[Professor]

Go to Race Tech Suspension. Click on Vintage Bikes. Go down to Brake Arcing. Click on more information and you'll see how they do it.

[Ducati Scotty]

You won't need to remove the tire, for an Enfield you can just send the drum/sprocket

You can have any machine shop check that the drum is round and centered to the bearing.  You can arc shoes to the drum yourself.  You can looki it up but here is the basic procedure:
1) Remove the drum.
2) Put chalk on the shoes, all over them.
3) Seat the brakes in the drum and pull the brake lever, rotate the brakes a little in the drum.
4) Remove the brake mechanism.  Anywhere you see the chalk rubbed off is a high spot.  Use a sanding block and medium sand paper to sand that spot down.
5) Repeat steps 2 through 4 until the brake comes out with no chalk.  That means the entire shoe is making contact.

This procedure gets the whole shoe hitting the drum for optimal contact.  They do some more work at the shop, like cutting grooves to improve performance, but this alone will make your brakes very good.

All that said, I think you have the wrong cam bolt.  Call or e-mail Hitchcocks and askDo you have someone local with an RE that you could compare to?  Maybe just take it to the shop and compare to a new one?

Scott

[Professor]

If you do it with just the drum and sprocket, then lace the wheel, would lacing pull the drum out of round?

[Ducati Scotty]

On this bike, not at all.  The drum is not connected to the spokes.  On any other bike, maybe a little.  It would make sense to do it with the wheel already laced.  I suspect they do it with a lace wheel more because people don't want to unlace a wheel to have it done rather than the spokes affecting roundness of the drum.

Scott

[Professor]

Got it.

[GreenMachine]

Singh5:  I don't have a UCE parts manual to compare the actual part list to see if G5/C5 uses the same parts for their rear drum brake assembly as the older machines...That being said, the parts that Sectorsteve purchased should had come with a part number listed on the bag and could be verified by anyone that has the newer complete parts list... I just as confused and would like to help him but we have to know if he's has the right parts....

[Sectorsteve]

thanks heaps guys for your input.
im pretty sure the drum is ok, because thats a sprocket i put on in november and it was sweet til january.
Ive nutted it down to 2 things : firstly im a retard and had the brake arm on backwards.(instead of the pull hole for brake rod on inside i had it on outside) This is a major thing because everytime i applied the brake it pulled the brake arm across a little.
secondly that new cam bolt just isnt long enough to get good purchase however ive checked it now after working on it yesterday. i stuck so much loctite on it and its solid and the arm is moving in a straight line and not perpendicular anymore. this isnt ideal though and i know that loctite will brake its seal and the brake arm will move side to side again. hopefully hitchcocks will send me the right bit soon.

[Arizoni]

All of the parts and the part numbers for the rear brake assembly are exactly the same for both the C5 and the G5

The Operating Cam part number is 580363.

The Shoe Pin part number is 580362.  This is the part that the lower part of the shoes pivot on and its m12 X 1.25 threaded end extends outward from the backing plate and passes thru the elongated hole in the swing arm.

The "Bushing" that guides the Operating Cam is part number 145088.

I'm guessing but the Bushing part number looks like a old one.  That tells me the 500xxx series numbers are probably newly designed for the UCE motorcycles and the old parts might not fit/work correctly.

[Sectorsteve]

actually looking at Singhs picture there of his brake arm and he has it the way round i had it...
must be the dodgy bushing bolt length. i need length...!

[Arizoni]

Hoping it helps, here is a picture of my rear brake on my 2011 G5.

Looking at it I notice it has two nuts holding on the arm and the brake wear indicator pointer.
There is no way that setup could be used with the length of the threaded part of your brake cam and I notice that the Parts Manual only lists one nut in that area.
Maybe the G5 is using a different part number cam?

Anyway, hope this helps you.

[Sectorsteve]

Thanks arizoni. Mines a c5 and the old bolt had 2 nuts. Hitchcocks sent me a shorter cam bolt. Barely houses 1 nut.

[Ducati Scotty]

In addition to holding the little indicator arrow, don't those two nuts lock each othe in place?

Scott

[Sectorsteve]

Yeah mate. Its a pretty important thing. You need that extra nut

[suitcasejefferson]

The rear brake has been really mushy on my 2013 B5 since I bought it. I don't consider it a safety issue, but it still feels like something is not right. Then I saw this on Youtube  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHRm_t_8DYE  I noticed you had commented on it. I don't feel what that guy did was safe (how can you leave the nuts/bolts slightly loose and not have them come apart?) but I do see his point. I think I have the same problem, with only one shoe making good contact. I understand theren used to be a procedure in the manual where you centered the brakes by loosening these 2 bolts, spun the rear wheel, locked up the rear brake, and tightened the bolts. Opinions?

[Arizoni]

I wish that damn Youtube video would be removed.

It's suggesting things that could be downright dangerous and it seems every month or so someone asks about it here on the forum.

The generally accepted thought of all of us is don't do it.