[no bs]

location of neutral switch? thought the bilb had gone south, swapped it out. no light. any thoughts?

[azcatfan]

singhg5 had situation with his UCE bike...

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,10163.0.html

He even made a video of how to fix it...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_6W7QS5WQc

Good luck!

[no bs]

thanks! my wire appears intact at the switch, so i'll take out the battery and holder to check the connector.

[gashousegorilla]

thanks! my wire appears intact at the switch, so i'll take out the battery and holder to check the connector.

  Does the bike start ? Or is it just that the bulb doesn't light ?

[no bs]

have to pull clutch lever to start. no big deal, and i can get into neutral without the indicator.

[barenekd]

Doesn't leave much other than the switch to be bad.
Bare

[gashousegorilla]

Doesn't leave much other than the switch to be bad.
Bare

  Yeah.... +1.   OR... it's a bad ground.  That's a ground switching circuit, and when he pulls in the clutch he is getting his ground from there ,instead of the neutral switch.  WHICH .... seems odd, at least according to the schematic... 

   For the heck of it  no bs...... try unplugging the clutch switch and see what happens....

[no bs]

assuming the connector is intact, will grounding the harness side turn the light on?

[gashousegorilla]

assuming the connector is intact, will grounding the harness side turn the light on?

   Not sure what you mean ?   But the object is not just to get the light on, but the circuit functioning correctly.    The neutral light gets power from the ignition switch.... and it's ground from the neutral switch.

 Sooooo, with the bulb in place .... key on...bike in neutral.... wiggle the shifter and spin the back wheel to make sure !  You can take a jumper wire, and touch one side to a suitable ground... a screw... the frame.  And touch the other side to the metal housing ... chrome part.... of the bulb.   If it lights ?   You have a bad ground.

  You can check the neutral switch, buy unplugging it and removing it. And using a multi meter or a continuity tester .   Attach the probes of the meter to the wires. Operate the switch manually and see if you get continuity .... and then you don't, as you manually operate the switch.

[no bs]

only 1 wire, so continuity from the switch wire through the switch body? seems like one of our toyota switch tests.

[gashousegorilla]

only 1 wire, so continuity from the switch wire through the switch body? seems like one of our toyota switch tests.

  Yes.... your right, there is only one wire.   So I would imagine, that continuity would be between the one wire, and the ball on the bottom of the switch.  I would think that .... with the ball extended , you would not have continuity. With the ball pushed in, you would. I believe it is a normally open switch....

[gashousegorilla]

  ACTUALLY no bs ..... you should HAVE continuity , between the ball and the wire, whether the ball is pushed in or let out. The neutral switch is not really a switch.... it's just a spring loaded contact that rides on the cam plate.   It's really half of a switch... the other half or contact is the camplate.  It must ride on the cam plate and make and break contact , as the cam plate rotates.   I checked an old one here, with broken wires on it   

[Arizoni]

Ahhh!
That explains why sometimes when I shift into neutral the light may flick on and off.  Then by moving the shift lever just a trifle the light comes on.  The little ball  wasn't making good contact with the cam.

[no bs]

instead of eating lunch, i pulled the battery and holder out. found the harness side wire snapped off at the connector. stuck some spade connectors on. neutral light functioning. that harness under there is a friggin' mess! thanks for the insights guys.

[gashousegorilla]

Ahhh!
That explains why sometimes when I shift into neutral the light may flick on and off.  Then by moving the shift lever just a trifle the light comes on.  The little ball  wasn't making good contact with the cam.

  YES !  .... as apposed to a spring loaded switch , like a brake light switch, making and breaking contact inside.  Drove me crazy looking at the Schematic !.... it shows it as a complete switch with one wire.  But looking at the " switch"  ..... It has a plastic body !  D'oh      So ground is made on the Cam Plate.. and the ball must roll into one of those slots on the plate and break the ground.   I'm thinking when the light gets a little flickery.... you might be on the edge of the slot in the cam-plate.  Or the ball and internal spring get a little sticky.... and then drops, as you wiggle the cam plate.



 

instead of eating lunch, i pulled the battery and holder out. found the harness side wire snapped off at the connector. stuck some spade connectors on. neutral light functioning. that harness under there is a friggin' mess! thanks for the insights guys.

   Excellent !   At least that is an easier fix at the connector , then at the switch it's self  ...   Curious, do you still need to pull the clutch in to start the bike?  ..... It's an odd circuit on the schematic....

[no bs]

no. the darn thing starts in neutral as normal. no clutch lever required. i will be re-visiting the wiring harness this weekend to clean up a few routing fubars.

[gashousegorilla]

no. the darn thing starts in neutral as normal. no clutch lever required. i will be re-visiting the wiring harness this weekend to clean up a few routing fubars.

   Yeah, sounds like you are OK now.   I guess one more simple test would be , if you feel like it.... for curiosity's sake...  key on,  side stand up, bike IN gear, clutch pulled in and see if she starts.

[no bs]

been there, done that. the sidestand switch already occupies an honored spot in my toolbox, therefore a non-factor.