[barenekd]

The yellow mark is the one that should be next to the valve stem. Sometimes manufacturers  use a red or white mark.

[Ducati Scotty]

Yes, yellow goes next to the valve.  It's not the heavy spot, it's the light spot, so you put it next to the valve to limit the balancing weight needed.  There are other marks that mean other things, I don't remember what but I remember that I can mostly ignore them

Scott

[JVS]

Ah so the mark on the tyre is the light spot ;o Thanks for the clarification.

Bare, unfortunately, I've had the fork legs off 3 or 4 times, but have been unable to open the 12mm top cap to change the fork oil. I've tried everything to open that cap, but it doesn't move at all. It feels like it is in there permanently. I contacted Hitchcocks too, they also mentioned that this newer design of the fork legs have been a pain in the butt for many other people trying to change their fork oil too.

They also said that they are trying to make a new tool or the like to make it easier for the top cap to come off. I'll try to contact them again regarding this. Other than that, the alternatives I have are buying new fork legs from e-bay and telling them to send the legs with the caps loosened. Or I can try draining the sludge from the bottom of the legs, where the allen bolt thinggy holds the damper rod? Either way, it has been a huge challenge and I gave up. The legs are performing satisfactorily at this stage..

I'm keeping the rear tyre pressure at 28psi and the front around 22-24 now.

[Ducati Scotty]

RE already makes a tool, a big allen with a long T-handle on it. 

Have you tried an impact wrench?  You'd need to get a big allen bit that fits in and remember it's reverse thread  

Scott

[JVS]

Yes Scotty, that's what I've been using. The top cap doesn't move at all. We've tried some 'love taps' (a lot of striking), heat + striking, home-made circular vice and literally brute force of Hercules with an extended lever for more torque. But nope, it just doesn't wanna move 

Haven't tried a dedicated impact wrench yet. To be honest, I still think even with an impact wrench it won't come off. I guess I have to leave it as is for now. I'm tired of taking off the tyre, brake caliper, speedo, fender and then the legs again and again lol. Once I get bored some other time and have nothing much to do, I will try it again...maybe with an impact wrench.

[barenekd]

I used an impact wrench on mine and they came out fairly easily. I never removed the forks from the bike. In fact, changing the oil was strictly removing the bottom nut covers and removing the allens and the top plugs. The wheel wasn't removed either. That was what really irritated me about waiting 10,000 miles to do it! It rode so much better after getting the sludge out, I couldn't believe it!
Bare

[Ducati Scotty]

It seems that some of the newer B5s and G5s need to remove the top cap.  They don't have the fill hole on the top any more, just a blind plug like the C5.

Scott

[ROVERMAN]

JVS, i hope you don't mind my input here, but i was reading your post and you mentioned you used 19 psi in the front Avon SM. This is way low for the original Bullet frame. I used 28 fr and 32 r on both my 2003 Iron Barrel and my 2013 B5. I tried much lower pressures once and it scared the crap out of me and didn't steer for shit. I would try upping the front pressure on the front K70 incrementally up to maybe 28 psi max and see how that feels, you might be surprised.
Roverman.
Thanks for the K70 feedback, they do look right!

[barenekd]

I used 18-20psi on both the skidmasters and the K70s. Much smoother ride, no handlinf difficulties with the k70s. It didn't matter how much was in the Skidmaster, they were always scary.
Bare

[Craig McClure]

Walking by my bike today, headed toward the FRIGID outdoors, it occurred to me that from the SIDE VIEW, the 3.25 x 19" front tire, & the 3.50 x 19" rear tire, LOOK IDENTICAL in size. Thought I'd interject that tid-bit for the big tire guys, although it seems a losing battle sometimes. Just remember it makes Mother Nature angry when you overlook Scientific Facts & Physics. Trying to look cool to those who are better informed doesn't work.

[JVS]

No worries, Roverman! Your input is always welcome, plus this is a community forum 

See, I was following the manual. Front pressure is recommended to be 18-20psi and the rear at 28-30psi. I had no problems with these pressures and I was okay with it. Handling was acceptable for me also. Mileage was always good. I had been averaging 73.62mpg and on my last fuel-up I got 81.45mpg. This is with the stock tyre pressures.

Regarding the 28psi on the front K70. This is not a good idea because when I got the tyres back on, I checked the pressure and both were at 30psi. So I brought down the rear to 28 and the front to 27.6 or something. Now, when I went for a ride, I noticed that the front was 'bouncing' a bit more than it should...even on the flattest of roads. It was pretty obvious for me that it was the higher pressure at the front. So I reduced the front K70 pressure to around 24, and it has been running very well!

Craig, again, I'll bring my previous post in the 'k70' topic -

Sure the 3.25 is the desired size at the front, but I am willing to experiment. Call the 3.5 a rock crusher, but I am sure the little change in handling is not going to bother me a lot. I am not going at light speed here like an R1, CBR1000RR, Panigale or S1000RR, nor I will be doing the Isle of Man TT on an Enfield Bullet.

I will be riding for pleasure...whether it be city/town or the twisties, and I am prepared to put an extra effort in entering a corner with a 3.5 up front. It can't be that bad and I am sure I can drag the left footpeg + right brake arm all day long with the 3.5 up front also.

Again, this is my personal choice and will surely report on the ride when I swap to the K70s.

Of course you cannot argue with the facts, but I just made a little compromise in favour of looks as compared to performance. Trust me, the performance isn't really that bad, lol.

[Sectorsteve]

There's no k70s for the c5 though...18 inch...
My bad there's a 4.00 k70 in 18 but will these fit the front rim?

[barenekd]

My bad there's a 4.00 k70 in 18 but will these fit the front rim?

It won't fit between the front forks, actually it's technically too big for the rim,too. And you probably like how the bike wold handle either. The steering would be slower and heavier.
Bare

[Craig McClure]

Read somewhere that KENDA makes an line of 18" K70 knockoffs. I liked the Ching Shin K70 knockoffs real well, but now they've been discontinued. Look into the Kendas, if they copied the K70 they should be fine.

[barenekd]

Look into the Kendas, if they copied the K70 they should be fine.

Because they look like a K70 doesn't mean they'll work like a K70. Rubber compound makes a lot of difference! I have no idea how hard a Kenda is.
Bare