[Dave1]

Hi guys, can I please ask. How many turns out on the air mixture screw out did you guys use?

When setting your carb up after fitting a brand new carb?



I've tried 1, 1.5, 2 turns out and it fires idles for maybe 4-5 beats then cuts out.

[tooseevee]

Hi guys, can I please ask. How many turns out on the air mixture screw out did you guys use?

When setting your carb up after fitting a brand new carb?



I've tried 1, 1.5, 2 turns out and it fires idles for maybe 4-5 beats then cuts out.

            Need to know more:

                      Which engine?

                      What exhaust? Stock or free-flow?

                      What intake? Stock or free-flow?

                       What jets are in the carb now?

                        How was it running beFORE the carb change?

                        With those questions answered, the carb experts (I'm not) might help you. Just a wild-ass guess would be that it's air-starved which means too rich which means you might try the next smaller pilot jet & see what that does. The TM 32 comes with a #45 pilot. You may have to go way smaller than that.

                       

[Dave1]

My set up is in my other carb thread labelled engine hunting.

[ace.cafe]

Turn up the idle speed a bit. Then turn the air screw in or out until you find the highest idle speed you can find with the air screw. Then set the desired final idle speed again using the idle speed screw.
There is no magic setting for all TM32 carbs. It is specific to your bike . I start at 1.5 turns out, but I never actually end up there. You have to tune it in.

[Dave1]

Yes that is the procedure I was using all afternoon Ace. Thing is it doesn't idle at all, not allowing the bike to warm up to make fine adjustment. I am however waiting on the air filter to turn up (K&N pod). So it was probably way to lean. I am now going to wait for the air filter to arrive before commencing again with the adjustments.

[ace.cafe]

If you think it is way too lean then try the richer pilot jet. Just work with the carb and get comfortable with it. The air filter will only make a minor difference which will be well within the ability of the air screw to fine tune.
Tune it in with the filter off, and then pit the filter on later.

I am assuming that you have the proper size manifold for a TM32  on there, and there are no air leaks anywhere.

[Dave1]

There shouldn't be any air leaks on there no. I used the Mikuni metal spacer and rubber manifold to mount the carb, between the metal spacer and cylinder head I cut out a brown wrapping paper gasket.

[Dave1]

Having been sat here thinking, why couldn't i get the bike going after spending some considerable time on it this afternoon, and thinking over your posts.

When I was adjusting the air bleed mixture screw in the afternoon. It was spitting back through the carb indicating a lean mixture. I thought at the time screwing the air bleed mixture screw out richened the mixture. But the bike wouldn't even start when I thought I was richening the mixture.

So just a few minutes ago I thought to check that. It turns out screwing it out leans it out even more. Which may explain why it didn't even try to start after doing this. So tomorrow I will try again and actually richen the fuel mixture.

[ace.cafe]

Yes, it is an air bleed screw.
Unscrewing it allows more air to come in, thus leaning the mixture. And vice versa.

You'll get it. Just takes some playing around with it to get accustomed to it. It is a realy good carb. You won't believe how good it is , once you have it dialed in.
On a Fireball, it's like a dream.

[Blltrdr]

There shouldn't be any air leaks on there no. I used the Mikuni metal spacer and rubber manifold to mount the carb, between the metal spacer and cylinder head I cut out a brown wrapping paper gasket.

You need to brace the carb using that manifold. I had one before and wouldn't recommend using one unless braced. The rubber is not as strong as a piece of radiator hose. Unless you have a solid mount like the PWK you will need some sort of brace. A simple hook wire under the air filter clamp attached to a fuel tank mount will do the trick.

[High On Octane]

This is on the to-do list for the Blackhawk.  I'm pretty disappointed with the new Amal.

Scottie J

[Dave1]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I will take a photo of my mounts. As I'm not aware from reading this forum or else where. That many people are aware that you can get the full mounting kit from Mikuni for RE especially in reference to the metal spacer. I've not seen any photos with the metal spacers either on normal none fireball bikes.

When I looked at the construction of the rubber mount. It has a metal insert in it. So maybe it is metal coated in rubber? With an O ring built in to help sealing. Did yours have this Blltrdr?

I do plan on Fireballing my Bullet. Its on the to do list. That is why I also went with the TM32-1.

After the bike is running and back on the road. I will be getting the parts together to build a strong bottom end. The good thing is about this, I phoned the Suzuki Cresent Racing team. They are a very friendly bunch. Asked where the best place is to get my crank trued and balance is. They told me a guys name and gave me his number. And its cheap too, they recon for my purposes it should be no more than £70! That Suzuki Racing team use him and speedway racing teams for there engine builds! Comes highly recommended! Saving compared to Hitchcocks and others will be under half price. The guy that does the crank is local too.

[ace.cafe]

You won't need to have it balanced. If you use the available rods . We use Carrillo. The change in rod mass is done in such a way that the balance factor is moved to a better percentage for high performance use.  Of course, this infers that our lightweight Ace piston is used. The flywheels will need no balancing unless you lighten them. It is also very important that they know how to defeat the OPR valve in the timing side crankshaft, and that they understand the proper interference fit of the new crankpin into the flywheel eyes, and that the press is straight so that the flywheel eyes are not broached by the harder crankpin during the pressing operation. These are things which may not be known by Japanese bike mechanics. Cheaper is rarely better, but sometimes it can suffice if you have the knowledge to coach them.

I would recommend that you seek out Paul Henshaw at Performance Classics in south Wales. He is known as Bullet Whisperer here on this forum. He knows how to handle Bullet crank and rod work in your country.

[High On Octane]

......I would recommend that you seek out Paul Henshaw at Performance Classics in south Wales. He is known as Bullet Whisperer here on this forum. He knows how to handle Bullet crank and rod work in your country.

+1

[Blltrdr]

When I looked at the construction of the rubber mount. It has a metal insert in it. So maybe it is metal coated in rubber? With an O ring built in to help sealing. Did yours have this Blltrdr?

I do plan on Fireballing my Bullet. Its on the to do list. That is why I also went with the TM32-1.

Dave I used the same Mikuni mount. My thought was that it was a simple design and also drew the carb in closer which would give a little more clearance for the throttle cable. Well it did work but I thought it would hold up fine. The key word is, "hold up". I did not support the carb with a wire or brace and over a period of time the rubber flange ripped away from the metal leaving me high and dry many miles from home.

If you Fireball your engine there is a custom carb flange to go along with your head work. Like on a stock engine you will be using a heavy duty hose section to mount your carb to your new Fireball flange.

My point to all this, is not to let your carb hang out there with no support or you may find yourself hanging out there with no support.

[Dave1]

Thanks for all the help guys. The guy that balances and trues the cranks isn't a Japanese specialist and I didn't say that. He is a balancing and truing specialist that is used by race teams...As I explained. He is also apparently quite old, so I suspect has worked on a lot of British stuff in his time, which hopefully includes RE's. I was advised not to build any part of the crank, or he will want exact measurements from me, that he is very precise about his builds and its best to let him do it from scratch. But of course when I have the parts here I will phone him to make sure. And mention all the things you guys have said. I will of course consider Paul Henshaw. As I have heard of him before.

I will now support the carb Blltrdr, thanks for the heads up. Never fun spannering by the side of the road.

[ace.cafe]

That's good Dave.

I don't mean to cast any aspersions on the other man, and I don't even know him.

I do know Paul, and he is one of the leading racers in the British VMCC circuit,  and he races on a Bullet. He's very experienced with all facets of Bullet work.

[Dave1]

Thanks Ace, I didn't know that. I will of course phone Paul if I can find his number.  I would rather use a RE specialist to be honest. The only thing that slightly puts me off, is I would have to use a courier to send my crank and said parts to him. How tough are cranks? If it got handled rough by a courier would it cause me trouble? Or am I worrying unnecessarily?

[ace.cafe]

You are in the UK, right?

Paul owns Performance Classics in south Wales.
Surely that cannot be that far from anywhere in the UK.

He's a member of this forum, and you can send him a PM. Just look up Bullet Whisperer in the search function, and send him a message.
He's also a member at the Midlands Bullets web forum in the UK.

[Dave1]

Yes I'm in the UK. And my RE is my only form of transport. Wales is atleast 4 hours away from me in a car!

I've just found his website, with phone number.

[Dave1]

Right guys, had another go today at getting this carb up and running. Within 15 minutes I had the bike idling better than ever! And the responsiveness and raise in rpm even at standstill is definitely better!

Come on air filter hurry up and get here! Want to ride, missing two wheels and want to get on and do the plug chops!

[Dave1]

Hello, sorry to drag up an old thread. But as I left my bike it was running, idling. As you will see in this thread.

So I fitted a air filter. My RE fired briefly then stopped. I took the spark plug out and it was wet. Wiped the spark plug dry, repeated this process quite a lot. I did get the bike to fire a few times more.

Then I screwed out the air mixture screw. To lean the mixture out. The plug is now dry. But the bike does not start.

I checked the spark plug. It is getting a spark.

The carb is fitted with a 185 main jet, P4 needle jet, 30 pilot jet.
Bike has an open high level trial exhaust, and KN air filter.

[Arizoni]

It sounds like the air filter was very restrictive.

If you applied much more than a very light mist of the oil K&N sells for their filters, you probably over did it.  I know, I did that to the K&N filter I bought from NFG.

If you overoiled it, use the K&N cleaner or spray the filter element with a large dose of Disk Brake Cleaner to remove the oil.  Then, try it again by applying a very light mist of oil.

[High On Octane]

It sounds like the air filter was very restrictive.

If you applied much more than a very light mist of the oil K&N sells for their filters, you probably over did it.  I know, I did that to the K&N filter I bought from NFG.

If you overoiled it, use the K&N cleaner or spray the filter element with a large dose of Disk Brake Cleaner to remove the oil.  Then, try it again by applying a very light mist of oil.

+1

[Dave1]

Thanks chaps will bear this in mind, although I did try without the air filter, and it still didn't start.

The fuel is a few months old, I wouldnt t think that is long enough for it to go stale. But I will get some fresh fuel on the safe side.

[ROVERMAN]

Drain the fuel, start with fresh. Also a fresh plug!

[dginfw]

Ok,  bumping an old thread with a question:

New TM32 install, with a 30 pilot jet, bike is hard to start, but once running idles ok.  Will not start with choke, and bumping up the choke when idling kills the motor.  Pilot jet too rich?  I have a 27.5 pilot but wanted to ask before i tore into the carb again.

Edit:  i forgot to mention I have the P6 needle jet, and Ace air can and manifold,  and aftermarket header and short silencer

[ace.cafe]

Usually you can unscrew the air bleed screw a little bit at a time until it starts better. If you need to go more than 3 turns out, then try the 27.5 and start with the air bleed screw further in, and adjust until it gets where you like it. In most cases, the 30 pilot is good, but some bikes might like the 27.5. If it likes the 27.5, it might also prefer a P4 needle jet.

[Dave1]

Sorry to drag a really old post up. But I'm getting really f-cki-g mad with this carburettor now. Prepare for a rant.

I'm not new to messing with bikes, in fact I've messed with them since a teenager, I used to race. I'm nothing like new to carbs. I've worked with Dell'orto, Dell'orto copies, Amals, Micarb.

Well we all know the Micarbs can have there problems. But I never expected it from a flipping Japanese genuine Mikuni. 

I've never had problems with Dell'orto or Amals. But the idle circuit ( pilot jet ). Just wont fucking do what it is suppose to do on this bleeding TM32-1!!!!! I've tried everything. Checked for air leaks ( none, not even slightly ). I've tried 27.5, 30, and 32.5 pilot jets. They all spirt back through the carb, some worse than others. I can barely get a definite increase in revs when adjusting the pilot screw. I've tried the carb with and without the air filter...No real difference.

I am this close to buying an Amal. I've already made one phone call with my local classic bike dealership and parts specialist. If it wasn't for the fact the Mk1 Amal Concentric Premier was out of stock in 32mm I probably would have already ordered one.

Remember this is for a Asbo 19.

[ace.cafe]

The two most common causes of spitting at startup or tick over are air leak or ignition timing too advanced.
If you are at sea level, a 30 pilot should do.
Get the bike running, warm it up, and find the fastest tick over by adjusting the air bleed screw. Then, set the tick over speed to your preference with the large idle screw.  If it still spits, screw the air bleed screw IN a quarter turn at a time until it gets better.

[Adrian II]

Long time no see, Dave!

Does ASBO 19's engine still run on points ignition?

Assuming it is carb and not ignition-related this might not help, but I do have a very low-mileage Pazon Sure Fire kit (Better than the Boyer, it only came off ASBO 12 because I fitted the magneto, it worked very well), this is up for grabs if you are interested.

I also have the Dell'Orto PHF32 off my old Electra-X (worked fine, it was replaced by a bigger Mikuni!), if the TM32 really won't play ball. 

Drop me a message if you're interested, I assume you're still local. Both items will be **cheap** if they're staying in the family.

A.

[Dave1]

Ace, I've tried everything you mention ten times over, bar retarding the timing. I have even check some of the ignition wiring thinking it may be an ignition issue. Since yesterday I even tried a 25 pilot jet. Which ran worse. Put a 30 pilot jet back into it, and spent ages with it. Got back to running really decent. But on the ride home last night. It still coughed and cut out. Its a shame really because when I get past the idle circuit the bike pulls and goes very well.

Adrian thanks for the kind offer. Yes Paul retro fitted points when the engine was asbo'ed. It has been running fine generally. I think I will retard the timing ever so slightly. I may take you up on the Sure fire kit.

How did you mount the Dell-Orto carb?

Will drop you a pm.

[Adrian II]

Dave,

Look out for an e-mail from my alter-ego's spam trap account, in case you don't know why Eddie Splinge is!

A.

[ace.cafe]

Ace, I've tried everything you mention ten times over, bar retarding the timing. I have even check some of the ignition wiring thinking it may be an ignition issue. Since yesterday I even tried a 25 pilot jet. Which ran worse. Put a 30 pilot jet back into it, and spent ages with it. Got back to running really decent. But on the ride home last night. It still coughed and cut out. Its a shame really because when I get past the idle circuit the bike pulls and goes very well.

Adrian thanks for the kind offer. Yes Paul retro fitted points when the engine was asbo'ed. It has been running fine generally. I think I will retard the timing ever so slightly. I may take you up on the Sure fire kit.

How did you mount the Dell-Orto carb?

Will drop you a pm.

Dave,
I don't know what the issue is with your TM, but I can assure you that the carb is very compatible with the bike. There are over 40 Fireballs out there with those carbs on them. Many other Bullets of various stages of tune with them too.
I am pretty certain that it can be made to work for your application.

[Dave1]

Thanks for your perseverance. I have got it sorted for now. Back on the 30 pilot jet nicely dialled in, and the exhaust fumes smell rich at idle.

The main problem in the end turned out to be the points. The points gap had closed up and wasn't separating enough. Bikes running champion now.

My bike still has the standard quality cams in them ( Bullet Whispers description ). I was thinking to install some of Henry's R cams or some of your magnum cams Ace, Ace do you have some of your cams ready to go and if so what price? I have to bear in mind import duty and taxes.

[ace.cafe]

Thanks for your perseverance. I have got it sorted for now. Back on the 30 pilot jet nicely dialled in, and the exhaust fumes smell rich at idle.

The main problem in the end turned out to be the points. The points gap had closed up and wasn't separating enough. Bikes running champion now.

My bike still has the standard quality cams in them ( Bullet Whispers description ). I was thinking to install some of Henry's R cams or some of your magnum cams Ace, Ace do you have some of your cams ready to go and if so what price? I have to bear in mind import duty and taxes.

Hi Dave,
Get them from Henry. It will be much cheaper than overseas purchase, shipping and VAT, and of similar design. The inlet valve closes much later than stock, so you may want to bump up the compression a bit.

[Dave1]

Thanks, ordered some R cams from Henry. The compression of my engine is 9.5:1.