[High On Octane]

Yeah, I just realized that part # 90010D won't work with the scissor clutch.   

Also my clutch is pretty beat up all over.  I'm just going to throw new plates and springs in it for now until I can afford a Newby and throw a 21 tooth sprocket on while I'm in there and already have it tore aprt.

Scottie J

[ERC]

I'd throw a new friction disc in there also. Order extra rivets to. It'll give you some to practice with to get them right.  ERC

[High On Octane]

I planned on replacing all the plates, steel and friction.  For those rivets, I should just be able to smash them together with an air hammer right?

Scottie J

[ERC]

It doesn't take much to flatten them an air hammer will be way to much. You have to practice a bit to get them right.   ERC

[High On Octane]

My Co worker has a real nice IR air hammer with a very forgiving trigger.  I have actually used it a couple of times to pound dents out of sheet metal that were I'm hard to reach areas where I couldn't swing a body hammer.  It worked quite well.

Scottie J

[Blltrdr]

Scottie if you are going to replace your friction material on your clutch basket you should just send it to Jim at Speedway Services in Oregon (this guy is freakishly knowledgeable). Even if you don't have the work done he is someone you should call (503-588-7227) just to bend his ear about your project (he is doing an Interceptor 750 right now). He says they use a Raybestos Super 10 lining that is thicker than stock so they can true up the lining material on a lathe. They glue it rather than rivet it for longevity and superior strength. Jim has built a truing jig using a main shaft that is a stand alone setup just to do this procedure. Whatever he charges (I talked to him today and he quoted $125 for your clutch basket) is a fraction of what someone would have to spend in time to get it right. If you do happen to call him I would let him know what model it is off of. This may seem petty or insignificant but I'm sure that blueprinting your clutch will be worth all the time and money. Starting with a known trued surface will be optimal. You would think that even if you do rivet on your friction material you would still need to have it chucked and turned (that's where the extra main shaft comes in handy) to make it completely flat and I'm not really sure if the new friction material that Hitchcock's sells is thick enough to allow for any truing. Well good luck with whatever way you decide to go about it. I'm sure it will perform much better than it does now.

Brad

[High On Octane]

Thanks for that info Brad, but I'm going to do it on the cheap this time around and just fix and repair I have.  Just finished resurfacing my pressure plate.





Scottie J

[Blltrdr]

Well I would call Jim anyway. He is a cool old guy with lots of knowledge, which I'm sure he would be delighted to share with you. Maybe he could give you some ideas on how to maximize it on the cheap.

[High On Octane]

Ok cool,  I'll be sure to give him a shout.   

Scottie J

[High On Octane]

Clutch parts are ordered. 

[Arizoni]

Just a thought about using something like an air hammer.

If the rivets are easily peened over with hand tools, that is the way I would recommend.
It allows the builder to sneak up on the right amount of peening so the friction material is held in place but not crushed.
It also reduces the chance of overdoing it and warping the underlying plates.

Just a thought.

[High On Octane]

Just a thought about using something like an air hammer.

If the rivets are easily peened over with hand tools, that is the way I would recommend.
It allows the builder to sneak up on the right amount of peening so the friction material is held in place but not crushed.
It also reduces the chance of overdoing it and warping the underlying plates.

Just a thought.

I was under the impression, that considering what the rivets need to hold, that they would be made out of steel.  Are they actually aluminum or pot metal or something?  Because if that's the case, I need to find a different method all together to mount the pads.  I'm not putting this clutch back together with a set of crap rivets.  You can forget about that.  If I can peen the rivets by hand, then I feel like they won't be strong enough for how I ride.     

Scottie J

[ace.cafe]

Max torque on those linings is not all that dramatic.
If you have about 2:1 primary ratio, then you have about double the engine torque as a max, plus some shock loading on hard shifts. Probably under 100 ft-lbs at max. You can turn a torque wrench that hard with your hands.

Most clutch and brake lining rivets that I have seen on Brit vehicles are copper or some variation like bronze.
If you are concerned, look up on the internet for some specialty adhesive for brake and clutch linings, and use both adhesive and rivets.

[Bullet Whisperer]

Scottie, we have one of these in our 350 racer - very good value for money and a big improvement 

http://www.burtonbikebits.net/alloy_hard_anodized_splined_clut.htm

[High On Octane]

Ordered an E-Z Coil tap and coils today.  Should have them tomorrow so I can fix the "primary problem" (pun intended  ) while I wait for the clutch parts to arrive.  Still looking into chemical resistant metal bond for the basket corks.

Scottie J