Author Topic: 08 Bullet 5-speed question  (Read 12715 times)

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BuckeyeBullet

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on: July 24, 2008, 02:54:30 am
I'm a new rider and just bought an '08 Bullet 500 w/AVL motor. It's my first bike, though I took a basic rider course in the spring to learn some ropes. Lovin' it so far. My Bullet appears to have a finicky transmission that doesn't like to downshift. Sometimes it needs a stomp to go down a gear, other times it'll go to neutral between every gear (without illuminating the neutral light unless it's a 2-1 shift) and requires a light tap on the shifter to nudge into a lower gear when that happens. I bought it from a dealer as a new bike with 143mi on it already. Just wondering if this transmission thing is normal or does it need an adjustment or?? The clutch engages very early so I'm wondering if it isn't fully disengaging when I pull the lever. It's under warranty but the dealer is about 100mi away so I don't want to go up there unless I really have to. Thanks!
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scoTTy

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Reply #1 on: July 24, 2008, 03:03:33 am
sounds pretty normal.. mine had 18 miles on it when I bought it.. found the transmission to be a little picky.. but as I approach 1000 miles things do fall in place with a resounding clunk..  havn't had any false neutrals for awhile .. forget about coming to a stop with it in gear and try to find neutral ..as if one could see the little green dot anYway in sunlight.. gottA  find nuetral while you are coming to a stop... er ??  there are others here than have ridden the RE longer than me..WelCome


REpozer

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Reply #2 on: July 24, 2008, 03:32:21 am
Mine had 14 miles, Now I have 660 miles, I sometimes have a skip between 3-4 gear but never down shift. Your clutch adjustment might be worth a phone call to the dealer, they may talk you though it.
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scoTTy

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Reply #3 on: July 24, 2008, 04:10:52 am
i have fiddled with the knurled nut on the clutch lever.. experimenting..  i find the clutch is disengaged at a stop when I forgot to shift to neutral and had to do the stop light ballet .. that i only have to pull the clutch lever in to within 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch to the handlebar..  I can pull it till it's seated.. but why....  about an inch or so release puts me in gear..  experiment..these transmissions i find to be notchy .. but mind is shiffting  smoother as I listen to the whIRR of the meChAnIcaL noiZes


Tiny Tim

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Reply #4 on: July 24, 2008, 09:16:29 am
Take care not to confuse clutch cable adjustment with clutch adjustment.

The cable should be adjusted first to provide around 1/4" free play at the handlebar lever. This will ensure that the clutch will not be slipping through the lever not releasing fully.

Next, adjust the clutch at the gearbox end. First remove the "5 SPEED"  adjustment plate on the gearbox with an allan key. Take not that, once the locknut is slackened, a small adjustment of the inner screw (the clutch push rod) goes an awfull long way! Useing the points of the clock as adjustment points is a good idea.

You are aiming for just enough clutch actuation to allow neutral to be selected from 1st and 2nd when stopped and the engine idling.

Once you have achieved this, replace the cover plate, re-check the free play at the lever and gor for a ride. Try going uphill in as high a gear as possible and use more throttle to check that the clutch is not slipping at the top end.

Finally, The UK importers are now supplying a modified clutch actuating arm that replaces the existing in the gearbox housing. It has a swivvel connection to the cable and should eliminate the tendancy for the nipple to come adrift from the cable. It also requires an alternative cable which has a fixed sweep in it from the gearbox housing thus providing a very light clutch lever.

The false neutrals you are experiencing are just that and should be able to be reduced by adjustment within the gearbox which is probably best done by a competent dealer. Maybe on your next service?

Good luck and don't worry about having a go. It's easier than you think and having a bike you can tinker with is the main reason people buy Enfields.

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shrugger

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Reply #5 on: July 24, 2008, 12:14:38 pm
Had the same. Plus it wouldn't go up from 1st if stopped. ??? But at around
700-800 miles it sorted itself. It's still clunky, but there's nuthin for that 'cept
maybe a right hand shift.( I got one on the way ;) ) I still have to hunt around
for neutral now and then. But it works pretty good otherwise.
So put a few hundred miles on it first, before you start with the cussing and
the freaking and the BFH swinging.  :P
2008 Bullet 500 Classic AVL


Thumper

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Reply #6 on: July 24, 2008, 12:52:37 pm
BB,

The  clutch action on my 2006 AVL Electra X has been almost Japanese-like in it's smoothness and consistency. There has only been one exception and that has occurred twice: when I adjust freeplay at the lever and don't get it just right, it doesn't want to shift in or out of 1st gear when warm.

With 143 miles, I would take it back to the dealer and have it addressed. It doesn't sound normal to me.

Matt


Sag Harbor~Bullet

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Reply #7 on: July 24, 2008, 04:47:48 pm
I'm a new rider and just bought an '08 Bullet 500 w/AVL motor. It's my first bike, though I took a basic rider course in the spring to learn some ropes. Lovin' it so far. My Bullet appears to have a finicky transmission that doesn't like to downshift. Sometimes it needs a stomp to go down a gear, other times it'll go to neutral between every gear (without illuminating the neutral light unless it's a 2-1 shift) and requires a light tap on the shifter to nudge into a lower gear when that happens. I bought it from a dealer as a new bike with 143mi on it already. Just wondering if this transmission thing is normal or does it need an adjustment or?? The clutch engages very early so I'm wondering if it isn't fully disengaging when I pull the lever. It's under warranty but the dealer is about 100mi away so I don't want to go up there unless I really have to. Thanks!

When I first got my Bullet, I had the same question about finding a false neutral between gears...which is very normal I've been told. That can be remedied with more shifting finesse.

The stomping on your shifter to downshift sounds a bit strange however.
A tap or gentle push is all it should take.

Sounds like something else may be at work...maybe a clutch adjustment may be in order? You should have your dealer take a look just to be sure.
Good luck with that.

« Last Edit: July 30, 2008, 12:18:37 pm by SagHarbor~Bullet »
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PhilJ

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Reply #8 on: July 25, 2008, 01:37:12 am
In between gears is NOT a neutral, it's false neutral. Just means you didn't get it shifted properly. Never park your bike running unless the green neutral light is on. You may not be able to shift properly if your clutch is out of adjustment as it sounds like yours is. It will get better as it ages (acquires miles). But I think you should try adjusting the clutch at the clutch lever to move the engagement out just a little. Don't be afraid to try it, if it doesn't do what you expect, move it back. Just do one thing at a time, so that you don't confuse yourself.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.


Thumper

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Reply #9 on: July 25, 2008, 02:02:04 am
Never park your bike running unless the green neutral light is on. 

Geeez, if I followed this advice I'd only be able to park about 50% of the time!

Me wise older brother once said, "The only purpose of the neutral indicator is to tell you when the Neutral indicator bulb is working." ...and it doesn't always do that!

 :D

I have the worst luck with neutral switches....

Matt


PhilJ

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Reply #10 on: July 25, 2008, 02:25:48 pm
Well Matt, I guess your right. Nothing works all the time. Murphy's Law!
On one post some time back a new guy was talking about the false neutral deal and in the same sentence talked about liking to put the bike on the side stand and run into quick mart and back out. Ever since then I caution guys against that.


Thumper

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Reply #11 on: July 25, 2008, 04:46:38 pm
Well Matt, I guess your right. Nothing works all the time. Murphy's Law!
On one post some time back a new guy was talking about the false neutral deal and in the same sentence talked about liking to put the bike on the side stand and run into quick mart and back out. Ever since then I caution guys against that.

The one where I hurt myself is having disconnected the sidestand switch: I've got to be real careful that I'm in neutral before kicking or using the starter... I'm getting good at remembering that one!


LJRead

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Reply #12 on: July 25, 2008, 07:32:31 pm
To me, it is easy enough to see things like when it is in neutral when stopped and whether the side stand is down.  But yesterday I took the bike out of her garage, was getting off to go lock the door prior to going for a ride, and the bike started to fall over - forgot to put the side stand down,  So I was straddled the bike, not wanting it to go over all the way, yet not able to lift it upright either.  Finally got my leg over to the left side and could then lift it.  I'm afraid I'm learning by doing things wrong, and so far it hasn't hurt much, but I'm hoping my luck doesn't run out before I get more conscious of doing things right.

Indicator lights won't work for me, too much sunlight and too poor eyesight!

One other thing, about running into the store while leaving it on idle.  I'm finding that if I leave the bike idling for more than a minute or so it begins to warm up.  I'm trying to figure out the effect of humidity and think that if one is riding, creating a breeze, then humidity is positive as it helps whisk away the heat, but in dead air at standstill, it creates a sort of blanket over the engine and heat isn't dissipated as well.  The bike is very easy to start so I'm just going to shut her down whenever I'm stooped for even a short time.

But back to the original topic, I'm finding that my four speed needs a firm foot, if not, I get a false neutral.  Also tweaking the engine when downshifting is getting more refined.


No. 5

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Reply #13 on: July 26, 2008, 04:31:54 am
Here is a  post sent to me when breaking in my Electra

"to check the clutch actuating free play -

To do this you need ensure that both cable adjusters (handlebar and gear box) are set nearly all the way in. Remove the oval (5 SPEED) inspection cover that is held on by the two allen screws. Loosen the 10mm nut with the set screw in the center. With the nut backed off loosen the set screw until there is no resistance. Then turn the set screw in to the point that you just feel resistance, back the set screw off 1/8 turn to allow for heat expansion and tighten the locking nut without moving the set screw's position. Replace the inspection cover and gasket. Now adjust your clutch cable freeplay as you would normally do. "

I also found that the rubber insulation or coating on the outer cable sleeve extended past the metal on the gear box end without the bushing like the lever end. This made for a spongy clutch as the outer cable compressed into the adjustment nut at the gear box end. I just trimmed of the extra rubber and cleaned out the fragments and repeated the adjustment above.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2008, 04:40:14 am by No. 5 »


Thumper

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Reply #14 on: July 26, 2008, 01:19:39 pm
Here is a  post sent to me when breaking in my Electra

"to check the clutch actuating free play -

To do this you need ensure that both cable adjusters (handlebar and gear box) are set nearly all the way in. Remove the oval (5 SPEED) inspection cover that is held on by the two allen screws. Loosen the 10mm nut with the set screw in the center. With the nut backed off loosen the set screw until there is no resistance. Then turn the set screw in to the point that you just feel resistance, back the set screw off 1/8 turn to allow for heat expansion and tighten the locking nut without moving the set screw's position. Replace the inspection cover and gasket. Now adjust your clutch cable freeplay as you would normally do. "

I also found that the rubber insulation or coating on the outer cable sleeve extended past the metal on the gear box end without the bushing like the lever end. This made for a spongy clutch as the outer cable compressed into the adjustment nut at the gear box end. I just trimmed of the extra rubber and cleaned out the fragments and repeated the adjustment above.

The clutch and cable/lever adjustment information in this thread is good. Maybe someone could separate the wheat from the chaff and post it to the FAQ or Tech Tips section...
Since I've only adjusted my lever freeplay at the lever, I don't have the understanding to sum it up with any confidence...
Anyone else up to the challenge?

I know that I'll need to refer back to it one of these days!

Matt