[LJRead]

I've been doing the 300 mile servicing on  my 350 cc AVL (Machismo) and am wondering about the following:

1)  I notice a quantum leap in compression in the last twenty or so miles.  This takes the form of a more powerful thump, firmer compression on kick start and, I think, more torque.  Would this be the result of the rings seating?  Is it normal?

2)  Since I don't drive it many miles, I just take one service job at a time, like oril change, primary chain adjustment, chain lube etc.  I notice Vince's recommendation of retorquing the head, but am hesitant to do so as it is running so well, with good compression, and I'm afraid I might somehow mess things up.  There is no noticeable head weap or any other symptoms, should I just retorque anyway?  My torque wrench probably isn't the most accurate, but it hasn't been used much and should do the job.

I'm enjoying the slow pace I've set to do the servicing, fitting it in with a lot of other "chores".

Thanks for any advice.

LJ

[PhilJ]

LJ, Happy 4th or is it the 5th  ?

On question #1; That sounds a lot like my AVL. It's telling you it feels better now. Gonna feel even mo better later.

On question #2;  The AVL, being alloy (according to the mechanic at my dealer) doesn't require the torque set as in the iron barrel machine. Mine doesn't weep any oil and is now at 2900 miles since April 13, '08. It will probably get a torque job soon, but I don't expect it to really need it. We'll see.
I, like you take these little tasks on as the urges arise. Makes each task a little easier to handle and done with more care than being on a fast paced schedule. Enjoy!

[clamp]

Piston ring bedding in is all important and yes it should increase but not to the amount that you would feel it,--perhaps a little more torque.

   Mine is now just over 1000Km and I am giving it full throttle in mid range and heading for the hills to give it some.

      I am beyond the main  or piston  siezure, now I got to get those rings bedded in for a nice motor.

[LJRead]

Now that you mention the seizing part, it seems quite possible that the driving conditions I was under was causing it to heat up.  I was driving very slow on a back road with no breeze, almost like idling, really, so possibly it was going toward seizure. The rest could be my imagination. 

To top that off, now I have a major problem with the cooling system of my car.  It is setting in town now, waiting till tomorrow when I can bring a large bottle of water and nurse it back home.  It is leaking somewhere.

One thing and then another.

[Vince]

     It won't hurt anything to PROPERLY re-torque the head. If you are one of the one percenters that needed to, you will be glad you did.

[LJRead]

     It won't hurt anything to PROPERLY re-torque the head. If you are one of the one percenters that needed to, you will be glad you did.

It is just that I hear these stories about weak head bolts or of stripping out the casing.  But I suppose 24 pounds of torque isn't that much.

[PaulF]

 One-percenter here. I think I'll actually need it. I have a cylinder haed fastener on the right side thats weeping a little oil.

[Bankerdanny]

Personally I've always favored the electric boogaloo (you might have to Google "breakin" to get it)

[clamp]

Mr Read certainly brings up a very valid point about the weak head studs . I too have heard these stories. If i did do it I would just use a spanner (wrench) and slacken  first one by one and pull it down to "feel",-- as the man says 24ft ilbs isnt much but neither is 6:1 compression ratio.

        I would not just obliviously keep going till the pre selected clicker told me to stop---

       I think I will leave it until I do get a leak or blow the gasket completely. I got a spare.

   

     

[LJRead]

There was an internet site on which an Indian Enfield guru/mechanic was going into torques wrenches and mentioned, just as you have said, clamp, to set them aside, and tighten bolts by feel.  As I recall, he said what you have, to tighten all bolts (not just head) by feeling when the threads are pulling.  In earlier times, I used to over tighten, but sort of naturally came to the same conclusion and haven't had trouble with broken bolts since.
It is almost a Zen type of thing as one intuits or senses when it is right.  Head bolts, I'm not sure, but like you say, if it isn't leaking, maybe leave it be.  There may be some loosening of the bolts through compression of the said-to-be-soft washers, though, so maybe at some point tightening will have to be done.

[clamp]

I can tell you a little story about torque wrenches. Years ago --about 35 actually at the RR school in Wilsden Green, London  a group of you apprentices sat in a class.

       The waxed mustached teacher with white coat was talking about torque. One guy put his hand up and asked why dont RR issue torque settings, ( they didnt in those days)

         The teacher glared at him and said" if you don't know when a nut or bolt is tight we don't want you working on our engines.

         

[SRL790]

Torque it 'till it strips then back it off a flat.

[clamp]

Torque it 'till it strips then back it off a flat.

   There you go ,--you got the feel.

    The way to get an idea of the feel is to buy a load of nuts and bolts, put them in a vice and tighten the nut until it strips or breaks . keep doing this until you feel just before it is going to strip -or break.

    Alluminium is awfull stuff to work with, thats why most outboards are thrown away.