Author Topic: Pushrod replacement  (Read 1514 times)

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Mr.Mazza

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on: May 26, 2014, 01:22:14 am
Hey guys, turns out exhaust pushrod is bowed, got a spare alloy set so Ill chuck em.

Can I have a guide to replacing? Do I just open the rocker cover, pull en out and nee ones in?
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ace.cafe

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Reply #1 on: May 26, 2014, 01:38:48 am
Hey guys, turns out exhaust pushrod is bowed, got a spare alloy set so Ill chuck em.

Can I have a guide to replacing? Do I just open the rocker cover, pull en out and nee ones in?

You'll probably have to remove the rockers to do it.
It is imperative that you only torque the rocker block nuts to 5 ft-lbs. NO more than that. They strip out very easily, and the book says 9 ft-lbs, and that often strips the threads out. If that happens, it escalates from a simple push rod replacement, into a problem with installing heli-coils or inserts into the head,and they are oddball British threads that it is difficult to find inserts for.
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Mr.Mazza

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Reply #2 on: May 26, 2014, 03:48:43 am
You'll probably have to remove the rockers to do it.
It is imperative that you only torque the rocker block nuts to 5 ft-lbs. NO more than that. They strip out very easily, and the book says 9 ft-lbs, and that often strips the threads out. If that happens, it escalates from a simple push rod replacement, into a problem with installing heli-coils or inserts into the head,and they are oddball British threads that it is difficult to find inserts for.

I thought as much, does removing the rockers mean I have to touch the valves at all?
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ace.cafe

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Reply #3 on: May 26, 2014, 03:50:43 am
I thought as much, does removing the rockers mean I have to touch the valves at all?

No, but the rockers touch the valves. You'll just have to set the lash at zero again, with the new push rods in there.
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Mr.Mazza

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Reply #4 on: May 26, 2014, 04:09:22 am
No, but the rockers touch the valves. You'll just have to set the lash at zero again, with the new push rods in there.

Awesome thanks ace!
I just was worried id have to take valves out or something like that, seems pretty quick change over.
Lizzy - 07 500 Deluxe ES - Red and chrome - Sold.


Ice

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Reply #5 on: May 26, 2014, 04:28:39 am
"It is imperative that you only torque the rocker block nuts to 5 ft-lbs. NO more than that. They strip out very easily, and the book says 9 ft-lbs, and that often strips the threads out."


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baird4444

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Reply #6 on: May 26, 2014, 05:49:07 am
Good advice ICE...
   my dealer( Dan Holmes ) warned me that the metalurgy of the head was the equivalent of peanut butter! His process was to use a SHORTY ratchet and just put your thumb on top and your index finger out on the end of the shorty; tighten with the 1 finger and that's it.
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Mr.Mazza

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Reply #7 on: May 26, 2014, 09:42:29 am
Yep, got it 5lbs!
Ill use a short 1/4" rachet with no leverage.

I also read the alloy pushrods sorta 'break in'?
Like adjustment needed at 100 miles, then another 100 miles then your sweet until a while?
Lizzy - 07 500 Deluxe ES - Red and chrome - Sold.


RGT

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Reply #8 on: May 26, 2014, 11:38:41 am
I found , as Mr Mazza mentioned. That in my Fireball build the performance alloy push rods took quite a while to seat requiring frequent adjustment and producing a lot of aluminum flecks in the oil. When I took it apart I found the top pockets in the aluminum seem to have been too deep so that the rocker may not have actually been bottoming out initially so they had to carve their way down opening up the pocket as they went, I can't remember if I took pictures of what I found or not I will check or can do it next summer when I am home. So they may be simple to change but may open up other cans of worms....