Thanks Ace.
Did you need to retard your S Cams intake cam by a tooth to avoid contact with the piston, or not?
No, I did not need to retard. They are 'on the dots'. Although, it is acting like it has been retarded.
Did you put the silicone sealer on the manifold/head joint instead of a gasket?
No gasket; just sealer on the joint. No leaks at all.
The choke is certainly down all the way, but I assumed that the new carb was internally clean. I never thought to check it out. Maybe there is a blockage somewhere. Thinking I probably should check the passages and disassemble the choke. The plunger button is down all the way, and it shows a bit of 'rod'. Hard to describe what I'm thinking in my head; i need a photo.
Can you help me with the reading of plugs? You say the chops look richer than other AVLs. Can you tell me what you're looking at? Here's the plug...
1. Ground strap shows the heat index / timing of the engine. My heat band comes up onto the strap onto the flat of the strap... it's not on the apex. I think its ok, but it may be a little 'cold' (photo is crappy)
2. The fuel ring. Too dark and sooty?
3. When I look inside the plug on the metal screw shell wall, i see the same darker deposits. Am I looking for a lighter tan /brown here?
4. The porcelain is mostly clear. I
think i can make out a brown band towards the middle of the insulator. It doesnt go all the way around.
Should I be looking at the threads as well on the plug? Like 2 to 3 threads discolored?
Trying to decide my next move; Here's what Im thinking in order of sequence (please let me know if I'm way wrong here):
1st. Lean out the pilot circuit - try 22.5 if the 25 taps out at 3 turns.
2nd. Move clip one leaner (drop it), and see what I get.
3rd. P2 Needle
Regardless - need my 3/4 & WOT reading.
I use this site as a reference; I know its for cars, but it helps me to visualize what i should be looking at...
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3063102Thanks Tom, as always!!!!