[suitcasejefferson]

I adjusted my chain at 700 miles. When new, it was at 1.25, after 700 miles it was  just passed 1.75. Could be just because the chain was new, and it will stop doing that, or it could just be a cheap chain. I have gotten some very high mileage out of high quality non O-ring chains. On my XT225 I have 2 non O-ring change. I keep one soaking in oil. I ride it mostly off road, so it gets really dirty. I then take it off, soak it in gasoline overnight, then use a water hose with a spray nozzle to clean all the dirt off it, and immediately drop it into a jug of oil, and put the other one on.

I would go with an O-ring chain on the RE, but I'm not sure I want to change the gearing.

[High On Octane]

From what I've read and seen, the quality control just with in the last 2 years has really made some big progress, especially in the electrical department.  People are reporting that there is no longer the rats nest of wires in the nacelle and also the fuse panel has been upgraded to blade style fuses.

Scottie J

[Royalista]

Electra build 2010, May. The better sprag was fitted starting August 2010.
So I still had the weaker one, which failed at 12000km.
Chain was replaced at 11000 km with the O-ring chain from the classic, which means no need to swap the front sprocket.
Other replacements: starter solenoid.

Currently approaching 30000 km.
Tank started to leak at 24000 km at the rear bolt: no visible cause though, making welding attempts futile. Repaired it with soap and metal paste, assuming a replacement would come swiftly. Just got news: new tank is in (6 months, thank you). Boy, am I glad for soap: it's a tank-saver.

I read the reports about the 'improvements' with mixed feelings. I quite like the push and turn bulbs; and the glass fuses. Doing away with the rats' nest in the nacelle: now that's a good thing. 

My daughter has a Honda which is dead reliable. I prefer my bikes, they live, don't see them as trouble.

[mattsz]

I've got a 2011, and I'm pretty sure I have the post-rat's-nest nacelle wiring (I asked for a pic of a recent bike, because I wanted to compare).  I definitely have blade fuses.

But I think since 2011, the fuel tank construction has been changed, presumably for the better.  Royalista, if you've got a recently manufactured tank, be careful fitting the flanges at the steering head - it may be a looser fit than the original tank...

[Royalista]

I saw a picture of the underside of a new tank and it differs indeed.
Looks sturdier (with ribs), the rear tongues have a hook that will prevent the type of leak mine has, and maybe more improvements to discover.
Would it have the same capacity? Mine holds exactly 14 liters.

Mattsz, do you per chance know the measurements front and rear? Should I fabricate something, or stock on washers?

[mattsz]

I don't have any measurements, but my recollection is that the OEM tank fit the front mounting snugly, and the new tank had a combined gap on both sides of almost 1/4 inch.  Some mounting bushings and parts came with the tank, but I couldn't figure out how to get the old ones out of the frame, nor how to make the new ones fit anyway, so I went with plan B and used washers as spacers inside each flange to fill the gap.

The boys at CMW suggested that I try to use something that might help absorb some vibes, so I included a rubber washer in among my stack of stainless washers on each side.  I had to tighten the mounting bolt down very hard to stop a very noisy vibration, so honestly I don't know how much isolation those two thin rubber washers are really providing.

The rear mount fit the same with no adjustments needed...

[Royalista]

Thanks Mattz,
It will be an interesting activity. 

[caricabasso]

Wow - 30,000 km (almost 20,000 miles) in two years!  And without a chain adjustment?!?  That is something!

I'm curious, did you replace the automatic decompressor with a manual one?  If not, is the engine difficult to start without one, and are you worried about damage to the starter?

When the weather is good I use the bike to go to work.
It 'sa way to make the day more beautiful.
I removed the automatic decompressor but I did not notice the engine starting difficulties.
The important thing is to let the gas idle and the engine starts immediately.
I think the lack of the decompressor is not detrimental to the life of the starter motor.
Certainly the piston in time of peace is not in the compression phase, then the starter motor fails to turn the crankshaft for almost a lap without effort, then the inertia of the counterweight fornische the right energy to start.

[barenekd]

Disconnecting the autocompressor raises the chance of the engine kicking back while it's starting. that can be the death knell of the Sprag clutch! The engine should be a lot easier to kick start without it though. Just be sure to push it through TDC before you kick.
Bare