installed, I went for the original again as without seeing the other options all in the flesh/fitted I wasn't sure if I'd like them.

Anyway, being as the new one is now on zero (well it has 1.4 testing miles on it) would you wind with the drill to original mileage or leave as is?

I'm writing on the new one 'replaced @ 3616 miles' etc etc and should I ever sell, will still have the old speedo to pass on.

Thoughts please.


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #1 on: July 18, 2014, 06:19:47 pm
Leave it.  You know when the old one was replaced and can tell anyone you sell it to, and show them.  There's a little box on the form when you sell a car that says something like, "Odometer does not reflect actual mileage."  Leave the drill alone and go out and twist the throttle instead ;)


pmanaz1973

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Reply #2 on: July 18, 2014, 06:49:36 pm
Yeah...I'd not mess with the drill.  My friend wanted to make his milage match on a expensive new speedo for a 1975 BMW and for whatever reason his drill RPMs were a bit much and killed his new speedo.  The speedo compnay wouldn't honor the warranty once they found out he was using a drill.
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Desi Bike

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Reply #3 on: July 18, 2014, 07:03:05 pm
3616 miles to add on to a Speedo would take just over 60 hours if you could control the speed of your drill to run it at 60mph. That's going to cost quite a bit in the electric bill as well as wear and tear on a drill.
Maybe a Speedo shop can adjust the reading if you want to get it done. Might cost about the same as the electric bill and drill wear.
میں نہیں چاہتا کہ ایک اچار
میں صرف اپنی موٹر سائیکل پر سوار کرنا چاہتے ہیں


Carlsberg Wordsworth

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Reply #4 on: July 18, 2014, 08:31:42 pm
@Desi - lol, thanks for the math, it's too hot here to be bothered to work it out. I just said ages.

I was going to rig something fancy up with the chuck attached to something to go against the tire, but like I said, it's too hot.

With those replies, I'm going with gut instinct and the general consensus then :)

Thanks all.


wildbill

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Reply #5 on: July 19, 2014, 02:59:17 am
if i was in your situation -id toss the old one and forget it ever broke and just ride on. as for my reason if i was the new buyer and you showed me your old speedo plus whats on your new one - first thing i'd think -how many other speedometer has he had on that bike. how many kkkk's has it really done etc etc.
if you had done 30k and it happened that's totally different and worth the mention but 3600 not worth your trouble.
i bet a lot tamper with bike speedometer especially enfiels when you can pick them up from india for $30  ;) shit i actually did it myself ...lol


suitcasejefferson

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Reply #6 on: July 19, 2014, 03:37:37 am
I wouldn't try to change the reading on the new speedometer, but I would save the old one, and note when it failed if I ever decided to sell the bike. A buyer is not likely to question you, after all, you didn't have to tell them anything.

I recently had the stator fail on my Vulcan 750, after 92,000 miles. Replacing it requires removing and partially disassembling the motor. It is several times more complicated than an Enfield motor. I decided it is not worth it. The thing is, it runs just fine for over 200 miles if you start with a fully charged battery. It occurred to me that I could sell it without mentioning this to the buyer. But I cannot bring myself to do that to a fellow rider. Karma can be a bitch, and it's not worth the few hundred more I might get. I even thought about trading it off to a dealer, who would not check for that either, but then they would turn around and sell it to an unsuspecting customer "as is", and leave that customer with a big repair bill or a worthless bike. I wouldn't want that to happen to me (though it has) and won't do it to someone else.

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ROVERMAN

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Reply #7 on: July 19, 2014, 03:49:11 pm
If more people were like you SCJ...... you know.


gashousegorilla

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Reply #8 on: July 19, 2014, 06:19:23 pm
If more people were like you SCJ...... you know.

  +1 on that.

 I have given up on the stock speedo, sometimes it works , sometimes not. And just got one of these in the mail. Hopefully it works and fits !  Finally a tach, trip meter, voltmeter and etc..... Shift light even !

http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/koso/shop/multi-functions-motorcycle_gauges/t-t-meter/

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bluesdaddy2

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Reply #9 on: July 21, 2014, 12:19:56 pm
  +1 on that.

 I have given up on the stock speedo, sometimes it works , sometimes not. And just got one of these in the mail. Hopefully it works and fits !  Finally a tach, trip meter, voltmeter and etc..... Shift light even !

http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/koso/shop/multi-functions-motorcycle_gauges/t-t-meter/

Let us know how it goes for fit and function.  I'd like something else in my C5 as well.
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Carlsberg Wordsworth

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Reply #10 on: July 21, 2014, 09:11:48 pm
Yup, right with you there SCJ.

GHG, cost determined another original speedo. I looked into it, after seeing the tacho singhg5 fitted recently, the make he fitted had a lower RPM on it. I forget the make without searching. I'd be interested on how you get on with it though.


gashousegorilla

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Reply #11 on: July 22, 2014, 05:21:20 am
Let us know how it goes for fit and function.  I'd like something else in my C5 as well.


Yup, right with you there SCJ.

GHG, cost determined another original speedo. I looked into it, after seeing the tacho singhg5 fitted recently, the make he fitted had a lower RPM on it. I forget the make without searching. I'd be interested on how you get on with it though.


   All done.... I like it .  It seems to work perfectly so far. I had it out on the road today and tonight, setting up the features and etc. Wheel size for correct speed... matched it with a GPS to make sure, shift light and all. It's pretty cool... NICE to have one that works and is accurate.  It also allows you to input your old ODO miles or k/m's into the new unit.... as well as a separate ODO that starts a new set of miles from when you start using the new unit. TWO trip meter's, volt meter... LOVE THAT, clock, max speed stored, and a few things I forgot !  Very happy with it so far. And no, you don't need the full 10,000 rpm range.... but the first 6,000 do just fine for now.

 The gauge pretty much dropped right in the existing hole. The bezel is about the same size as the stocker.. maybe a tad bigger? And I reused the rubber ring off the stocker, that sits under the bezel..... so the what what you see from the top fits perfect. The body of the gauge is however slightly smaller then the stock one. So where it goes in the hole, is a little bit loose. That was easily fixed by wrapping a few wraps of vinyl tape to take up the slop in it.... perfect. And I reused the stock retaining bracket that holds the stock speedo in place.  I just had to drill a couple of new holes in it, to match the new mounting studs on the underside of the new speedo.  It's in there very nicely....

   If you get one, I would recommend looking into the active speed sensor they offer as an option. This is fly by wire... not mechanical. Speed sensor at the wheel.  They give you very powerfull rare earth magnets, that sit and stay perfectly in the 6mm Allen head disk brake retaining bolts.... with the speed sensor picking up those magnetic pulses though an air gap as the wheel spins. It's very accurate..... very much how your pick up coil works off your rotor and the nodules that are on it, for ignition timing. But anyway.... those magnets protrude about two mm's proud of the Allen head, and get very close to the retaining plate for the disk brake as the wheel goes round.  What I did, was to grind down a small area of that plate to provide clearance for the magnets as they go round. And I did it in way that would not weaken the plate... I didn't need to take much off.   If the active speed sensor is used, there is no need for the use of magnets, as it should read the pulses off of the retaining bolts.   So, you have options.

   BTW, GREEN wire at the Bikes pick up/ pulsar coil is used to get the signal for the Tach on this unit. Works perfect... Also, set your PISTON NUMBER screen to 24.   That is ONE piston, and twenty four nodules on the rotor.  Also, ALL of your idiot lights can be wired into the new unit... I left my MIL light in the original location so as not to leave a hole in the dash, but there is a warning light that they provide in the new unit that can be used. AND for those who have them.... there is a fuel gauge buit into the unit that can be used.



 
« Last Edit: July 22, 2014, 05:31:11 am by gashousegorilla »
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.


Bulletman

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Reply #12 on: July 22, 2014, 05:44:45 am
GHG.
That's a lot this unit does for the price. Nice a Job explaining the workings .... Looks good as well
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JVS

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Reply #13 on: July 22, 2014, 06:00:08 am
I agree. Very nice looking unit. Neat install.  :D
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gashousegorilla

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Reply #14 on: July 22, 2014, 06:21:16 am
GHG.
That's a lot this unit does for the price. Nice a Job explaining the workings .... Looks good as well

I agree. Very nice looking unit. Neat install.  :D

 
  Yeah, I agree not tooooo bad for the money. And it's pretty well made. The service I received from them was excellent... got it in a couple days ?    Very fast email responce to questions I had before buying it.... And when I called into order it. They were also familiar with Singhs issues that we had discussed, and sent me the RPM signal option for free, just in case I needed it. Turns out you don't on this unit.  But, very very good and helpfull service all in all.

  And to help with determining wheel circumference... a much more accurate way I found , then just laying a tape measure on the ground and measuring the valve stem at one rotation. This was confirmed with GPS........

http://www.athropolis.com/popup/c-circ2.htm

  My diameter is 320 mm's.  19 " front wheel with 90/90-19 Avon RoadRiders on the rim. Orrr a circumference of about 2011 mm's.
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.