[ruufman58]

I am looking to do my first oil change when I have between 200 and 300 on the bike.Just looking for an oil recommendation.Not so much a brand but weight,synthetic,semi synthetic.or 100% dinosaur?

[JVS]

 

15W50, any good brand, preferably semi-synthetic or full syn, make sure the oil meets JASO-MA requirements and is 4T rated (motorcycle oil only)

Some good brands include Motul, Mobil, Valvoline etc. I personally use Motul 300V Factory Line full synthetic 15W50.

There are countless threads on this forum regarding oil. A few your reference -

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,16745.0.html

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,16206.msg176192.html#msg176192

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,3580.0.html

[gremlin]

I am looking to do my first oil change when I have between 200 and 300 on the bike.Just looking for an oil recommendation.Not so much a brand but weight,synthetic,semi synthetic.or 100% dinosaur?

IIRC, the distributor (CMW) recommends synthetic and the "Book" specs 15W50

[ruufman58]

Thanks I saw the reccomended viscosity in a few places but was unsure about the type.

[squire]

I use what RE recommend.......Motul 5100 15-50, it's a semi-synthetic, pricey, but a good oil. Motul is the most widely used motorcycle oil on the planet......doesn't mean it's the best though.

[Craig McClure]

I'm a MOBIL 1 Fan, as are many others. Completely synthetic & reasonably priced. Synthetic is proven to lubricate better, & make machinery last longer. I'm also very happy with the synthetic ATF I use in my Forks.

[squire]

Mobil is way overpriced where I live! The best bargain is Rotella synthetic which I use in most on my bikes. Heavy duty diesel and it's JASON rated.

[sparklow]

I am one of those weird old guys who still like to do break-in with dino oil. So at 300 and again at 600 miles I did. I used 20W-50 motorcycle oil both times and then went to full synthetic at 1000 miles. It probably isn't necessary, but it may help to seat the rings and I don't think it can hurt either.

[azcatfan]

I am one of those weird old guys who still like to do break-in with dino oil. So at 300 and again at 600 miles I did. I used 20W-50 motorcycle oil both times and then went to full synthetic at 1000 miles. It probably isn't necessary, but it may help to seat the rings and I don't think it can hurt either.

If nothing else, break-in with the dino oil is cheaper since you're doing the changes so frequent.

I like this site as a go to for oil information:  http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

[Ducati Scotty]

I don't get the dino oil break in thing, aside from being cheaper.  So you believe that the rings and cylinder walls are acting like machine tools, slowly cutting each other, right?  Well when you're using machine tools to cut steel it works much better if you use oil.  And for things like cutting threads where there's lots of pressure there's special oil loaded with all kinds of compounds to make it even more slippery.  So why would you want to use an oil that doesn't work as well to break in an engine?  By that rationale it would be better to run the engine dry for a few revolutions to let things really cut.

Don't get me wrong, it's cheaper to break in with dino oil and it's what I do.  While synthetic is better I don't think it's so much better that it really matters much for the few hundred miles of a break in oil change.  I just don't understand the 'you can't use synthetic to break in a motor' mentality.  There are cars that come straight from the factory with full synthetic and they break in just fine, like every other car.

Scott

[High On Octane]

The reasoning I have heard  for not using synthetic oil during break in is because it is too slippery and it doesn't allow the bearings to break in properly and more importantly the piston rings will never seat causing excessive blow by and oil consumption.

Scottie

[gremlin]

Whoa, Scott .....   too much like science ......
Some of us prefer to live our lives via folktale !

I don't get the dino oil break in thing, aside from being cheaper.  So you believe that the rings and cylinder walls are acting like machine tools, slowly cutting each other, right?  Well when you're using machine tools to cut steel it works much better if you use oil.  And for things like cutting threads where there's lots of pressure there's special oil loaded with all kinds of compounds to make it even more slippery.  So why would you want to use an oil that doesn't work as well to break in an engine?  By that rationale it would be better to run the engine dry for a few revolutions to let things really cut.

Don't get me wrong, it's cheaper to break in with dino oil and it's what I do.  While synthetic is better I don't think it's so much better that it really matters much for the few hundred miles of a break in oil change.  I just don't understand the 'you can't use synthetic to break in a motor' mentality.  There are cars that come straight from the factory with full synthetic and they break in just fine, like every other car.

Scott

[gashousegorilla]

I don't get the dino oil break in thing, aside from being cheaper.  So you believe that the rings and cylinder walls are acting like machine tools, slowly cutting each other, right?  Well when you're using machine tools to cut steel it works much better if you use oil.  And for things like cutting threads where there's lots of pressure there's special oil loaded with all kinds of compounds to make it even more slippery.  So why would you want to use an oil that doesn't work as well to break in an engine?  By that rationale it would be better to run the engine dry for a few revolutions to let things really cut.

Don't get me wrong, it's cheaper to break in with dino oil and it's what I do.  While synthetic is better I don't think it's so much better that it really matters much for the few hundred miles of a break in oil change.  I just don't understand the 'you can't use synthetic to break in a motor' mentality.  There are cars that come straight from the factory with full synthetic and they break in just fine, like every other car.

Scott

  + 1 !   I break in with Dino oil cause it's cheaper then synthetic..... I'm just gonna dump it out in 100-200 miles anyway.   If your rings don't set with in a very short time of initial start up.  I'd be more worried about the machinist who did the cylinder work, then what type of oil I'm using.......

[Ducati Scotty]

The reasoning I have heard  for not using synthetic oil during break in is because it is too slippery and it doesn't allow the bearings to break in properly and more importantly the piston rings will never seat causing excessive blow by and oil consumption.

Scottie

Well then run it dry, and it won't be too slippery   I've heard the same thing too, but I've never understood it.  When working with any metal and cutting tools or abrasives, more lubrication only seems to help make a better, cleaner cut.  It's true when boring, drilling, honing, tapping, on a lathe, even when sharpening knives on a stone.  I've never seen anything in any of those situations that's 'too slippery' to get the job done.  And usually the preferred lubricant is way more slippery than engine oil.  Also, I find it hard to believe that the variety of cheap, crappy dino oils out there are all just right and the variety of all synthetics out there are all totally wrong.  It all just sounds baseless to me.

I also remember Harley folks back in the day saying synthetic was too slippery for a roller main crank bearing and that it would slip and cause flat spots on the individual ball bearings.  I've never met anyone who could show me a bearing that it happened to but the myth persists.

Scott

[Craig McClure]

I have never seen satisfactory, authoritative proof about which oil (dino vs. synthetic) is best for break in. If indeed lots of makes of NEW CARS come with it, I think I'd be convinced. I've heard people insisting on both stories, but since I can't afford NEW machines, I just put in synthetic when I get them.
  Speaking of Folklore & Breaking-in Enfields, I heard the Original British Company began to slide downhill faster due to numerous engine failures in bikes imported to the USA. By the time this happened the bikes were already outdated compared to their competitors. The engines were really very well & tightly made, requiring a relatively long period of gentle break in, in order to seat the Iron Rings & Tight bearing surfaces. Apparently many motorcycling Americans were impatient & throttle happy, Engaging in to little foreplay for good consequences. Resulting in many broken bikes,& Warrantee claims. Enfield's reputation never recovered. Then Floyd Clymer bought remaining stocks to be relabeled as INDIANS, as he had also purchased the ailing INDIAN MOTORCYCLE brand.  If Enfield's were not carried on in Madras India, they wouldn't be here today. I have watched the company progress with great interest, having read good reviews of American journalists traveling to India & purchasing Enfield's to tour the country back in the 1970's. I wanted one even back then.

[barenekd]

The reason the slow break in was the cast iron cylinder. This is one of the problems with the new REs. They are not cast iron and the whole cylinder ring thing is new technology stuff. they don't have to break in rings though several ten thousanths of honing marks. Enfield has done a great disservice to owners of UCE engined bikes buy not totally rewriting the owners manual. the break in procedure is total crap taken from the iron barrel engines. If you really try to use the numbers in the book, you will be more likely to ruin the engine rather that break it in The best way to break in the new bike it just to ride it sanely, don't lug it, don't redline or WOT it for a few hundred miles. You can feel it coming to you. As these are modern engines also will live with modern oils.  Be sure to use modern Motorcycle Oils, as opposed to automobile oils that can damage motorcycle motorcycles clutches and gearboxes. I run Mobil 1 V-twin in my Enfield and Guzzi and am quite pleased with it. breakin was not an issue with either bike nor was oil usage.  There is just not need to go to antiquated old wives' tales. Use modern stuff in modern engines. some of the stories you hear about synthetic oils were true in the 1960s. Those stories just don't apply any more. Except for running synthetic in Foxes! But then that's a '50s engine, kind of an equivalent to an iron barrel! So what do you expect!
Bare