If the bolt sticks out of the far side of the frame at least 10mm all you need is the nut.
The nut must be a high strength type because of the high torque that is specified for the rear engine mount location so if you can find a M10-1mm high strength nut your in business.
The correct torque value for the bolt is 50N/M or 37 Lb/Ft.
If your bolt sheared off its threads I can tell you what I ended up doing.
The M10-1 X 260 high strength bolt was totally unavailable here and I didn't want to wait for NFG to ship one to me (along with the lost high strength nut), so I went to my local hardware store.
They have several different sizes of threaded steel, both in regular strength and heat treated high strength materials.
I bought a length of 3/8-24UNF heat treated high strength threaded stock, two grade 5, 3/8-24UNF nuts and a brand new hack saw blade.
Using the new hack saw blade, I cut the threaded stock 1 inch longer than the old, sheared off bolt.
(Buy the new hack saw blade. This heat treated steel will be almost impossible to cut with a old dull blade. In fact, after cutting off the length of threaded stock, the new blade is now dull.)
Threading a nut on one end I inserted it into the frame and thru the engine mount and tightened the nut on the other end to 37 Lb/Ft of torque.
That was over 9000 miles ago and it's still working great.
(added) If you noticed a lot of engine vibration recently, you'll be amazed at how much of it goes away after getting the rear engine mount bolt fixed.