Author Topic: C5 clutch catches high, can I adjust that?  (Read 3612 times)

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hogdad

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on: April 22, 2014, 02:28:59 pm
Hello,
My 2012 C5 clutch engages 3/4's of the way out when releasing the clutch lever, and I would like to have it engage earlier.

Can I adjust that?

I have adjusted the clutch cable to leave me 3/16ths inch play between the clutch lever and the lever bracket when the lever is all the way out, so I expect the clutch is engaging fully.

Thanks, Barry
2012 Royal Enfield C5 Military
2009 H-D Road Glide FLTR
2003 Triumph Bonneville T100
2000 H-D Electra Glide
1980 H-D FXS Low Rider
1979 H-D XLS Roadster
1978 Triumph Bonneville
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heloego

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Reply #1 on: April 22, 2014, 03:19:28 pm
Hi hogdad.
Your play should only be about half what you currently have.
The Owner's Manual specifies 2-3mm (about 3/32" max).
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hogdad

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Reply #2 on: April 22, 2014, 04:21:19 pm
OK, thanks
2012 Royal Enfield C5 Military
2009 H-D Road Glide FLTR
2003 Triumph Bonneville T100
2000 H-D Electra Glide
1980 H-D FXS Low Rider
1979 H-D XLS Roadster
1978 Triumph Bonneville
1969 BSA Lightning
1966 BSA Lightning


JVS

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Reply #3 on: April 23, 2014, 10:05:05 am
Doesn't reducing the clutch free play actually increase the 'engaging' point? On my UCE, reducing the clutch free play to about 2mm allows for the clutch to engage almost at the last point, even a bit further than 3/4th of the way out. Keeping it at around 3-3.5mm allows for it to engage around 3/4th of the distance.

Am I mistaken or my clutch cable needs to be replaced?
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heloego

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Reply #4 on: April 23, 2014, 02:16:58 pm
I keep my play in the 2-3mm range and other than the occasional "bump" the first time I kick it in 1st I've never had any issues.
'18 Bonneville T-100, Blue/White
'12 C5 Classic
'06 Electra X AVL w/32mm Mikuni and Gold Star system.


BRADEY

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Reply #5 on: April 29, 2014, 07:52:02 am
C5 Clutch actually catches high, and that is the best adjustment for this bike.
Leave it as it came, and get accustomed to it.


hogdad

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Reply #6 on: April 29, 2014, 11:56:39 am
Thanks Bradey
2012 Royal Enfield C5 Military
2009 H-D Road Glide FLTR
2003 Triumph Bonneville T100
2000 H-D Electra Glide
1980 H-D FXS Low Rider
1979 H-D XLS Roadster
1978 Triumph Bonneville
1969 BSA Lightning
1966 BSA Lightning


suitcasejefferson

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Reply #7 on: April 29, 2014, 05:21:21 pm
I like my clutches to engage as far out as possible, while still having enough free play to avoid causing the clutch to slip. I usually adjust the clutch free play to about 1/8" between the lever and the perch. To me, the more space between the engagement point and having the lever pulled in the better. It means the lever has to move more before it starts to engage, which helps ensure complete disengagement when pulled all the way in. I have large hands, so that is not an issue. I have had problems with hydraulic clutches, especially on my former '85 Goldwing, that started to engage with the lever 1/2" away from the grip, which means it was never completely disengaged. Shifting was very notchy. And there were no adjustments.
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Sectorsteve

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Reply #8 on: May 04, 2014, 04:09:46 am
im also having an issue since replacing the clutch cable recently.
on the center stand , no matter where i have the adjustment nuts and i put her in gear, the wheel still turns. Im constantly riding the clutch slightly when in gear with the clutch in...


suitcasejefferson

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Reply #9 on: May 04, 2014, 05:08:26 am
im also having an issue since replacing the clutch cable recently.
on the center stand , no matter where i have the adjustment nuts and i put her in gear, the wheel still turns. Im constantly riding the clutch slightly when in gear with the clutch in...

I've had many bikes that did that, but the wheel would stop easily by a slight tap on the brake or holding my foot against the tire. It's caused by fluid friction (oil) in the wet clutch. About a year ago, my VN750 got to where it would creep forward with the clutch in, even with me sitting on it. Turned out to be warped friction plates.
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Sectorsteve

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Reply #10 on: May 04, 2014, 06:09:57 am
Thanks Suitcase. So it should be ok then :)


mattsz

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Reply #11 on: May 05, 2014, 11:31:37 am
I've had many bikes that did that, but the wheel would stop easily by a slight tap on the brake or holding my foot against the tire. It's caused by fluid friction (oil) in the wet clutch. About a year ago, my VN750 got to where it would creep forward with the clutch in, even with me sitting on it. Turned out to be warped friction plates.

My clutch releases fully, it engages where it should, and I almost never have a false neutral.  But... occasionally as I release it from a stop in first gear, it applies power to the gearbox and wheel in pulses, rather than smoothly.  It happens intermittently... maybe about half the time I use it.  Simple starts on the road aren't a problem, but slow-speed confined-space turns and maneuvering, like in parking areas, are nerve-wracking, with the bike physically surging beneath me, just as if I was gently but rhythmically pulling and releasing the clutch a few times a second.

It's been this way since it was new.  Could warped clutch plates be the cause?


ROVERMAN

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Reply #12 on: May 06, 2014, 04:03:16 am
Mattsz, if you are sure the surging isn't fueling then you may be correct about the clutch plates. Is it  temp sensitive?
Roverman.


mattsz

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Reply #13 on: May 06, 2014, 12:31:13 pm
Roverman-

No, I can't be sure fueling isn't the issue - I'm not sure how I would know.  But I don't think it is.  The engine feels and sounds like it's operating the same whether or not the surge is happening.  And it only surges while I'm actually easing the clutch, during the little window between when the clutch first begins to engage and when the lever is released and the clutch is completely engaged.

It seems to be independent of ambient temperature and engine temperature...


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #14 on: May 06, 2014, 02:51:45 pm
Sounds like the clutch to me.