[ace.cafe]

When you open the primary case to check for shaft wobble, check both the crankshaft and the transmission shaft. Neither one should have any perceptible wobble.

[flyboy]

Thanks Tom. Do I need to remove the stator too...or, do you think I can get a good feel of it from working the rotor inside the stator?

[ace.cafe]

Thanks Tom. Do I need to remove the stator too...or, do you think I can get a good feel of it from working the rotor inside the stator?

You might be able to.
But it's such an easy matter to just take all that primary stuff out, it might be worth it to get a good handle on those shafts for checking.
Also, this crank wobble test on the drive side will only test for drive side 6305 bearing problems. If it is the main roller, the shaft may still seem supported if the 6305 is not bad. And it won't test for the timing side roller because that's on the other side(unless it is really really badly wiped out).

But, by removing the clutch and primary gear, and checking the transmission shaft for play, at least you can determine if the transmission bearing is bad, which could be causing the sound and vibration.

[flyboy]

Ace, It's positively the gearbox. Stripped down the primary innards to access each shaft. Crank end is tight, trans shaft has play. Not terrible, but definite movement.

Would this be a countershaft bearing on the primary side? Is there a mainshaft bearing in the gearbox?

How should I go about continuing to diagnose this? I'm concerned I may get too deep...should this be done at a shop by someone with trans experience? Or is this not too difficult? I will be receiving (hopefully) the RS shift kit in a week or two, once our host receives, so I'll be getting into the gearbox side soon.
Thanks for the help!
Tim

[ace.cafe]

Ace, It's positively the gearbox. Stripped down the primary innards to access each shaft. Crank end is tight, trans shaft has play. Not terrible, but definite movement.

Would this be a countershaft bearing on the primary side? Is there a mainshaft bearing in the gearbox?

How should I go about continuing to diagnose this? I'm concerned I may get too deep...should this be done at a shop by someone with trans experience? Or is this not too difficult? I will be receiving (hopefully) the RS shift kit in a week or two, once our host receives, so I'll be getting into the gearbox side soon.
Thanks for the help!
Tim

It is most likely the output shaft bearing that is pressed into the case.
It's not real hard to do it, but you have to have the courage to decide to dive into it. You could get the sealed bearing kit, and do the tranny at the same time as the right shift kit. The close ratio gear set would complete the package, if you can afford to do it all at once. The CR gear set gets rid of that huge ratio gap between 3rd and 4th, and makes the bike much more rideable. But it costs a fairly large sum.

Anyway, if you don't feel up to it, and can remove the engine/gearbox from the frame, you can send the gearbox to Chumma to do it for you.

[flyboy]

Thanks for the input.
I think I'd like to dive into it, providing it doesn't need any special shop eqp....ie, press etc. Can it all be done with the gearbox in place?
Is the CR gear set a Hitchcock or Nfield item? Do you know how much $$?
I do have the sealed bearing kit for the 90wt, if that's which you refer to.
As for the output shaft bearing, is that a Nfield thing? Is that the only bearing in there, that can be bad?
Sorry for all the questions. I do appreciate your comments.

[ace.cafe]

The bearings you need are in the sealed bearing kit.
You can do it in the bike, but you will need to use a torch to heat the side of the gearbox case to change that bearing.
The CR kit is an Nfield Gear thing, and you need to check out price and availability with them.