[cafeman]

OK, so splitting cases can be a cinch, up to simply being a matter of improvising with what you have for tools on hand and some forceful persuasion, or  just a royal pain in the ass no matter what you try. So now I'm looking at pullers, what has been used, that works for the task at hand?  There was mention here of one from CMW but I don't see it in their listings.

[ace.cafe]

I usually take off the timing side case half first.
I lay the engine down, drive side down, on a table with a hole in it for the crankshaft to poke thru, or I put some pads on a cinder block and let the crankshaft poke down into the hole in the block.

You need to break the gasket seal first. Use a thin blade knife or putty knife to work into the gasket at the top around the hole for the barrel. As you get it to open up a little, wedge a thin blade screwdriver into that  location to hold it open. Use a little lever action with the screwdriver to start it splitting. Try not to damage the aluminum case halves. You'll need a few screwdrivers or other things to hold the case open in various places, so that it doesn't drop down closed again. Then work around the whole gasket perimeter until it is all separated, and held up in various places with the screwdrivers, all even.
Then, you can carefully lift the case half off. Sometimes it binds on the studs, but lube the studs, and some wiggling will get it off.
This is the easy part.

Then, you have a decent chance that the crank will just lift out of the drive side case half. If it doesn't, then the crank is sticking in the 6305 ball bearing. This can be a bitch to get out, sometimes. Hopefully you won't have that happen, but if it does, let us know and we'll talk you thru it.

[cafeman]

Sounds like I will have to get a little more aggressive vs being gingerly! Love taps won't cut it. Just a little timid with these cases vs others.  Time to break out the twenty pound sledge! JK. That method and maybe soaking gasket with pb blaster and then more levering should do the trick I hope. You know there's probably some merit to a whole manual on the art of "prying". 

[1 Thump]

OK, so splitting cases can be a cinch, up to simply being a matter of improvising with what you have for tools on hand and some forceful persuasion, or  just a royal pain in the ass no matter what you try. So now I'm looking at pullers, what has been used, that works for the task at hand?  There was mention here of one from CMW but I don't see it in their listings.

Are you prepping the bottom end for an upgraded powerplant?

[cafeman]

Are you prepping the bottom end for an upgraded powerplant?

.    Yes sir, something mild not too wild. My big issue is knowing what I really want (trick Ace stuff) yet reality dictating something else. Money is burning on domestic stuff.....anyways, I am doing pretty much all myself.

[barenekd]

CMW should have all the special tools for the engine, however you have to go through a dealer to get them. CMW is a dealer-only company. They sell RE specific parts and tools, etc. NField gear sell directly to the public, but they sell accessories only. CMW used  to sell retail, but the dealers complained that they weren't making any money of parts and stuff because of this policy, which was true, so CMW had to stop selling directly to the customers like any other distributer doesn't.
Bare   

[Kevin Mahoney]

If we are talking about pre-UCE tools, parts etc. NField Gear is  selling any of it. Only the UCE stuff has been restricted. Even at that many common maintenance parts and non factory accessories are available.

[cafeman]

CMW should have all the special tools for the engine, however you have to go through a dealer to get them. CMW is a dealer-only company. They sell RE specific parts and tools, etc. NField gear sell directly to the public, but they sell accessories only. CMW used  to sell retail, but the dealers complained that they weren't making any money of parts and stuff because of this policy, which was true, so CMW had to stop selling directly to the customers like any other distributer doesn't.
Bare

.  Luckily I haven't needed any special tools yet as what I have works and along with some improvising.

[ace.cafe]

.  Luckily I haven't needed any special tools yet as what I have works and along with some improvising.

I have not needed any special tools for disassembly work, with the exception of having a press available for certain operations, like getting the crank out in the circumstances where it is stuck into the 6305. But most times, it comes apart pretty easy.

[cafeman]

I just broke out some wood chisels and handled things like a man.....all apart now...... moral of the story: effeminate use of tools gets you nowhere!

[ace.cafe]

I just broke out some wood chisels and handled things like a man.....all apart now...... moral of the story: effeminate use of tools gets you nowhere!

Glad it came apart for you without serious difficulty.

[cafeman]

Any thoughts on slight enlargement of the bearing oil supply holes in each case, or adding an additional drilling (on the upper half of bosses) or the idea simply redundant? Thinking it would slightly aid cooling and lubing or???

[ace.cafe]

Any thoughts on slight enlargement of the bearing oil supply holes in each case, or adding an additional drilling (on the upper half of bosses) or the idea simply redundant? Thinking it would slightly aid cooling and lubing or???

Just prove the holes to be sure they are clear, and that they go where the are supposed to go. In the past, I have carefully slightly enlarged the oil catch divots at the entries to the holes, but I was unable to quantify whether that did any good or not.

[cafeman]

Enlarging those divots sounds like a simple minimally invasive mod.

[cafeman]

I changed the title to the thread, hopefully I can remember to update periodically for those that like to read this sort of stuff. So it's my first go at working on a Bullet engine, but not on engines or all things mechanical for that matter. A little over 30 years wrenching and improvising. This is a "do is myself" rebuild (aside from valve job and bore/hone) I'll be rebuilding and truing the crank which I'm just finishing up whipping together a truing jig. Doing some checking and fine tuning things and have it dialed in.  The original crank only shows surprisingly .002 out on the drive side and the timing side .0005.....have repeatability with my setup so I know the jig is good to go. I'll add a little more info later about what I'm doing with the engine, but here's a pic of my setup: