[Dave1]

Thanks for all the help guys. The guy that balances and trues the cranks isn't a Japanese specialist and I didn't say that. He is a balancing and truing specialist that is used by race teams...As I explained. He is also apparently quite old, so I suspect has worked on a lot of British stuff in his time, which hopefully includes RE's. I was advised not to build any part of the crank, or he will want exact measurements from me, that he is very precise about his builds and its best to let him do it from scratch. But of course when I have the parts here I will phone him to make sure. And mention all the things you guys have said. I will of course consider Paul Henshaw. As I have heard of him before.

I will now support the carb Blltrdr, thanks for the heads up. Never fun spannering by the side of the road.

[ace.cafe]

That's good Dave.

I don't mean to cast any aspersions on the other man, and I don't even know him.

I do know Paul, and he is one of the leading racers in the British VMCC circuit,  and he races on a Bullet. He's very experienced with all facets of Bullet work.

[Dave1]

Thanks Ace, I didn't know that. I will of course phone Paul if I can find his number.  I would rather use a RE specialist to be honest. The only thing that slightly puts me off, is I would have to use a courier to send my crank and said parts to him. How tough are cranks? If it got handled rough by a courier would it cause me trouble? Or am I worrying unnecessarily?

[ace.cafe]

You are in the UK, right?

Paul owns Performance Classics in south Wales.
Surely that cannot be that far from anywhere in the UK.

He's a member of this forum, and you can send him a PM. Just look up Bullet Whisperer in the search function, and send him a message.
He's also a member at the Midlands Bullets web forum in the UK.

[Dave1]

Yes I'm in the UK. And my RE is my only form of transport. Wales is atleast 4 hours away from me in a car!

I've just found his website, with phone number.

[Dave1]

Right guys, had another go today at getting this carb up and running. Within 15 minutes I had the bike idling better than ever! And the responsiveness and raise in rpm even at standstill is definitely better!

Come on air filter hurry up and get here! Want to ride, missing two wheels and want to get on and do the plug chops!

[Dave1]

Hello, sorry to drag up an old thread. But as I left my bike it was running, idling. As you will see in this thread.

So I fitted a air filter. My RE fired briefly then stopped. I took the spark plug out and it was wet. Wiped the spark plug dry, repeated this process quite a lot. I did get the bike to fire a few times more.

Then I screwed out the air mixture screw. To lean the mixture out. The plug is now dry. But the bike does not start.

I checked the spark plug. It is getting a spark.

The carb is fitted with a 185 main jet, P4 needle jet, 30 pilot jet.
Bike has an open high level trial exhaust, and KN air filter.

[Arizoni]

It sounds like the air filter was very restrictive.

If you applied much more than a very light mist of the oil K&N sells for their filters, you probably over did it.  I know, I did that to the K&N filter I bought from NFG.

If you overoiled it, use the K&N cleaner or spray the filter element with a large dose of Disk Brake Cleaner to remove the oil.  Then, try it again by applying a very light mist of oil.

[High On Octane]

It sounds like the air filter was very restrictive.

If you applied much more than a very light mist of the oil K&N sells for their filters, you probably over did it.  I know, I did that to the K&N filter I bought from NFG.

If you overoiled it, use the K&N cleaner or spray the filter element with a large dose of Disk Brake Cleaner to remove the oil.  Then, try it again by applying a very light mist of oil.

+1

[Dave1]

Thanks chaps will bear this in mind, although I did try without the air filter, and it still didn't start.

The fuel is a few months old, I wouldnt t think that is long enough for it to go stale. But I will get some fresh fuel on the safe side.

[ROVERMAN]

Drain the fuel, start with fresh. Also a fresh plug!

[dginfw]

Ok,  bumping an old thread with a question:

New TM32 install, with a 30 pilot jet, bike is hard to start, but once running idles ok.  Will not start with choke, and bumping up the choke when idling kills the motor.  Pilot jet too rich?  I have a 27.5 pilot but wanted to ask before i tore into the carb again.

Edit:  i forgot to mention I have the P6 needle jet, and Ace air can and manifold,  and aftermarket header and short silencer

[ace.cafe]

Usually you can unscrew the air bleed screw a little bit at a time until it starts better. If you need to go more than 3 turns out, then try the 27.5 and start with the air bleed screw further in, and adjust until it gets where you like it. In most cases, the 30 pilot is good, but some bikes might like the 27.5. If it likes the 27.5, it might also prefer a P4 needle jet.

[Dave1]

Sorry to drag a really old post up. But I'm getting really f-cki-g mad with this carburettor now. Prepare for a rant.

I'm not new to messing with bikes, in fact I've messed with them since a teenager, I used to race. I'm nothing like new to carbs. I've worked with Dell'orto, Dell'orto copies, Amals, Micarb.

Well we all know the Micarbs can have there problems. But I never expected it from a flipping Japanese genuine Mikuni. 

I've never had problems with Dell'orto or Amals. But the idle circuit ( pilot jet ). Just wont fucking do what it is suppose to do on this bleeding TM32-1!!!!! I've tried everything. Checked for air leaks ( none, not even slightly ). I've tried 27.5, 30, and 32.5 pilot jets. They all spirt back through the carb, some worse than others. I can barely get a definite increase in revs when adjusting the pilot screw. I've tried the carb with and without the air filter...No real difference.

I am this close to buying an Amal. I've already made one phone call with my local classic bike dealership and parts specialist. If it wasn't for the fact the Mk1 Amal Concentric Premier was out of stock in 32mm I probably would have already ordered one.

Remember this is for a Asbo 19.

[ace.cafe]

The two most common causes of spitting at startup or tick over are air leak or ignition timing too advanced.
If you are at sea level, a 30 pilot should do.
Get the bike running, warm it up, and find the fastest tick over by adjusting the air bleed screw. Then, set the tick over speed to your preference with the large idle screw.  If it still spits, screw the air bleed screw IN a quarter turn at a time until it gets better.