Author Topic: sealed bearings for gear gox  (Read 2428 times)

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guss,guss

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on: May 18, 2014, 04:07:28 pm
hello gearheads. i read everyone says when installing the RH shift conversion "go ahead and replace the bearings with sealed while you're in there" 
 that makes it sound like it no big deal. but to do that don't you need to remove the entire primary case, inner and outer, and remove all the guts, gears and both shafts, to do this?  thanks.
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cafeman

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Reply #1 on: May 18, 2014, 05:00:57 pm
Pretty sure it all gets gutted. I've put off dong the same but my time is up! Tired of the goop and leaks.


flyboy

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Reply #2 on: May 18, 2014, 06:42:05 pm
From my understanding, there shouldn't be anything additional to remove...gear set  & guts stays. Both inner and outer gearbox covers get changed anyway.
Aside of the bolt-together puzzle, the only issue would be pressing in the bearings, but I don't anticipate that to be any big deal.
On these bikes you got to upgrade any stock parts you can when it's feasible. Got for it, I'm sure you'll be glad you did if you plan on keeping it.


guss,guss

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Reply #3 on: May 18, 2014, 07:02:32 pm
what about the big set of bearings on the final drive side where the sprocket is? if it only entails the little set in the cover on the shift side it would be no big deal.
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Blltrdr

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Reply #4 on: May 18, 2014, 07:24:54 pm
what about the big set of bearings on the final drive side where the sprocket is? if it only entails the little set in the cover on the shift side it would be no big deal.

I only replaced the one on the front using the instructions that are in the Snidal Manual and had no leakage on the sprocket side. There is a seal on that side which should keep most of the oil from leaking from the case. You want to install the new bearing removing the seal that faces into the gearbox so it can always be lubricated. There is also a vent mod where you drill a hole through the gearbox inner case half where the filler hole is just below the bottom of the filler plug. I think it is like 1/16" bit you use.
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Ice

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Reply #5 on: May 21, 2014, 02:07:29 pm
I only replaced the one on the front using the instructions that are in the Snidal Manual and had no leakage on the sprocket side. There is a seal on that side which should keep most of the oil from leaking from the case. You want to install the new bearing removing the seal that faces into the gearbox so it can always be lubricated. There is also a vent mod where you drill a hole through the gearbox inner case half where the filler hole is just below the bottom of the filler plug. I think it is like 1/16" bit you use.

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mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #6 on: May 22, 2014, 05:03:11 pm
I am a bit late for this thread but I can tell you my experiance with my '99 bullet 500.  The Snidal manual only mentions the replacement of the gearbox cover side sealed bearing.  Using a sealed bearing on that side will reduce oil leak under the kick starter.  However, the big leak on my bike was from the output shaft on the primary side of gearbox.  That bearing has no seals from the factory (at least until 2001 or 2002).  The output shaft that goes through the output bearing does have a seal that seals against a "distance piece" (metal washer). That distance piece takes up the space between the output shaft and the output shaft seal. 

To make a long story short, to be certain there are no leaks you would need to strip the guts of  the gearbox and primary side, then get a drift to pound the output shaft bearing out of the gearbox case, replace it with a sealed bearing (6203rs or zz if I remember correctly), then install a new output shaft seal against the "distance piece" and put it all back together.

I sounds like a big ordeal, however, it stops the leaks and I had alot of fun doing it.
« Last Edit: May 22, 2014, 10:58:56 pm by mrunderhill1975a »


Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #7 on: May 22, 2014, 08:27:47 pm
The output shaft seal is in fact a felt washer and continued that way until the end of production. The box was always meant to use 00 grease (not grease, not oil, sort of like snot). It does a good job but you are better off using a modern synthetic grease. If you convert to gear oil you MAY see leakage, not always. To change that bearing you do have to take the box apart. I just leave the grease in mine
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mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #8 on: May 22, 2014, 11:09:43 pm
I agree with Kevin, there is a felt washer that needs to be renewed periodically.  However, the seal I found most helpful to renew was the output shaft seal that rubs on the "distance piece".  The "distance piece" then rubs on the felt washer.  Kevin is correct that when these two seals are fresh, the 00 grease will stay in the box.

Snidal recommended gearoil, but I found that gear oil leaked at an alarming rate.  I chose to use 00 veedol (snapper 00 grease) and it has worked for over 26000 miles.

And speaking of 26000 miles, that is without any rebuilds of the rings, piston, valves, or gearbox.  My '99 has been very good to me.


guss,guss

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Reply #9 on: May 23, 2014, 12:20:37 am
alrighty then,  thanks allot guys.
 i have the 00 snapper grease. i was planning to use it after the RH conversion is done. i will do the bearings another time. can i replace the felt seal from the outside? i know that would require the primary off. if that's the case i may go with a larger sprocket.
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mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #10 on: May 25, 2014, 04:48:14 am
Yes, the felt washer seal is directly under the sprocket.  When you get the sprocket off, you will see the distance piece"  AND THE SEAL that contacts the distance piece.


flyboy

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Reply #11 on: May 25, 2014, 02:19:23 pm
Sorry and at the risk of hijacking this thread, I have a question in preparation of replacing both of my bearings with the sealed bearings.
Question...can someone offer opinion/advise as to whether it is common practice to remove the 'inboard' plastic seal from the bearings in order to offer lubrication to the bearings themselves? I think I've read it both ways. Would the sealed bearing be efficient with only the outboard plastic seal or tend to leak after time? I plan on using 90wt.
Thanks!


ace.cafe

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Reply #12 on: May 25, 2014, 02:21:54 pm
Sorry and at the risk of hijacking this thread, I have a question in preparation of replacing both of my bearings with the sealed bearings.
Question...can someone offer opinion/advise as to whether it is common practice to remove the 'inboard' plastic seal from the bearings in order to offer lubrication to the bearings themselves? I think I've read it both ways. Would the sealed bearing be efficient with only the outboard plastic seal or tend to leak after time? I plan on using 90wt.
Thanks!

Yes, we have always removed the inboard plastic seal.
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flyboy

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Reply #13 on: May 25, 2014, 02:29:48 pm
Thanks Tom!