[pooletx]

Well, before I dive in and start screwing my bike up (2004 Sixty-5 with big bore kit) I thought I'd ask is anyone's had these symptoms appear: engine oil appear on the "dark" or lower cooling fins of the engine, and what looks like a little engine oil spattered on the front of the carburetor.  Could it be a gasket that needs replacing, is the rubber "radiator hose section" between the carb and the engine in need of replacement?  I'm kind of at a loss, and any info is appreciated!
John

[DanB]

I had a similar issue. Could be valve covers, head needs a retorque or the rockers banjo bolts. Lots depends on where you see the leak. If it's only down in the barrel and spraying the underside of the carb, then I'd personally look at head gasket, and check the head bolts.

My leak was the valve cover gaskets. They leaked in part I think due to a plugged crankcase vent block (check that first!)

Good luck.

[pooletx]

Thanks!  Will check tomorrow.

[High On Octane]

If you're only getting oil on the bottom half of the cooling fins where the head meets the cylinder it is likely that it is leaking from the pushrod valleys.  You might be able to re-torque the heads to get it to stop, but not usually.  Most times you need to put a bead of silicone around the valleys before you assemble the head back onto the engine.  Otherwise I've also heard of machining a small recess in the valleys on the head to accept the use of an O-ring.

Scottie

[ace.cafe]

Do not torque the head stud nuts more than 20 foot pounds.
These barrels have a protruding spigot on top which often holds the head up a little too high to allow the head gasket to crush properly,  and it leaks. Over torque just pulls out the studs, or warps the head.
If you have to change the head gasket, then you need to cut the spigot to the proper height for a good seal.

[neil]

Hi John:
I also have a 2004 bullet 65. No big bore kit but symptoms like yours. I had pulled the head for a decoke and valve grinding. I couldn't get the head seated back down enough to avoid oil leaking out of the head gasket. Ace, said that the spigot was too tall and it needed to be filed down to allow the head and new gasket to seal tight enough to keep the oil in the engine and not out on the cooling fins.
I did it with a mill file and carefully measured the amount of lowering of the spigot until I was sure the new gasket would be crushed enough to make the seal. The job is involved and takes some careful measurements but you can stop the leaking by doing it.
You can also wipe the fins after every ride if you don't want to tear into the top of the engine for the permanent solution.
Neil and Buzzy the Bullet

[baird4444]

another question and thought-
   which head gasket do you have now that is leaking? The reason I ask is that some will use the copper gasket but they often do not seal. If this is your case, you could prolly get by with an upgrade to the composite head gasket which is thicker than the copper and may seal your issue. The composite gasket has a good record and seldom fails.
          - Mike

[High On Octane]

My composite head gasket failed in a month.  I'll never use them again.

Scottie

[cyrusb]

Mine leaks up through the stud by the spark plug. It even blows oil bubbles on long hot rides. Fine with me, It is the only way of knowing that the engine is being oiled. They didn't call them "Royal Oilfields" for nothing. 

[rvcycleguy]

If it leaks oil, it has oil...  Start worrying when it stops leaking.... Lol

[neil]

Hi John:
The last few posts about the "Royal Oilfield" are right on. I've done the lowering of the spigot job, and have vented the engine thru a rubber hose out the back of the bike thru a duck-bill and I've removed the oil catch can from the system - - -but I still get some oil around the head gasket which ends up on the fins.
When I adjust the valves to check if they spin without up and down motion, I always see evidence of plenty of oil going up to the rockers before draining down thru the pushrod tunnels.
Like they have said, "when you don't see oil up there, it's a sign of impending trouble. Wipe and ride is a good rule to follow. Also don't over-fill the oil tank, or it'll spew out somewhere you don't like.

Neil and Buzzy the Bullet.

[ace.cafe]

Sometimes it is stubborn to cure. If everything else seems right, a light smear of gasket sealer of your choice on the head gasket around the pushrod tunnels on both sides of the gasket can often stop the last bit of weeping.

[edthetermite]

I had no luck with the composite gasket that was supposed to be the new miracle cure. It's a common problem on these bikes for the head-jug interface to leak. There is compressable material available that allows you to tighten the head down, remove it and check the thickness. You then can compare that to the gasket you plan on using.
I have had fairly good results with a gasket sealer called Gasgacinch.

[feverdog]

Yeah so I have the same problem only every 10km or so my bike conks out and I have to pull the plugs and clean them off.  I've consulted bike enthusiasts and two mechanics.  Everyone, except for one of the mechanics, says that all I need to do is replace the head gasket. 

The one dissenting mechanic, however, gave me a list of parts that will need replacing in addition to the gasket including:

Piston Rings
Valve Guide
Exhaust Valve
Intake Valve
and "the piston" (see http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/engine-kits-vin-sequence-mbssv22-1910.html   part #2 in diagram)

Any truth to needing all those parts or do I only need the gasket?  The mechanic who says I only need the gasket is an Enfield only mechanic who has worked on dozens of all shapes and years.  The other mechanic has only dealt with Japanese, Indian or Chinese appliances (150cc or less, Pulsars, Bajaj, etc.   I live in Bangladesh) and never with an Enfield or even anything bigger than 150cc.  I tend to trust the first mechanic but then again he didn't actually see the problem...  I described it to him over the phone (he lives in Nepal). 

Thanks!

[ace.cafe]

Is the plug looking oily when you need to clean it, or does it look like black dry soot?
If you can post a picture of the plug, that may help.
I ask this because it could be only needing a carburetor adjustment.10km is a very short distance to be loading up with enough oil to foul out the plug. If it is burning that much oil, then you will need to have a look inside.