[Dave1]

Hi guys, can I please ask. How many turns out on the air mixture screw out did you guys use?

When setting your carb up after fitting a brand new carb?



I've tried 1, 1.5, 2 turns out and it fires idles for maybe 4-5 beats then cuts out.

[tooseevee]

Hi guys, can I please ask. How many turns out on the air mixture screw out did you guys use?

When setting your carb up after fitting a brand new carb?



I've tried 1, 1.5, 2 turns out and it fires idles for maybe 4-5 beats then cuts out.

            Need to know more:

                      Which engine?

                      What exhaust? Stock or free-flow?

                      What intake? Stock or free-flow?

                       What jets are in the carb now?

                        How was it running beFORE the carb change?

                        With those questions answered, the carb experts (I'm not) might help you. Just a wild-ass guess would be that it's air-starved which means too rich which means you might try the next smaller pilot jet & see what that does. The TM 32 comes with a #45 pilot. You may have to go way smaller than that.

                       

[Dave1]

My set up is in my other carb thread labelled engine hunting.

[ace.cafe]

Turn up the idle speed a bit. Then turn the air screw in or out until you find the highest idle speed you can find with the air screw. Then set the desired final idle speed again using the idle speed screw.
There is no magic setting for all TM32 carbs. It is specific to your bike . I start at 1.5 turns out, but I never actually end up there. You have to tune it in.

[Dave1]

Yes that is the procedure I was using all afternoon Ace. Thing is it doesn't idle at all, not allowing the bike to warm up to make fine adjustment. I am however waiting on the air filter to turn up (K&N pod). So it was probably way to lean. I am now going to wait for the air filter to arrive before commencing again with the adjustments.

[ace.cafe]

If you think it is way too lean then try the richer pilot jet. Just work with the carb and get comfortable with it. The air filter will only make a minor difference which will be well within the ability of the air screw to fine tune.
Tune it in with the filter off, and then pit the filter on later.

I am assuming that you have the proper size manifold for a TM32  on there, and there are no air leaks anywhere.

[Dave1]

There shouldn't be any air leaks on there no. I used the Mikuni metal spacer and rubber manifold to mount the carb, between the metal spacer and cylinder head I cut out a brown wrapping paper gasket.

[Dave1]

Having been sat here thinking, why couldn't i get the bike going after spending some considerable time on it this afternoon, and thinking over your posts.

When I was adjusting the air bleed mixture screw in the afternoon. It was spitting back through the carb indicating a lean mixture. I thought at the time screwing the air bleed mixture screw out richened the mixture. But the bike wouldn't even start when I thought I was richening the mixture.

So just a few minutes ago I thought to check that. It turns out screwing it out leans it out even more. Which may explain why it didn't even try to start after doing this. So tomorrow I will try again and actually richen the fuel mixture.

[ace.cafe]

Yes, it is an air bleed screw.
Unscrewing it allows more air to come in, thus leaning the mixture. And vice versa.

You'll get it. Just takes some playing around with it to get accustomed to it. It is a realy good carb. You won't believe how good it is , once you have it dialed in.
On a Fireball, it's like a dream.

[Blltrdr]

There shouldn't be any air leaks on there no. I used the Mikuni metal spacer and rubber manifold to mount the carb, between the metal spacer and cylinder head I cut out a brown wrapping paper gasket.

You need to brace the carb using that manifold. I had one before and wouldn't recommend using one unless braced. The rubber is not as strong as a piece of radiator hose. Unless you have a solid mount like the PWK you will need some sort of brace. A simple hook wire under the air filter clamp attached to a fuel tank mount will do the trick.

[High On Octane]

This is on the to-do list for the Blackhawk.  I'm pretty disappointed with the new Amal.

Scottie J

[Dave1]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I will take a photo of my mounts. As I'm not aware from reading this forum or else where. That many people are aware that you can get the full mounting kit from Mikuni for RE especially in reference to the metal spacer. I've not seen any photos with the metal spacers either on normal none fireball bikes.

When I looked at the construction of the rubber mount. It has a metal insert in it. So maybe it is metal coated in rubber? With an O ring built in to help sealing. Did yours have this Blltrdr?

I do plan on Fireballing my Bullet. Its on the to do list. That is why I also went with the TM32-1.

After the bike is running and back on the road. I will be getting the parts together to build a strong bottom end. The good thing is about this, I phoned the Suzuki Cresent Racing team. They are a very friendly bunch. Asked where the best place is to get my crank trued and balance is. They told me a guys name and gave me his number. And its cheap too, they recon for my purposes it should be no more than £70! That Suzuki Racing team use him and speedway racing teams for there engine builds! Comes highly recommended! Saving compared to Hitchcocks and others will be under half price. The guy that does the crank is local too.

[ace.cafe]

You won't need to have it balanced. If you use the available rods . We use Carrillo. The change in rod mass is done in such a way that the balance factor is moved to a better percentage for high performance use.  Of course, this infers that our lightweight Ace piston is used. The flywheels will need no balancing unless you lighten them. It is also very important that they know how to defeat the OPR valve in the timing side crankshaft, and that they understand the proper interference fit of the new crankpin into the flywheel eyes, and that the press is straight so that the flywheel eyes are not broached by the harder crankpin during the pressing operation. These are things which may not be known by Japanese bike mechanics. Cheaper is rarely better, but sometimes it can suffice if you have the knowledge to coach them.

I would recommend that you seek out Paul Henshaw at Performance Classics in south Wales. He is known as Bullet Whisperer here on this forum. He knows how to handle Bullet crank and rod work in your country.

[High On Octane]

......I would recommend that you seek out Paul Henshaw at Performance Classics in south Wales. He is known as Bullet Whisperer here on this forum. He knows how to handle Bullet crank and rod work in your country.

+1

[Blltrdr]

When I looked at the construction of the rubber mount. It has a metal insert in it. So maybe it is metal coated in rubber? With an O ring built in to help sealing. Did yours have this Blltrdr?

I do plan on Fireballing my Bullet. Its on the to do list. That is why I also went with the TM32-1.

Dave I used the same Mikuni mount. My thought was that it was a simple design and also drew the carb in closer which would give a little more clearance for the throttle cable. Well it did work but I thought it would hold up fine. The key word is, "hold up". I did not support the carb with a wire or brace and over a period of time the rubber flange ripped away from the metal leaving me high and dry many miles from home.

If you Fireball your engine there is a custom carb flange to go along with your head work. Like on a stock engine you will be using a heavy duty hose section to mount your carb to your new Fireball flange.

My point to all this, is not to let your carb hang out there with no support or you may find yourself hanging out there with no support.