Author Topic: Exhaust port flange  (Read 2962 times)

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MattL

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on: May 05, 2014, 03:54:21 am
I am curious if anyone out there has gone to the trouble of creating an exhaust port mounting flange for the exhaust pipe. I know there are people that have suggested using aluminum flashing or shim stock on the header pipe or a pipe expander, but I have had mediocre success with that. On the other hand, welding on a flange would be quite a challenging modification considering the limited area and access as well as the dangers of warping the head. I haven't consulted with any expert aluminum welders yet to know if this is even a reasonable option.


ace.cafe

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Reply #1 on: May 05, 2014, 05:17:50 am
It can be done, but it isn't necessary, and probably not even desirable.
The normal methods of fitting the header into the head, and bending the mounting brackets to ensure a straight-in fit, can work fine. If the fit of the header into the head is loose, the aluminum wrap method works fine, and I have done it on many Bullets. If there is any problem showing up with these methods, it is 99% sure that the header is not mounted properly, and the brackets need bending to the right shape to ensure that the header goes straight into the head.

If you feel like you have to do it, look up the Royce Creasey article on a non-welded method of doing it.
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azcatfan

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Reply #2 on: May 05, 2014, 05:53:55 am
Strategically applied high temp silicon and a bit of patience can usually do the trick...
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Vince

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Reply #3 on: May 05, 2014, 03:43:02 pm
     Our host has an Exhaust Assembly Paste part # Z90909 that works great. Align the pipe as best you can, then slather the end with the paste and shove it in the head. wipe off any excess before it hardens.


Phlakaton

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Reply #4 on: May 05, 2014, 08:30:21 pm
My experience with paste was crappy.  I swear I waited like 30 hours on that sum bitch to dry - and it still wanted to flake.  In the end --- I used a nice soup can cut to fit and it's still going great 5000 miles later.
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Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #5 on: May 05, 2014, 10:31:38 pm
I mostly agree with Ace. In many ways it does no harm at all except to offend our sense of perfection. Remember it has been like this for 60-70 years. One trick that can help is the get the pipe into the head and then fully tighten the bracket that mounts onto the frame. After it is tight then grab the end of the pipe and pull it up or push it down so that the bolt underneath the frame will slide through it and tighten
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cyrusb

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Reply #6 on: May 06, 2014, 02:30:25 am
 You may be surprised how much you may have to bend the brackets for a good pipe fit. Bend away! ;)
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MattL

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Reply #7 on: May 06, 2014, 01:59:27 pm
OK, Thanks all! I'll give another go at fitting the pipe and lining the header with flashing. Thanks Ace for the article reference. I remember reading that a while back and considering it, but it totally slipped my mind!


c1skout

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Reply #8 on: May 11, 2014, 07:26:04 am
I've run mine over 15,000 miles and tried exhaust paste, hi-temp rtv, bending the mounting points, expanding the end of the headpipe, sectioning and re-fitting the mounting points, aluminum shims, tin shims, and a stub pipe fitted into the exhaust port extending into the headpipe. The best I've gotten is about 1200 miles leak free.


AgentX

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Reply #9 on: May 11, 2014, 10:58:14 am
Would adding some kind of mounting point (maybe as simple as drilling into a fin?) for exhaust springs potentially help with exhaust leaks?

Running the springs with a crush washer of some sort between head and pipe, perhaps?



http://coneeng.com/pdf/motorcycle/Collector%20Components%20PDF.pdf



ace.cafe

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Reply #10 on: May 11, 2014, 12:47:24 pm
Would adding some kind of mounting point (maybe as simple as drilling into a fin?) for exhaust springs potentially help with exhaust leaks?

Running the springs with a crush washer of some sort between head and pipe, perhaps?



http://coneeng.com/pdf/motorcycle/Collector%20Components%20PDF.pdf
I never tried springs on it.
I never needed any other fix after doing the aluminum sheet metal wrapped around the end in the joint.

The heads seem to vary a bit in the size of the hole for the pipe. I think it is more of an issue of fitting around the header to fill up the gap, than  needing to be pushed in harder.
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cafeman

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Reply #11 on: May 11, 2014, 02:10:10 pm
Something similar to this would work. The previous owner drilled holes through the fins, drifted in roll pins, fabricated some 90 degree bolts with ground down flats so they would fit between the fins, and bent some shim stock with a rolled edge. The alloy finned exhaust ring then can be tightened down onto the shims which locks onto the pipe as well as seals things tight. It is rather crude in quality, but I've put almost 6000 miles on the bike (on top of the many miles by previous owner) with no issues.









ace.cafe

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Reply #12 on: May 11, 2014, 02:13:16 pm
That's basically a close variation of the Royce Creasey exhaust clamp mod from that article.
I'm sure that can work fine.
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cafeman

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Reply #13 on: May 11, 2014, 02:17:03 pm


c1skout

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Reply #14 on: May 12, 2014, 03:07:22 am
I like that Royce Creasy mod. I'd been thinking of drilling for roll pins and using them to hold a spring. I should have done something over the winter!