Author Topic: How to adjust timing?  (Read 12466 times)

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amritc

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Reply #30 on: December 04, 2013, 08:42:45 pm
This is a great post and full of informative learning for us neophytes..

How would I set the timing if my plate is already at full retard and has no more way to give (clockwise)? I understand in these cases the plate must be taken off and the distributor shaft be rotated by hand to give the plate a central point in order to allow for retard and advance movement  once again. My questions are;

1) How do you move the distributor shaft?
2) In what direction will you need to move the shaft in order to allow the plate to be put back on with enough space to move back and forth (Clock Wise and Anti Clock Wise)?
3) Once timing is set and the plate is tightened up where shoudl the reference point be marked? On the plate? Or behind the plate?

Thanks once again.


baird4444

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Reply #31 on: December 04, 2013, 09:10:56 pm
all below are from my files. hope they can help.
we were ALL Newbies once - Mike

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
How old are your points? and what is the gap? The points may need
replacing.
Dont forget to place a drop of light oil on the felt wick that lubes
the points cam. (1 drop each month or 1000 miles...)

The Auto advance it a taper fit into its drave shaft; to remove it,
either use the correct 'puller' or simply remove the central retaining
bolt, insert a short metal bar in through the center of the AA, and
give it a short sharp rap with a hammer; that will break free the taper
of the AA unit from the shaft.

The correct 'puller' is easy to make from a bolt that will screw into
the thread in the outer end of the AA unit, and a suitale lenght of
1/4" rod that is inserted into the drive shaft and allows 'puller' bolt
to bottom out onto it; thereby extracting the AA unit.

A Handy tip: Mark the AA unit first (with a dot of paint?) and a
reference mark in the housing, so that you know where it was located.
Start by repositioning the AA unit so that it is 2-3mm (1/8") back
(counter clockwise) from where it was previously situated. That should
provide you with adequate 'retard', and see your points plate
centralised again.

Tim
N.Z

There's a much easier way to do this. The advance unit is screwed onto the end of the shaft and stays in place by a tapered fit. Simply loosen the retaining screw, and give the end of the unit a nice solid whack with a mallet, or drift.(I use a piece of wood and a hammer.)
 it drops right off. From there adjust as necessary, and reassemble. With the bike in gear, and the rear brake applied,
you should be able to get it good and tight.
Much easier and quicker than going through the timing chest.
Cheers,
Pat
'My dear you are ugly,
 but tomorrow I shall be sober and you will still be ugly'
 - Winston Churchill


AgentX

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Reply #32 on: December 04, 2013, 10:19:35 pm
This is a great post and full of informative learning for us neophytes..

How would I set the timing if my plate is already at full retard and has no more way to give (clockwise)? I understand in these cases the plate must be taken off and the distributor shaft be rotated by hand to give the plate a central point in order to allow for retard and advance movement  once again. My questions are;

1) How do you move the distributor shaft?

2) In what direction will you need to move the shaft in order to allow the plate to be put back on with enough space to move back and forth (Clock Wise and Anti Clock Wise)?
3) Once timing is set and the plate is tightened up where shoudl the reference point be marked? On the plate? Or behind the plate?

Thanks once again.

During the re-setting process, you set the piston position by rotating the rear wheel while the bike is in top gear.  You will measure piston height through the spark plug hole; I think the purpose-made tool for this pays for itself the first time you use it.

Rotating the wheel in gear moves all the engine internals, including the distributor shaft, as the piston rises and falls.  When the piston is in the right place, you'll break the taper-fit between the CB and the distributor shaft  (using a puller or a mallet per baird's post) and reset in the acceptable range, then tighten the taper again.  Should be able to get it adjusted this way so everything is good with the points fixing screws dead-middle in the slots.

That's just a broad overview of the process.

You guys should all get the Snidal manual.  I don't think it's a perfect publication, but it's about as good as we get.


coolgoose2

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Reply #33 on: December 05, 2013, 04:12:46 am
Scottie:  + 1 on the tuning
Coolgoose: Is this the Zen of Enfield Maintenance that I always heard about or is it the Old Monk kicking in (small taps on the condensor ;D)...

Ha ha. Actually,a bit of both. Monk is good. They have a seven year old version, which is even better  ;)
I started reading Pirsig in early 90s and finished in 2009.  It's probably the best book on motorcycle maintenance, irrespective of what the author claims.

Regarding 'Zen' of Nandan, here is the link for those who needs it, pretty sums up everything.
http://www.nandanmotors.com/adj_ignition.html

cheers  ;D


316CMH

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Reply #34 on: December 25, 2013, 10:10:22 am
IT'S ALIVE!!! My father in law had in running within 2 hours yesterday!  The man is a mechanical genius. He's never seen a Royal Enfield, moved the points plate until it fired and started (was nowhere near any of the holes to mount it back so he held it in place with a c clamp) he took off the cover and moved some gears around, moved the points plate where it should be and bam! This guy doesn't know how to turn on a computer but if it has a motor, he'll fix it. Going to have one happy little fella as soon as he wakes up! Merry Christmas everyone


ace.cafe

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Reply #35 on: December 25, 2013, 01:34:18 pm
Merry Christmas!
:)
Home of the Fireball 535 !


High On Octane

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Reply #36 on: December 25, 2013, 01:59:26 pm
Freaking Sweet!  Merry Christmas!
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


Blltrdr

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Reply #37 on: December 25, 2013, 07:01:05 pm
Awesome! Merry Christmas.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


AgentX

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Reply #38 on: December 25, 2013, 08:56:15 pm
he took off the cover and moved some gears around, moved the points plate where it should be and bam!

Congrats!!  That's awesome.  Merry christmas indeed!

Sounds like he popped off the timing cover and re-oriented the distributor drive gear.

There's also a way to do to adjust the timing beyond the slots without pulling off the timing cover.  You can break the taper between the advance unit/cam assembly by whacking it with a screwdriver handle or dead blow hammer, then adjust the position of the cam to where you want it and re-set the taper.

Not that you should need to do that again now, ever...  :)


316CMH

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Reply #39 on: January 03, 2014, 01:49:32 pm
Here's a picture of the happy little fella.


Blltrdr

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Reply #40 on: January 03, 2014, 09:28:00 pm
Here's a picture of the happy little fella.

I think you will have to download pic again. Can't seem to open it.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


316CMH

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Reply #41 on: January 05, 2014, 01:02:44 pm
Hope this opens...


High On Octane

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Reply #42 on: January 05, 2014, 02:27:57 pm
How awesome!  Bet that little man was super excited to have his first big boy bike.  Have you started him on a dirt bike yet?   :)

Scottie
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


316CMH

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Reply #43 on: January 05, 2014, 02:44:04 pm
Oh yeah,  he started on a yamaha 50 when he was about 5 I guess. Then I moved him up to a tt90.


High On Octane

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Reply #44 on: January 05, 2014, 04:11:46 pm
That's awesome!  I'd like to get a couple old XR80s to get my kids riding.  I think I'm going to be checking out criagslist this summer and see if I can't find something for them.  :)  I'm really glad you were able to get that bike fired up JUST in time for Christmas.  That's good stuff right there.  :)

Scottie
2001 Harley Davidson Road King