Author Topic: leaky carby  (Read 6991 times)

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High On Octane

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Reply #15 on: January 05, 2014, 11:53:51 pm
 ;D ;D ;D

In all fairness I just based my assumption on the information provided and personal experience.
« Last Edit: January 06, 2014, 12:00:45 am by Scottie J »
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Blltrdr

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Reply #16 on: January 06, 2014, 12:32:48 am
;D ;D ;D

In all fairness I just based my assumption on the information provided and personal experience.

Exactly, this is all we can do. Relevant or not, any advise is better than none. Plenty of folks here to steer the ship if it does get off course.
« Last Edit: January 06, 2014, 03:22:20 am by Blltrdr »
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Blck Pepper

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Reply #17 on: January 10, 2014, 12:05:39 pm
Magic woohoo. After 10 years 4th and she started. Thanks for all the help guys. Top forum. Now for the electrics. Anyone know why flash high beam is working but my normal beam and normal high beam are not?


High On Octane

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Reply #18 on: January 10, 2014, 01:25:28 pm
That's hard saying.  I would do a very thorough inspection of the complete wire harness and determine the state it is in and where there are failures.  If it seems to be ok and in working order, then just repair whatever small areas you have to fix .  Could be a bad switch too.  You'll just have to dig into and find the problem.  If you don't already own one buy a multimeter and learn how to use it, it will make your life much easier.

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Blltrdr

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Reply #19 on: January 10, 2014, 06:47:05 pm
Magic woohoo. After 10 years 4th and she started. Thanks for all the help guys. Top forum. Now for the electrics. Anyone know why flash high beam is working but my normal beam and normal high beam are not?

I would take a look at your wiring to the headlight. See what color wires hook to which prong then compare with your wiring diagram. If you don't have diagram pm me with your year of Bullet and I will send you one.
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barenekd

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Reply #20 on: January 10, 2014, 10:21:46 pm
It's got to be in the dimmer switch if the flasher is working. Look for power going to the dimmer switch. I had one that was assembled wrong from the factory, I fixed it, then had to replace it from a crash. This tore up the outer case. The new one never seemed to give full power to the headlight. I was getting nearly a volt drop from the battery to the light bulb. I never did figure out what was causing the drop. One of the old guys on the forum said the wires were to small in the wiring harness to carry the needed amperage. I couldn't dispute his claim. I ended up having to install relays in the light system to run directly from the battery to the headlight bulb through the relays. I used heavier wire running to the headlight. I used the power from the dimmer switch to activate the relays. The lights were great after that.
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Reply #21 on: January 10, 2014, 10:58:39 pm
+1 to the multimeter (volt/ohm meter).  Without this, chasing problems in an electrical circuit is like looking for a acorn on a moonless night.

The following might not exactly match the wiring on a RE but the basic principles should be right.

If the parking lights (casquette eyes and tail light) are working with the headlight/parking light/off switch in the parking light position that would indicate the switch is getting power from the keyed ignition switch.
This switch should have at least a power in, parking lights out, headlight out terminal or wire.

 Changing this switch to the "Headlight position" I would then check the headlight output terminal at that switch to see if the switch was working correctly.  If there is power coming in but no power out, the switch is the problem.

If the headlight power output terminal is powered with the switch in the "headlight" position, the next thing to check is the High/Low beam switch.
Is the power getting to its input terminal?   If it is, check the high/low output terminals at that switch.

If the High and Low beam output terminals can be turned off and on by changing the switch lever, the problem is the wiring between that switch and the headlight.
 
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