Hi.
Here is how I do it..I am from Kerala, India and I ride a 2009 model 350 with CB ignition.
Tools for Ignition timing setting:
1. TDC tool from Nfield gear; you can do with a hollowed out spark plug(don't strip the thread) and a metal rod; however see to it that it does not fall into the cylinder(you can use an allen key)
2. a 12V lamp connected to crocodile clips. One end to the points nut and second to chassis(ground). This is to check the exact moment of parting of points. Point are connected to ''primary'' of the ignition coil and the temporary disconnection of the primary circuit will disrupt the magnetic field and thereby induce a potential difference in the ''secondary'' which is connected to spark plug. the wiring in the primary and secondary of the coil will determine the strength of the spark. Traditional mechanics use their eye to see the parting of points, but I feel that electrical separation of points occur before it could be detected by eye. Electrical separation can be established correctly by a electrical circuit with a lamp
3. no-8 tubular spanner; to loosen and tighten the nuts of the points back plate...
4. lens/torch to see whether there is any pitting of points. check when they are at max gap. I deliberately did not check the gap with the feeler gauge this time as I had done it last time (one week back)and found to be correct.
5.plug wrench/screw driver
HOW: The theory on static timing adjustment dictate that spark should occur 0.8mm before top dead center (TDC) in compression stroke... So that is the aim of this experiment
1. put the bike in neutral gear and kick till compression prevents the piston from going down. the gently pull de-compression lever and push the kicker down by a couple of inches and watch for the ammeter to flick back to zero. Piston is reasonably near top dead center(TDC) in compression stroke.
2. Put the bike in fourth gear by pulling up the neutral lever and rotating the rear wheel at the same time. Now the piston movement can be effected via rotating the rear wheel.
3. Remove the spark plug and put in the TDC tool. You can also use a hollowed out plug with a metal rod in it; see to it that rod does not fall into the chamber(you can use an Allen key)
4. Open points cover and check the points gap with feeler gauge and set it at 0.35-0.4mm. Plastic visiting card is ~ 0.4 mm
5. connect the lighting set up. connect one clip to the points nut and other to chassis( I connected it to seat clamp). Do not let the clip connected to points nut to touch back-plate.
6.switch on ignition and see whether light is on( or whether points are open).. if so rotate the rear wheel in CLOCKWISE(viewed from spark-plug side of the bike) till lights go off( or points close) . rotate CLOCKWISE bit more.
7. rotate rear wheel slowly in the ANTICLOCKWISE direction looking at the TDC tool till the piston is at the top...rock back and forth till piston reaches top.note the reading of the gauge of TDC tool.. or in the case of using hollowed out plug and rod, the point where the rod protrudes maximum. make a mark with file and another mark about0.8mm above this mark.
8. again rotate rear wheel ANTI-CLOCKWISE and take it to a position where the reading is 0.8 mm above the TDC reading/mark(a bit less than one mm mark). If you had accidentally passed the mark, then do all the above process again. DO NOT ROTATE BACK. Rotate the wheel in one direction (ANTI-CLOCKWISE) otherwise Cam gear backlash will act and movement of piston and rear wheel will loose synchronization and will give false reading.(if it has passed the top mark, repeat from step-4 onwards)
9. at that position(0.8mm above TDC), loosen the lock nuts of points back-plate with 8no tubular spanner and adjust back-plate so that lights JUST turns on.
10. tighten back-plate and check again to check that ignition is correct.
VOILA.. done..This is my method for static timing adjustment. As I am doing only city riding currently, this is enough
ride safe