It's the other valve that might have the issue
A trick I use is to get the piston within about 1/2" of TDC compression - but not at the top to eliminate possible valve damage - and use something like a tyre lever or any other suitable means to lever the rocker arm to open the valve a little and slip the pushrod end in while the pushrod end of the rocker is raised, giving more space. It is a fiddly job and the fuel tank has to be removed for access, but it works with less faffing around than lifting the cylinder head B.W.
I guess I don't understand why the crank couldn't be set so the piston is at TDC on the firing stroke and then the pushrods installed by removing the rocker arms? Seems like if the tappets were at their lowest position and both valves were closed removing the rocker arms would allow the push rods to be installed fairly easily? After they were in place it should be a no brainer to reinstall the rocker arms, caps and bolts.Maybe it's that funky compression release that's causing the issue? Never mind. I forgot the AVL has those shafts going thru the rocker arms and was thinking about the old Iron Barrel and the UCE designs where there is a removable cap on the rocker arms.
I'm sorry. I'm outa here until the engine is finished & running. I want to thank everyone who's helped, including you, Arizoni, no offense, but it's distracting & of no use to me to be second-guessed at every move. Sometimes by folks who have no clue or don't read the whole thread or have never done the details. I'm alone here, I have no dealer close, I have few options if I fuck up & I DO know what I'm doing & I'm slow & methodical & careful because I HAVE to be because I'm in some physical pain all the time & that in itself makes it more difficult & maybe I HAVE bit off more than I should have this time but I've overcome way more worser things than this in my life. Again. I mean no offense to anyone. I'm just gonna avoid the teeny details of this job from now on. A lot of it is just distracting & too much time on this ACER thing is also VERY hard on my neck which I need to finish my bike. A half hour on this thing & I can't move my neck for an hour.
For what it's worth, I just read the AVL Repair Manuals description of how to change/install the push rods.It says one removes the rocker arms by pulling the 2 pins they rotate on, then remove the rockers (being careful not to have the thrust washers fall down inside the engine) and then pull the push rods out.Maybe doing it this way would make installing the shrouded push rods easier than the method 2CV used?Just a thought.
That's the way I did it when I had the head here. It is a bit of a pain in the ass to fiddle with the thrust washers. But it works.He had to take the head off again anyway because I was having him do a valve-to-piston clearance check anyway, wit clay on the piston crown and rotating past TDC on overlap.Turns out that was a smart move, because this big valve arrangement just barely has enough valve clearance now. But it does make it safely with enough safety margin room so it won't hit.This was a big chore for him to do, but I insisted on it to protect the new valves from potential damage if it didn't clear.In the end, it turned out that all was well, but it was close.
I feel like I am definitely going to need to do this when I assemble the twin......
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