Author Topic: Clutch Clarification (Read 4829 times)

Snobrd · **on:** July 08, 2008, 02:45:44 am

Quote Snidal page 7, "....remember that the clutch is not designed to be disengaged for more than a few seconds at a time,...."
I have always been lead to believe that with an oil immersed wet clutch it is safe to disengage the clutch for extended periods such as time stopped at traffic lights. That point is emphasized in The Motorcycle Rider Safety Course. Keep your eye on your rearview mirror, keep the clutch lever pulled in and never shift into neutral stopped at a light (on bikes with wet clutchs.)

Snobrd · **Reply #1 on:** July 08, 2008, 02:48:36 am

What is the general opinion regarding the RE?

jest2dogs · **Reply #2 on:** July 08, 2008, 03:01:20 am

You'll end up with a hot draggin' clutch. At a long light you might find yourself slowly creeping forward. I always put it into neutral at a stop unless I am doing a California stop. I also check my surroundings, especially behind me, for traffic status.

-Jesse

sqf · **Reply #3 on:** July 08, 2008, 03:03:34 am

I always pop it in neutral. Have for years. If you need to get into gear you don't need the clutch when your at idle, not in an evasive move. Just slam it down while giving throttle. It'll go.

t120rbullet · **Reply #4 on:** July 08, 2008, 03:05:33 am

It's not really a "oil immersed wet clutch".
Yea, there's oil in there to lube the chain but if the level is correct it's below the clutch pack.
Yea, they tend to overheat if the clutch is held in for extended periods of time and shifting takes a hit because of it.

Bankerdanny · **Reply #5 on:** July 08, 2008, 03:35:11 am

I try to have my bike in neutral before I reach a complete stop. holding the clutch in for an extended period is annoying, plus it wears the clutch

cyrusb · **Reply #6 on:** July 08, 2008, 01:40:30 pm

Also, keeping the clutch in for extended periods wears the release rod. I do think that you have more than a couple of seconds before any damage is done. If the clutch is creeping its out of adjustment.

Spitting Bull · **Reply #7 on:** July 08, 2008, 01:42:57 pm

Agree - you'll get clutch-drag and a stall in a surprisingly short time! And if in stop-start traffic the problem gets worse if you keep holding the clutch in as it will become harder and harder to find neutral. Get into neutral before you stop and leave the clutch alone.

Tom

bob bezin · **Reply #8 on:** July 08, 2008, 03:22:08 pm

and then your cablel snaps

Snobrd · **Reply #9 on:** July 08, 2008, 05:42:19 pm

Thank you all. Message received and appreciated. I only have 225 miles on the bike (that's in a week and a half). Happy to get this clarified before I did damage.

sqf · **Reply #10 on:** July 08, 2008, 06:39:58 pm

Quote from: bob bezin on July 08, 2008, 03:22:08 pm

and then your cablel snaps

I've had that happen on my Yamaha. But if you know the bike well enough you can ride and shift without the clutch anyhow. It sometimes gets a little jerk but it'll get you home!

bob bezin · **Reply #11 on:** July 08, 2008, 07:42:03 pm

i drove a vwbus from armitage to 21st st in chicago without a clutch. does anyone remember the jawa the shift lever activated the clutch.

PhilJ · **Reply #12 on:** July 08, 2008, 08:24:18 pm

It was also the kick starter.

Snobrd · **Reply #13 on:** July 08, 2008, 10:15:48 pm

I had a '67 VW Bus Deluxe (no sunroof). Best bus ever made. Last year of the double hinged doors and the first year of the 12 volt system. My sister later had a Karmen Ghia with the Automatischen Stick Shiften or whatever it was called. When you pressed down on the stick it engaged the clutch. I had a habit driving with my hand resting on the old bus shifter. When I drove my sister's car, every five minutes it would start bucking like crazy because I forgot and rested my hand on the shifter.

Bankerdanny · **Reply #14 on:** July 08, 2008, 11:34:45 pm

I had a Ghia like that too. After several years of a regular stick shift it did take time to get out of the habit of resting my hand on the lever.

geoffbaker · **Reply #15 on:** July 09, 2008, 01:43:57 am

I think one of the biggest problems with the clutch - at least on older models - isn't the clutch plates or assembly... it's the clutch rod that passes through the gearbox.

As you engage the clutch, that rod is forced out and takes the pressure off the clutch plates, letting them spin. Problem is, that rod has no real lubricant. It's two pieces of metal, separated by a ball bearing, spinning with the clutch plates.

Excess use of the clutch can overheat these rods and break them.

Bankerdanny · **Reply #16 on:** July 09, 2008, 02:50:19 pm

While I had my transmission and primary apart this spring I upgraded to the heavy duty springs and the roller bearing clutch pad. For the unitiated, that's the part that the rod pushes against the clutch plates forcing them out and allowing the clutch to slip, the stock part is two plates that spin on oil.

Snobrd · **Reply #17 on:** July 09, 2008, 08:17:34 pm

Man! Ask a simple question and you learn a lot. This Bulletin Board is great.

Bankerdanny · **Reply #18 on:** July 09, 2008, 10:22:42 pm

Short and to the point we are not. Ask about one issue and you are sure to see the comments include a variety of related side issues brought up.

The board has been very helpful for me as I worked on mine this year.

meilaushi · **Reply #19 on:** July 10, 2008, 04:51:50 pm

Best board I've ever seen!

Author Topic: Clutch Clarification (Read 4829 times)

geoffbaker