[cafeman]

Time to strip the gearbox, install sealed bearings, close ratio gear set, and replace any worn parts (nothing worn to the point needing replaced luckily) Sourced Nachi sealed bearings, have gearset and other bits on the way. Meanwhile, the shifting had been a little notchy so having it all apart gave me a chance to inspect the gears, shafts etc. Biggest issue was the 2nd and 3rd gears and the layshaft which is where there was quite a bit of hanging up as they slide via the operating fork. Sharp edges on the layshaft along with not much chamfer or radiusing on the gears as they fit on the layshaft (as shown in pictures) So I used a Dremel to dress things up, and smoothed everything up with a little emery cloth. Result is a marked improvement just sliding things by hand, very smooth with no noticeable notchiness. Hopefully it is better shifting when actually running, and just look at that jigsaw puzzle!

[Kevin Mahoney]

Taking care of the details is helpful. Just make sure you don't get below the hardening of the gears

[cafeman]

Taking care of the details is helpful. Just make sure you don't get below the hardening of the gears

I think I should be ok on not breaking through the hardening, mostly just rounded off the sharp edges on the inside edges of the gear cluster. Good thing I didn't get too carried away! Thereare a lot of areas where taking care of details I would think will make things work smoother, fingers crossed it shifts like butter.....or at least a reduction in "clunks"

[cafeman]

Just received the inner primary from India from Ebay seller "EnfieldCounty"
and close ratio gearset etc from Hitchcocks.

I used a dremel cut-off wheel to remove the starter gear ring from the crankshaft sprocket, and ordered the studs, nuts, washers etc from Hitchcocks.
The quality of the inner cover is better than I expected, and was "fully packed" as they say. Took about two weeks to get, so not too bad. Really is a nice cover. Piecing the conversion together vs. sourcing things in kit form saves a bunch of money, aside from cutting the gear off it's essentially the same (all gaskets are in the gasket kit I already have)  All these parts came out to $35. A viable option I believe for those wanting to save some money and don't mind doing this themselves? Now onto the business of drilling and tapping and assembling the gearbox

[dginfw]

Wow that is a big savings in cost versus buying it in kit form! Good to know

[cafeman]

Wow that is a big savings in cost versus buying it in kit form! Good to know

.         Yes it is. The inner cover was $24 (and shipping was $22) I was concerned that it might be a mess, porous and globbed. The one I got passes scrutiny.. I will be bolting on the gearcase to the crankcase and making sure the bores line up as well as the stator and rotor for clearance.
The outer cover fits to the inner good.

Here's a link to how one person drilled the engine case in order to mount the inner cover, I'll be doing the same:

http://home.comcast.net/~cjayheff/onlinestorage/EStoKS.pdf

[cafeman]

So I referenced the link in the previous post to get a general idea of what to do, but instead of a pvc piece of tubing for a drill bit guide I used a Hillman bronze bushing from Lowes (PN 215745 1/4 x 3/8 x 1) and drilled it out using a 17/64 bit. Used an old valve guide as a depth gauge/stop on the bit to drill to the correct depth into the case, then used an 8mm x 1.25 tap with a drill bit extension so the handle of the tapper cleared the crank shaft and with plenty of oil slowly tapped the holes. Everything lines up and is positioned as it should be.

[DanB]

That's looking very good!

[ace.cafe]

Yep!
Looking very nice.

[cafeman]

Moving slowly at the moment, in the process of installing the motor sans the top-end. I want to install the case/gearbox as a unit but the front down-tube made it difficult to remove during dis-assembly, the tube end fouls the engine cases, and I want it to go in a little easier. Read a post on another forum about cutting the end of the frame at an angle.....so that's what I did. Simple solution:

[ROVERMAN]

I think Cafeman deserves an a+ for cleanliness! .Nice job man.
Roverman.

[cafeman]

I think Cafeman deserves an a+ for cleanliness! .Nice job man.
Roverman.

.   You're referring to no grease under my fingernails, right?!!   

[cafeman]

Wow 4 months and finally a follow-up post! Bad camera, domestic issues and a need to expedite finishing this build resulted in knocking out the assembly and being done with it. Bike is back together, have about a 1200 miles on it so far and she's running strong. Been up in the mountains a few times as well as quite a few spirited rides lately and it's a completely different bike. With all the engine work done (re-phased cams, valves, porting, CR boost, alloy barrel, etc) the gearing changes and the close ratio gear-set it really has transformed it into a strong canyon carver. Just did a 100 mile ride with an FZ1 and a FZ-07 on some of the roads we ride pretty aggressively and aside from the bigger inclines I was able to lead at times and keep a pace that left my buddies very impressed! Have had it up to 80mph indicated with what feels like lots more headroom. Only thing is, there really is no need for it where I ride! I can flog this bike at a pace that I did on all the modern sportbikes I've had in the past...as long as momentum is maintained, it will run "The Pace" http://www.fjrowners.com/pace.html Biggest issue is all this has to be done knowing the brakes are inept for some of the speeds I've run it at! To get into a corner or situation at speed and have only so much braking action adds something entirely different to the ride. Working on setting up a GoPro (and new camera) to capture a ride on this thing asap. Really sounds awesome getting the revs up there

[ERC]

Did a nice job on it Cafe.  ERC

[High On Octane]

Nice work!  Can't wait to see a video of this beast running!