[bnwhtlw]

Folks,

I am the proud owner of a 2004 RE Bullet Classic.  I love this bike, and I want to keep her happy.  In an effort to know what is normal behavior and what needs investigation I come to you guys. 

The first issue I encountered was the valve rattling when I give it some extra throttle in neutral or when in gear.  Learned that is the tappets doing their thing.  Might need a little adjustments, but from what Ive read, this is fairly normal and desired (within reason of course). 

The next issue I have come upon that I need help with is in the front supension.  When it is at idle, warm or cold the forks vibrate fairly significantly.  If I hold the front brake it is reduced greatly.  If give it a teeny amount of throttle to bring up the RPMs it clears up quite a bit.  Additionally, if I have to get down on the front brake kind of hard, there is a noticeable "Thunk" somewhere in the front of the bike. 

Is this normal? Do I just need to tighten the bearing tension nut a little?  What is the best way to test if you have a loose steering head?

She is at about 4000 miles right now and I know its probably time for a few new things. 

Im thinking Chain, all new cables, and a full fluid change.  Anything else you guys might suggest?

[mikail gransee]

She is at about 4000 miles right now and I know its probably time for a few new things. 
I'm thinking Chain, all new cables, and a full fluid change.  Anything else you guys might suggest?

Sir,
    Full fluid change is the first thing that you should had done after buying the bike; it helps you to get a status of everything and to reset the oil change clock.
Cables can be tricky to replace so do a good inspection of them and how they are routed. Also buy a can of cable lube and lube them up good!- The biggest failure with cables is binding and breaking/stretching from friction because they are dry.
The chain is a very important part of your bike. 2 things I do to see when replacement is required is if the adjust indicator on the wheel has been past, then you are doing damage to your sprocket (if the teeth are sharp than the chain is rubbing-very bad)
and when you spin the rear wheel and check tension, and notice that some spots are really loose while others are tight-then you have uneven stretching and this will give you a jerky ride; a old trick to add speed to your bike when you do replace the chain is to get a rear sprocket with more teeth!
Valve adjustment is very important and will help make starting your bike easier. If you can kick through a compression stroke, your valves are too loose. You should be able to place full body weight on the kicker and it will hold. One thing I do to help those valves stay well is to add a little LEAD Substitute to the gas.
In summary-if you do not have a Manual, get one! it will save you in the end!

[Leonard]

a old trick to add speed to your bike when you do replace the chain is to get a rear sprocket with more teeth!

That might add more low end power but sure won't add any thing on the top end.  Get a larger (18 or 19) front sproket if you are looking for a bit more top end.

Valve adjustment is very important and will help make starting your bike easier. If you can kick through a compression stroke, your valves are too loose. You should be able to place full body weight on the kicker and it will hold.

You can lose compresstion if the valves are adjusted too tight.  If they are loose they are going to make more noise but the compression should be OK.

One thing I do to help those valves stay well is to add a little LEAD Substitute to the gas.

Since the valves are hardened lead substitute probably would have little affect.

In summary-if you do not have a Manual, get one! it will save you in the end!

Good Advice!

[bnwhtlw]

Thanx for the replies! 

Yes I have the factory repair manual as well as Pete Snidal's manual.  So I am good there.  I will check on the adjustment indicator.  My bike already has an 18t.

I love the pull of a new cable that is well lubed and Im pretty sure they are the same ones that came on the bike.  On my bikes I always used tri-flow, what is the best stuff to use to lube the cables? 

As for the fork "thunk" issue, anyone have any insight there?

[Foggy_Auggie]

As far as the forks vibrating at idle - mine does it as I suppose the others also.  Holding in the front brake stops this fork shake.  Nature of the beast.  Holding the front brake at idle also keeps the front fender stays from vibration fatigue and cracking.

As far as the "thunk" when using the front brake at speed - check the steering head bearing tightness by putting the bike on the centerstand, then grabbing a lower fork in each hand (while facing the headlight) and push back.  If back and forth movement is felt, the bearing races need to be tightened.  It will be in your service manual.

Also the front brake backing plate anchor might be loose.

Check all fasteners on the bike for tightness.

[sqf]

I'm by far no expert but my front end does a jig at idle.  I've checked everything out for tightness etc. and all is well.  The thumper just likes to bounce the front tire around while it idles.  I've had to adjust myself more than the bike.  I'm used to the modern everything smooth and constant.  I have found that my noticing bouncing and rattling isn't a problem with the bike.  It is a problem with me not being used to how things of such design operate! 

[mikail gransee]

Thanx for the replies!  

As for the fork "thunk" issue, anyone have any insight there?

Have you thought of checking/changing the fork-oil ?

[mikail gransee]

[quote author=mikail gransee link=topic=1910.msg18924#msg18924 date=1216077107

Glad I used spell check!  

[Adam Gamradt]

I am a new bullet owner, and am curious about this comment.

"If you can kick through a compression stroke, your valves are too loose. You should be able to place full body weight on the kicker and it will hold."

My bike would not hold a valve adjustment and had the head replaced under warranty.

I believe I can kick through a compression, but it's very difficult.  Usually I've done this when I don't have enough juice to start her up.

I'm not mechanically savy (yet!) but am curious about the valves potentially being too loose.  Could someone describe how to make sure I am at the beginning of a compression stroke?

[PhilJ]

That statement is just not right. You'd better be able to kick through a compression stroke.
It' easy to feel. With ignition off, just kick through gently. You'll feel a very easy kick through, unless your already on the compression stroke. It then gets harder to kick through. Try it a few times, there's no mistaking the compression.

[Bankerdanny]

I agree. At a 6.5:1 compression ratio I can push through the compression stroke with my hand.

My father ran 11:1 in his Goldstar in the 60's, according to him at his 150 lbs he could just barely kick it through.

[mikail gransee]

-This must be something differant on the later models; I have a 1995 with only kickstart and when it was easy to kick through the compression-it was also harder to start and when I checked the valves they were loose.  Now after an adjustment I take the kicker to the point when I (165 lbs) can put my full weight on it and it will not move-decompress go a little further and then do a full even stroke and she fires up every time!  I think I need to do some research.

[PhilJ]

If your valves are too loose, there is nothing keeping them from closing or sealing the combustion chamber. If, on the other hand, the valves are overly tight they may not seal and there would be no compression.

[Kevin Mahoney]

I am rather full-figured and can assure you that the only bike that won't kick through with my weight is one that has a fully seized piston.

[sewerman]

bnwhtlw,
   A helpful hint when adjusting the valves.  I have found that the heads of a normal open ended wrench are a tight fit when trying to adjust.  I took two wrenches (forgot the exact sizes right now cause I,m at my office) and ground down the outer edges of the wrenches so that they fit in there.  It cuts way down on the cursing!