[gashousegorilla]

You could fry an ECU by crossing/shorting battery leads. I had a "Road Service" Goon jump start my 2002 Nissan truck battery, & the guy fried my trucks brain, but wouldn't admit it. Hope tour ECU is cheaper than a Nissans.

  I suppose reversing the polarity at the battery is possible ... BUT.....  I do not believe his relays would pull in.



 

Blinke

I'm pretty sure this didn't happen but if the battery was connected backwards (positive wire on negative terminal/ negative wire on positive terminal) the lights would work fine but all of  the solid state equipment would fail to work.

I suppose if the battery was totally dead when you recharged it you could have connected the charger backwards so the power the battery is producing is opposite what the terminals indicate.

A volt/ohm multimeter could tell you if this happened.

  Battery charger's usually are reverse polarity protected.... unless it's ancient. but possible....

[gashousegorilla]

 I do get the lights on and you can clearly hear that the power relays clicks but all other functions remains dead.
 

   

 If it helps....... IF.... you have a ground issue with the ECU. You will likely hear the power and side stand relay ( if connected and operational) pull in . But not the fuel pump relay.....   And no , BTW, there is no diagnostic tool to test the ECU.

[Blinke]

Here´re some answers to the questions that has come up:

- The battery has got plenty of juice. I used a smart charger for charging http://www.ctek.com/fi/en/chargers/MXS%207.0 that even de-sulfates the battery. Anyhow because there´s plenty of power in it so that´s clearly not the problem.

- Ground cable for the ECU is also connected as all other cables.

- Polarity of the battery is correct. Black to "-" and red to "+". As a matter of fact the cables aren´t long enough to mix up the polarity.

I checked the motor indication lamp in case this would have been some kind of a "closed loop" problem but the light was ok.

Next I will check all the cut off sensors (side stand, rollover switch etc.) and relays. After that all that remains is checking the power connection to the ECU and the ECU itself however that can be done. Unfortunately my work interferes with my hobbies so this might take some time...

 

[Arizoni]

I know you said the fuses were OK but it would be good to buy some new ones and replace the old ones.

Sometimes a fuse won't really "blow" leaving tell-tail indications.  They can just break internally and look quite normal.

[gashousegorilla]

 

Here´re some answers to the questions that has come up:

- The battery has got plenty of juice. I used a smart charger for charging http://www.ctek.com/fi/en/chargers/MXS%207.0 that even de-sulfates the battery. Anyhow because there´s plenty of power in it so that´s clearly not the problem.

- Ground cable for the ECU is also connected as all other cables.

- Polarity of the battery is correct. Black to "-" and red to "+". As a matter of fact the cables aren´t long enough to mix up the polarity.

I checked the motor indication lamp in case this would have been some kind of a "closed loop" problem but the light was ok.

Next I will check all the cut off sensors (side stand, rollover switch etc.) and relays. After that all that remains is checking the power connection to the ECU and the ECU itself however that can be done. Unfortunately my work interferes with my hobbies so this might take some time...

 

  Here is a thought on your ECU that may save you some leg work..... And I'm not sure if your bike is under warranty or not?  But if it is... why not try contacting your dealer and explaining the situation to him.  He may let you bring in the ECU to him and plug it into another bike..... Short of doing that, I really don't now how one could definitely tell if a ECU is bad or not..... without a diagnostic tool that is.

  Looking at the charger you are using.... and I have no experience with that particular one BTW. And It may mean nothing now.... But it does say it charges at 7 amps ?   If it does...  THAT is far too much for a bike battery .  Usually, you want them to trickle charge at 2 amps or less.   And the one you linked, is not the ones they list for motorcycles...... 

[JVS]

This really may not be the case, but, when the ignition is on, do you see the neutral '(N)' indicator light on? Sometimes even if the bike is in neutral, the light may not be on because of the switch. This also doesn't let you start the bike. Just a thought..

Refer to this - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_6W7QS5WQc

[Arizoni]

Another quicky that has probably been tried once but it is worth trying again:

First, turn the red KILL switch off.  Wait a few seconds.
Then, turn the key on.  Wait a few seconds.
Next, click the red KILL button on. 

If something pissed off your rollover switch, this should reset it.

[JVS]

Another suggestion before you do the above is to open the right-hand control cluster and check the contacts of the red 'kill-switch'. Make sure the wires are okay in there.

[gashousegorilla]

Here´re some answers to the questions that has come up


I checked the motor indication lamp in case this would have been some kind of a "closed loop" problem but the light was ok.

Next I will check all the cut off sensors (side stand, rollover switch etc.) and relays. After that all that remains is checking the power connection to the ECU and the ECU itself however that can be done. Unfortunately my work interferes with my hobbies so this might take some time...

     It's good to check those sensors ... BUT....  You should have a MIL light even if it was a sensor, BUT you don't.  It almost HAS to be a bad ground... or your ECU is shot.  Here is why.... You said the bulb is good AND the power relay pulls in and your fuses are ok.  The hot side of that bulb gets power when the power relay pulls in.   You can confirm this after the relay pulls in, by checking the hot side of the MIL light socket  with a test light or Meter, if the test light lights or you have 12v's ?  Your good on power there.  You can do the same on pin #1 at the ECU... to confirm if you want... they are tied in.

  The GROUND side of the MIL light is switched on by the ECU, At pin #21.   So, if you find power at the MIL light with the above tests.. You know your not getting ground out of the ECU.  You can confirm that by  grounding out the bulb with a jumper to the frame , and to the case of the bulb.  IF it lights ?  You have just by passed the ECU ground.... and confirmed your not getting ground from where you are supposed to.    This ECU is a ground switcher.... To kill EVERTHING... ALL your sensors.... AND your MIL light.  It almost HAS to be a bad main ground.... somewhere in the line to the ECU.   Or the ECU itself.    You SHOULD have a MIL light.......

[High On Octane]

Just a thought......  Perhaps the ground lead on the battery has failed?   

[gashousegorilla]

Just a thought......  Perhaps the ground lead on the battery has failed?   

  THAT is exactly what I'm thinking Scottie.  Even though he has checked that it is plugged in.... The integrity of that wire and it's connections, from it's tie in at the ground strap, through the plug, to and through the pin at the ECU plug.....

[Blinke]

And the winner is:

Then perhaps you have a problem with your side stand switch.  Unplug it and see if it fires up.

Scottie

So it was the side stand switch. Apparently the bad side stand switch kills all ECU-functions, even the MIL light. It´s now clear when looking at the wiring diagram that it really does do that but anyhow it´s a stupid circuit in my opinion.

I find it quite interesting that the side stand switch can go bad by just sitting in a dry garage. But I´m truly glad that it wasn´t the ECU.

Thanks for all the help guys and especially you Scottie!

[High On Octane]

I can't take all the credit, we're a team/family here!   

[gashousegorilla]

And the winner is:

So it was the side stand switch. Apparently the bad side stand switch kills all ECU-functions, even the MIL light. It´s now clear when looking at the wiring diagram that it really does do that but anyhow it´s a stupid circuit in my opinion.

I find it quite interesting that the side stand switch can go bad by just sitting in a dry garage. But I´m truly glad that it wasn´t the ECU.

Thanks for all the help guys and especially you Scottie!

 

 
   EXCELLENT !  Glad you got it !   Yes it does kill the entire ECU..... and if working correctly , the MIL light should come on with the stand down.... If these schematics are correct. Odd how you heard the power relay Click? ... or the side-stand relay. But, I guess you may have been getting an erratic connection at the switch, and maybe the relay was clicking , but not making contact?.....  Stupid circuit indeed !!. If not the idea.....  I pulled that entire circuit, and it's relay  when I rewired my bike .

[Craig McClure]

I grew up without side stand switches, & never needed one, looks like you didn't need yours either. Its removal makes your bike that much more bullet proof (no pun intended). Good work!
Next consider watching the U-tube video about removing the plug-in 6" pigtail behind the headlight. After doing this YOU can turn YOUR LIGHT on & off. I'm using a 7" reflector with a extra socket for a Pilot light, wired to the running/parking light circuit. Running my LED pilot bulb keeps me legal, while keeping my electric consumption down & my charging capability up.
I also use a red LED Tail/Brake light bulb, to save amps.
I feel all these measures are reliability improvements on U.S. DOT Nanny State foolishness.