[flyboy]

I know this topic has been beaten to death, but I do have a question specific to my ride. Most of this topic posts do not refer to their bike's mods. Or, those that do reference, seem to be Fireball to some extent. I do understand the pros and cons with "up-gearing" and loads it can put on motor.
My '99 500ks is pretty much stock, with the exception of TM32, Ace Air Canister and shorty exhaust (with bolt-in baffle). Can my bike handle this? I live in rural SE Pennsy, so lots of rolling hills, not mountains but def not flat roads.
Thanks!

[High On Octane]

Here's the deal.  In mostly stock form (no internal engine mods) increasing the the front sprocket 1 tooth will only change your cruising RPM into a lower more comfortable cruising engine speed.  The downfalls are that you will lose a little torque and may lose a little fuel economy for in city riding.  With the free flowing exhaust and intake and TM32, you may or may not benefit from the front sprocket change, but it will give you a bit more peace of mind knowing the engine isn't revving so high while cruising.   

Scottie J

[ace.cafe]

I'd say leave the 17T on it. Cruise at 55mph, and you'll do fine.

[Mike_D]

I have an '03 with a Goldie exhaust, tm-32 and an 18 tooth sprocket.   Tune the carb right and it's pretty much perfect.  I personally bearly notice missing out on lower end power but am able to cruise at 60mph pretty much all day.  There is a hill up in bear mountain that I used to do in 4th that I'm now doing in 3rd but whatever.  I'd say go for it.

[flyboy]

Thanks guys. I think what i'm really trying o accomplish is similar to what you've said MikeD. On a long uphill ascent, 3rd gear will get really wound out and if I hit 4th, the lugging comes in. I guess this would be my attempt to rectify as opposed to the costly CR Gear Set. Perhaps, I could more comfortably stay in 3rd on those type hills. (I do understand this can't compare to the benefit of the CR Gear Set, but can't fork out that kind of doe right now).
All that said, I do respect your opinion Ace, and will probably stay with the 17T. It's just the fact that I'll have it all apart to replace bearings, which is why I was considering.

[baird4444]

for me the greatest advantage to the 18TH
was that it put the shift points closer to our in town speed limits. Seemed like the limits were at a shift point, now it will be easier to cruise close to the limits without being so close to the next gear.
     Mike
below is from my files....
looks like a 200rpm dif. at 60mph
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The speeds above are from a GPS corrected speedo, and I think they're pretty
tight
numbers.
I don't think the bike would do 95 MPH if you pushed it off the Sinny Arbor
Bridge, but it
touches 85 with my 220 lb on board, so I think a lighter rider would see 90.
(535cc, 8.5:1. 34mm Mikuni, short Brit exhaust, K&N)
More importantly, it means my "75 MPH all day, 80 to pass only," are usable
limits. I just
can't see that motor objecting to 4300 RPM. It sure sounds relaxed.
Below are extrapolated numbers for 19 and 18 tooth sprockets;
18T (19/18ths of above RPM)
50MPH-3029 RPM
60MPH-3642 RPM
70MPH-4249 RPM
80MPH-4855 RPM

17T (stock, 19/17ths of 19T readings)
50MPH-3207 RPM
60MPH-3855 RPM
70MPH-4498 RPM
80MPH-5141 RPM

[High On Octane]

I came up with these charts a few months back.  The gentleman who designed the spreadsheet created it for the sole purpose of land speed racing, but works very well as an accurate reference.  The first chart posted is for a Classic Bullet with a 18" rear wheel, and the second is for a Classic Bullet with a 19" rear wheel.  The numbers in the left vertical column are MPH, as you work to right of each speed, the next numbers are engine RPM for that gear indicated.  When you get to the far right of the graph (4th gear) you will notice 5 different columns, the last 4 columns are all the same so only pay attention to the first 2.  At the top you will notice different gearing options and how they dictate the final gear ratio and correlating RPMs below.









Scottie J

[baird4444]

Good One scottie

[guss,guss]

i am in that annoying speed limit deal. i either wind out a little too high in third or run it up to forth and lug around.
 so tell me this, when i do get around to changing the sprocket,(I've had mine less than a year and never had the primary off,) what parts will be standard replacement? i think its  the
 chaincase to crankcase gasket
 clutch oil seal
 and seal and adapter plate
 I've seen that video of the guy taking it down to the clutch, looks like all that's left is the case.

[Kevin Mahoney]

We have many customers that go to 18. I have one on my Classic. Mine is a 2002 4-speed and it does not help with the gap between 3rd and 4th. The close ratio gear set does. It is very expensive and the cost benefit ratio is questionable (for me anyway). Customers that have invested love them though. I do not recommend going to 19. We have customers that swear by 19-20T but my personal opinion is that they are too much.

I only put an 18 on mine to see how they worked. I am too lazy to remove it. The 17 is fine also. I think it depends upon your usage.

[guss,guss]

thanks Kevin, perhaps i should have mentioned i understand the gear ratio thing, and i would love to put a set of those in but I'm going to just try to increase my top speed in third and forth a bit. for now i just want to figure out what is needed when i take the primary case off.

[ERC]

As Ace says keep the 17.   ERC

[baird4444]

As Ace says keep the 17.   ERC

I think the biggest concern ACE has is the ability to cool the oil, trying to do 4 laner speeds. So long as you don't overdo your top cruising speed you should be fine. I used to cruise at 63 indicated, my motor's "Happy Spot" which was prolly closer to 58 mph considering the Enfield's generous speedo...   Just listen to and FEEL that Happy Spot.
    This is mostly a labor job. Yea, you should have the gasket tween the inner case and main shaft area but you could prolly cut one outta gasket paper. That felt sealing washer oughta be changed while you are there, you don't get there very often...
but...  if you are leaving grease in the gear case you aren't going to leak that much out this side, specially if you "vent" the plug.
I actually found a thick wide rubber washer in my plumbing parts  to fit behind the sprocket that werked just fine. As far as that seal on the final drive shaft; wrap the splines with tape to prevent the splines from slicing the soft seal when you pull off the inner case. I think the 3 allen screws surrounding the main shaft holding the inner case are  5 1/2 MM - I think...   don't forget to pull the nuts off the bolt on the primary chain slipper...    rubber outer case seal is reusable...
bout it, I may have some pics if needed - Mike