Set the idle speed when the bike is hot, and don't try to make it too low. Set it high enough to not die in the difficult situations. 1000 rpm is usually good.
Have you checked for air leaks on/at the manifold?
Nothing leaking there, only issue overall the bike has is this and damned tappet cover leak, also noisy tappets. Is 0.015" the right clearance for the tappets?
I honestly don't know a lot of technical specs on the Bullets, but on my vintage twin when I set the valves to .012 it sounded like the engine was falling apart. I believe for the Bullets, the technique is to set tappets "nil" or just loose enough to be able to spin the tappet with your fingers without having any extra play.Scottie J
Haha heard of that but I must have a number!Still this idle baffles me, I set it abit higher and I'll see how I go tomorrow
The number is "nil" Hahahaha OK IF you HAVE to have an actual number, let's say .001-.002.As for the idle, just set it at 1000 RPMs when the engine is at full operating temp. If it is anything like my twin or any other old bikes I've had, you just need to manually operate the throttle until the bike gets warms enough to walk away and put your gear on, usually about 90-120 seconds. Besides, doing it this way assures that you are not taking off before the engine is warm enough to put a load on it.Scottie j
Update!:Bumped up the idle to around 900-1000rpm, no issues, ran like a dreamNow to actually make some working brakelights..
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