[MtthwFrnswrth]

I'm doing my first oil change by myself on my 2012 C5 and I cant seem to find an explicit answer in my manual as to how much oil I should put in. I followed this youtube video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uo0IW8JVS_I

At the end it says 1.7 liters but in my owners manual it says my engine oil tank capacity is 2.75 litres. I wanted to double check. I realize this is a total noobie question and apologize for that. Thanks for your help!

MF

[JVS]

Make sure you're changing the oil with the bike on a flat surface, on the centerstand. Because even the slightest difference in the angle of the bike affects the level of oil that is seen on the sight-glass.

The capacity of the oil tank is 2.75 litres. However, when you drain the oil, some of it stays in parts of the engine and even the left hand side. Not 100% of it is drained. Typically, members put in around 1.6~1.8 litres of new oil.

For best results, go for a 20-30min (if possible) ride to warm the oil enough. Because in the cold weather, having the bike on for 2 mins on idle isn't really going to lighten the oil that much. Then drain the oil as shown in Singh's video and sway the bike left and right to get the maximum oil out. Even back and forth a bit and apply the front brake abruptly. Buy a 2 litre container from any of your local stores and just measure how much of the existing oil came out. Then re-fill the same amount with the new oil back in the engine. Watch the sight-glass. Once you've re-filled the same amount, bring the level of the oil just a bit above the middle of the sight-glass.

Start the engine and let it idle for 2 mins or so, then give it a little throttle. Turn it off, wait 5 mins and check level again. Fill with new oil if necessary. These bikes drink very less oil and you should be good to go.

Have fun!

[Craig McClure]

YES the manual is misleading on that. I have had difficulties getting the right amount in every time. I whined about my preference for Dipstick over Sight Glass. This has been only my major complaint with the bike. If you over fill, it wile puke up the crankcase breather into your air filter & run badly. My used 2010 came with an oil fouled filter & airbox. I lengthened & rerouted the breather hose over the rear fender to the rear of the bike, where any excess oil just blows out. I'll probably NEVER get the oil level correct - so this solves the problem for me.

[gashousegorilla]

  OIL TANK ?!?!     I remember reading that when I first got the bike.... Wait, that's the air box.... that's the electrical box.... that's the tool box...... what the Hail !?     Perhaps they meant to say crankcase !  

  I don't go crazy trying to measure and figure out how much old oil comes out... just get as much of the old crap out as you can,as JVS suggests, by rocking the bike.  And when you refill, Just add one full quart of oil. Then slowly add the second quart as you are watching the sight glass.  Bring the oil level up to about one third to one half off the bottom of the sight glass..... and call it good. This should cut down on the amount of oil and oil mist being blown and drawn into your air box, and fouling your air filter.  You will wind up using a little less then two full quarts. Maybe a little more if you have the second drain plug up front on your bike.... not sure if the 2012 bikes do or not ?    But anyways, for what it's worth.. I haven't seized my engine at this oil level in the last 4 1/2 years 

[Arizoni]

MtthwFrnswrth

With the motorcycle on the center stand, when you refill the engine with oil, think 1.7 ltr or just a little less than 2 quarts (US).
Watch the oil level sight window and just fill it slowly to the upper line and it will be fine.

[suitcasejefferson]

I am also new to the Enfield. I have always filled up all my bike and car engines to the top of the sight glass, or the full mark on the dipstick. I have read on several forums where several people have destroyed their engines by letting the oil level get too low. I've always believed the oil should be at the full mark, and never had a problem with it. Is that a concern with the Enfield?

I also like to change my oil often. 3000 miles in cars, and 1000 miles in scooters and smaller motorcycles. Mobil 1 motorcycle specific oil is $13 a qt. here. Is there a cheaper oil that would be ok, assuming you change it every 1000 miles?

I have put 88,000 miles on a Japanese 750cc v-twin changing it every 2000 miles with plain old Castrol GTX. It still runs like new. Sorry for asking an oil question, but it seems that many things about the Enfield are different from a Japanese bike, including oil.

[Bulletman]

I am also new to the Enfield. I have always filled up all my bike and car engines to the top of the sight glass, or the full mark on the dipstick. I have read on several forums where several people have destroyed their engines by letting the oil level get too low. I've always believed the oil should be at the full mark, and never had a problem with it. Is that a concern with the Enfield?

I also like to change my oil often. 3000 miles in cars, and 1000 miles in scooters and smaller motorcycles. Mobil 1 motorcycle specific oil is $13 a qt. here. Is there a cheaper oil that would be ok, assuming you change it every 1000 miles?

I have put 88,000 miles on a Japanese 750cc v-twin changing it every 2000 miles with plain old Castrol GTX. It still runs like new. Sorry for asking an oil question, but it seems that many things about the Enfield are different from a Japanese bike, including oil.

Mr. Jefferson.....
You've...just started the beginnings of an Oil War......Wait till the other members respond!

[Ducati Scotty]

On some of the UCE bikes, not all, filling to the top of the site glass will cause the bike to spit oil out of the breather and into the air cleaner.  And probably leak on to the exhaust, nasty mess to clean up.  My bike currently has the site glass totally full and nothing in the air cleaner.  Bikes vary. 

The middle of the site glass seems to be good for any of them.  As long as you can see any oil in the site glass you're just fine and don't need to worry about being too low.

The manual says 15W-50 semi synthetic.  20W-50 is much easier to find in the States and unless you're regularly riding in sub zero temps you'll be fine with it.

I like full synthetic in air cooled engines.  They run hot and it doesn't break down as quickly at high temps.  That said, any good quality oil, synthetic or not, would probably be just fine as long as you change it regularly.  Motorcycle specific oil is better than car oil, better compounds in it for the gears in your tranny.  Don't use anything marked "energy conserving".  These have friction modifiers that are great for you engine but can cause the clutch to slip.  You're not likely to have problems with a small engine like the RE but no sense taking a chance.  Then again, you're not likely to find energy conserving oil in 15W50 or 20W50, so really nothing to worry about   I like 2000-3000 mile intervals, which is probably more often than needed, but 2 quarts of oil and a filter is cheap enough that I don't care.

Lastly, ride more, worry less

Scott

[suitcasejefferson]

Question answered. Thank you. Don't need an oil war.

[Ducati Scotty]

Too late, it's coming

[Arizoni]

IT's WAR TIME!

Just kidding. 
I usually end up with the oil level towards the top of the sight window on my 2011 G5 and I haven't had a problem with the engine blowing oil out yet.

As for the oil quantity, don't believe the book if it still says "2.75 Liter".  IMO, that's a misprint.
1.75 liters (about 1.8-2 quarts) would be correct for my 500cc UCE and that's after I have tipped it to the right and to the left to get the extra oil out of the side cases.

As for the oil, I think any motorcycle specific oil will work.  I like the Mobil-1 V-Twin oil synthetic but that's just my opinion.
The important thing is to NEVER use one of the automotive oils that are made for just cars.
They won't meet the JASO requirement needed to keep the wet plate clutch from slipping.
They also don't contain the zinc and phosphorus needed to lube the gears in the transmission.

[gashousegorilla]

On some of the UCE bikes, not all, filling to the top of the site glass will cause the bike to spit oil out of the breather and into the air cleaner.  And probably leak on to the exhaust, nasty mess to clean up.  My bike currently has the site glass totally full and nothing in the air cleaner.  Bikes vary. 

The middle of the site glass seems to be good for any of them.  As long as you can see any oil in the site glass you're just fine and don't need to worry about being too low.

The manual says 15W-50 semi synthetic.  20W-50 is much easier to find in the States and unless you're regularly riding in sub zero temps you'll be fine with it.

I like full synthetic in air cooled engines.  They run hot and it doesn't break down as quickly at high temps.  That said, any good quality oil, synthetic or not, would probably be just fine as long as you change it regularly.  Motorcycle specific oil is better than car oil, better compounds in it for the gears in your tranny.  Don't use anything marked "energy conserving".  These have friction modifiers that are great for you engine but can cause the clutch to slip.  You're not likely to have problems with a small engine like the RE but no sense taking a chance.  Then again, you're not likely to find energy conserving oil in 15W50 or 20W50, so really nothing to worry about   I like 2000-3000 mile intervals, which is probably more often than needed, but 2 quarts of oil and a filter is cheap enough that I don't care.

Lastly, ride more, worry less

Scott

   Whats this Scott ?....... are you TRYING to kill a good oil war!       I like the Rotella T oils.   I change it every two k . And Keep the oil level at the bottom third of the glass.....your talking a couple few ounces here, from bottom to the top of the glass. 

[Catbird]

I also like the Rotella oils, T6 to be specific in my RE C5.

[squire]

^ ditto

[suitcasejefferson]

I also like Rotella oil, it is all we use at work (City of Chandler fleet department) but don't use it in bikes because I believe bikes need a 15w50 or 20w50 oil here in the Phoenix area, due to the heat. I believe zinc and phosphorus are important in all oils, but they are being eliminated even in motorcycle oils now. Some time ago, Yamaha announced that they were drastically reducing the amount of zinc and phosphorus in Yamalube oils. I will probably use Yamalube 20w50 non synthetic. I found it locally for $5.50 a qt. It is JASO MA certified. That will allow me to change the oil every 1000 miles. I like nice clean oil in my engines.