Author Topic: cylinder honing  (Read 2316 times)

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RGT

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on: April 13, 2014, 03:51:27 pm
http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm
interesting article I found posted on a HD forum. As a honer I understood that part of the reason for honing was to provide those scratches to hold oil...


Blltrdr

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Reply #1 on: April 13, 2014, 04:36:47 pm
I've read a lot of Pete's articles and find he is a very knowledgeable guy. I get this article and really have to agree with what he is saying. It makes sense to me.
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ace.cafe

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Reply #2 on: April 13, 2014, 05:12:42 pm
I disagree totally with Pete on this, and always have.
New rings = new hone.
No exceptions, ever.

The crosshatch holds oil, but also controls the rotation of the rings around the piston, ensuring a round break-in of the rings. The crosshatch is what breaks the rings in.
« Last Edit: April 13, 2014, 05:15:07 pm by ace.cafe »
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baird4444

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Reply #3 on: April 13, 2014, 05:30:12 pm
I think we are all experts in our own right; just ask us.....
Pete is a very knowledgeable guy but we all choose what is right or wrong and what we believe in...
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High On Octane

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Reply #4 on: April 13, 2014, 05:45:43 pm
Ehh...  Whatever.  Anyone who has had a head gasket leak coolant internally knows just how "glazed" a cylinder can really get.
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Blltrdr

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Reply #5 on: April 13, 2014, 08:12:35 pm
I disagree totally with Pete on this, and always have.
New rings = new hone.
No exceptions, ever.

The crosshatch holds oil, but also controls the rotation of the rings around the piston, ensuring a round break-in of the rings. The crosshatch is what breaks the rings in.

Do you disagree with what he says about thoroughly cleaning the cylinder after the hone is complete Ace?

So in your opinion Ace, installing a new set of cast iron rings without a hone will not work as he describes.

I have know idea except what I read in his article. He claims to have experimented in a classroom doing it both ways and that the most effective way was without the hone. Debating his view is necessary since this article was posted and now everyone has the chance to read it and form some type of an opinion. Have never heard of a re-ring without a hone but if it could be achieved with a better result as Pete claims that would be great. Proof is in the pudding. I need more proof and pudding, cause I'm real hungry........for more knowledge.

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ace.cafe

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Reply #6 on: April 13, 2014, 08:59:41 pm
When in doubt, consult the ring manufacturer for instructions. Typically, they will give dimensions, suggestions for the grit or RA of the hone for the ring materials involved, and gap suggestions.  If you find any of them that recommend putting new rings into a worn smooth bore, then they think it will work on their rings. I haven't talked to any ring maker yet who has prescribed such a method.

Regarding a good cleaning of the  bore to remove any unwanted material in the crosshatch, I have no argument against that.

Cast iron second ring is okay, but I would not use a cast iron top ring, and ductile iron or steel/chrome top ring is more suitable, and pretty much standard practice for the last few decades.

We follow the ring maker's guidelines.
« Last Edit: April 13, 2014, 09:01:49 pm by ace.cafe »
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REpozer

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Reply #7 on: April 13, 2014, 09:39:11 pm
Why would you re-ring a smooth bore cylinder  with out a bore job?
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High On Octane

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Reply #8 on: April 13, 2014, 10:15:04 pm
Why would you re-ring a smooth bore cylinder  with out a bore job?

Sometimes the rings just wear out or break and start to burn oil.  I personally have never re-ringed a motor without honing, and I never do rings without also doing crank bearings.  I've always just hosed down the block real well with brake cleaner and I've never had a motor fail prematurely.   I also agree with about consulting the ring manufacture for their recommendations.  But honestly pretty any set of rings you buy these days have the specs included in the box with the rings telling exactly what to.  I too have never seen these instructions state to NOT hone the cylinder, and most state you need a 45* cross hatch.

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