IT's WAR TIME!Just kidding. I usually end up with the oil level towards the top of the sight window on my 2011 G5 and I haven't had a problem with the engine blowing oil out yet.As for the oil quantity, don't believe the book if it still says "2.75 Liter". IMO, that's a misprint.1.75 liters (about 1.8-2 quarts) would be correct for my 500cc UCE and that's after I have tipped it to the right and to the left to get the extra oil out of the side cases.As for the oil, I think any motorcycle specific oil will work. I like the Mobil-1 V-Twin oil synthetic but that's just my opinion.The important thing is to NEVER use one of the automotive oils that are made for just cars.They won't meet the JASO requirement needed to keep the wet plate clutch from slipping.They also don't contain the zinc and phosphorus needed to lube the gears in the transmission.
On some of the UCE bikes, not all, filling to the top of the site glass will cause the bike to spit oil out of the breather and into the air cleaner. And probably leak on to the exhaust, nasty mess to clean up. My bike currently has the site glass totally full and nothing in the air cleaner. Bikes vary. The middle of the site glass seems to be good for any of them. As long as you can see any oil in the site glass you're just fine and don't need to worry about being too low.The manual says 15W-50 semi synthetic. 20W-50 is much easier to find in the States and unless you're regularly riding in sub zero temps you'll be fine with it.I like full synthetic in air cooled engines. They run hot and it doesn't break down as quickly at high temps. That said, any good quality oil, synthetic or not, would probably be just fine as long as you change it regularly. Motorcycle specific oil is better than car oil, better compounds in it for the gears in your tranny. Don't use anything marked "energy conserving". These have friction modifiers that are great for you engine but can cause the clutch to slip. You're not likely to have problems with a small engine like the RE but no sense taking a chance. Then again, you're not likely to find energy conserving oil in 15W50 or 20W50, so really nothing to worry about I like 2000-3000 mile intervals, which is probably more often than needed, but 2 quarts of oil and a filter is cheap enough that I don't care.Lastly, ride more, worry less Scott
I can get some oil level weirdness as well... Maybe not THAT weird though. At a change, I just put in one quart. The finish it off with the second quart, as I watch the sight glass. I bring the level to about 1/3 up the sight glass and call it good. I wind up with just under two quarts put in.
If I lean the bike to the left at all as I'm dismounting it, when I place it on the center stand the oil level in the sight window is often low. If I use the sidestand to support the bike before I get off of it and then place the bike on the center stand, the oil level in the sight window is always shows empty.In fact, this happened a few weeks ago when I went to the local car/bike show. A guy I was talking to said, "You're out of oil." pointing at the sight window.I said, "Not to worry but thanks.", and started the engine.Immediately, the sight window filled up to the correct height.What's happening here is if the bike is leaned to the left at all with the engine shut down, the oil pours thru a hole in the left side of the crankcase and it ends up in the left sidecover. When the bike is raised to rest on the center stand, it looks like there is no oil in the sight window.If this happens, before you panic just start the engine. The spinning primary drive/clutch etc will splash the extra oil back into the sump and the oil level in the sight window will magically raise to its correct level.
Make sure you're changing the oil with the bike on a flat surface, on the centerstand. Because even the slightest difference in the angle of the bike affects the level of oil that is seen on the sight-glass.The capacity of the oil tank is 2.75 litres. However, when you drain the oil, some of it stays in parts of the engine and even the left hand side. Not 100% of it is drained. Typically, members put in around 1.6~1.8 litres of new oil.For best results, go for a 20-30min (if possible) ride to warm the oil enough. Because in the cold weather, having the bike on for 2 mins on idle isn't really going to lighten the oil that much. Then drain the oil as shown in Singh's video and sway the bike left and right to get the maximum oil out. Even back and forth a bit and apply the front brake abruptly. Buy a 2 litre container from any of your local stores and just measure how much of the existing oil came out. Then re-fill the same amount with the new oil back in the engine. Watch the sight-glass. Once you've re-filled the same amount, bring the level of the oil just a bit above the middle of the sight-glass.Start the engine and let it idle for 2 mins or so, then give it a little throttle. Turn it off, wait 5 mins and check level again. Fill with new oil if necessary. These bikes drink very less oil and you should be good to go.Have fun!
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