You can even bore out the existing flange to match the 40mm OD of TM32 I think.
Im a college student and broke ivr been running the tm32 with the stock flange
A proper Mikuni 30-34 mm flange is about $25. I think this model, M-VM34-200K, should do it. http://www.nichecycle.com/ncs/index.php/frontpage-slider/carb-flange-carburetor-flange-adapters-rubber-by-mikuni.htmlRight part for the job means less problems later (nasty lean condition), and more consistent performance.
You need the Sudco rubber manifold that fits the 32-34mm carbs, and has the right spacing for the studs. The rubber manifold that NField Gear uses for their 34mm carb kit will work.You can use a K&N pod filter, or an Ace Air Canister will fit on there too.You can probably guess which one I think you should use.
TM is flat slide, VM is round slide; Is that right?
Thanks for the p/n Ace!
Ditto Looks like I'm on some kind of path, doesn't it?
I finally found Throttle Cable 021-947 for the TM-32 on a RE on the Sudco Price List. It's $22.00, Item #4,223 in a cast of millions, I guess. The website doesn't seem to work like most I'm used to. Most links produce a Not Found 404 when clicked on & the online catalog is impossible to read (the text is microscopic). And there's no Search window. And there doesn't seem to be any way to order anything. Is it me? Do you have to order through a dealer? That would make the cable what? $50.00?
In the past, I have just called them and gave them part numbers, and they shipped them to me.Try calling.
Why can't I just be happy with the CV? The bike runs perfectly fine, perfectly being relative, with it.
The TM-32 I ordered from Amazon arrived and I thought I'd let others know that it is shipped with a 250 main, 45 pilot and a Q2 needle jet. It will be another $25 worth of jets, more if I order a few extra sizes, a cable if I can't piece one together $22, then an air filter. I may try to find a 58mm id hose that I can be used to connect the carb to the airbox.No rush as there is a few inches of snow in my yard and the temperature just barely broke 30F. Bill N.
I just used the standard Iron Barrel throttle cable. I don't see why the need for something else.
For the same reason you have the smaller battery, missing side covers, no catch can, opened the exhaust/intake --> You can't stop tinkering!! ... just like me Talked to Sudco... just call them and they will handle for you. Or you can use a local dealer to do on your behalf.
Did you need to retard your S Cams intake cam by a tooth to avoid contact with the piston, or not?
Did you put the silicone sealer on the manifold/head joint instead of a gasket?
Would a retarded timing impact the cold start in such a way? The Harris Scrambler was also retarded 1 tooth I believe.... Did see anything like my situ.
Thanks again Paul. Very good information... Reminds me to not over think / over engineer and focus - think basics.
If you are ordering from Sudco anyway, then get their Motion Pro cable, called "Enfield Throttle Cable" Part number 021-947.Great throttle cable, and worth the money.We use them on all the Fireballs with the TM32.
I'll be calling my local bike shop (30 mile round trip) again today to see if SUDCO 021-947 (Motion Pro) is in yet. It's been on order all winter. If NField Gear sells kits with Mikuni TM 32s & 34s, why don't they have any throttle cables? Does anyone know a Motion Pro PART number for the throttle cable that SUDCO sells as 021-947? I've been through cable nightmares before with others (throttle AND clutch & brake) & it looks like THIS project's cable is going to be another one. My big hope today is that the guy I talk to at Motion Pro can immediately relate the SUDCO number to his Motion Pro number. This is what I should have done from the beginning, but I was too focused on SUDCO.
I had the same issue. I had the wrong cable sent to me by SUDCO's. They took it back. I did the next best thing: a stock RE clutch cable from CMW. It works just fine.
I don't NEED a clutch cable. I need a throttle cable with a stock RE (AVL) throttle end & a Mikuni TM-32 carburetor end. The TM-32 is totally different in every way from the stock Mikuni BS-29 & the stock cable housing, adjusters & carb entry are different.
My bad. I meant stock iron barrel throttle cable. Is something wrong with your stock AVL throttle cable .......or does it look like it wont work?
Or fly to Compton &offer to blow somebody & that would be a cosmically dangerous thing to do
Another update... went out on the P6. 1/8 to 1/4 and then to 1/2 is much better; no loss of acceleration. But... i rolled on to 3/4 to 7/8, then rolled off... BANG. God almightly backfire thru the exhaust. (Scared the sh*t out of soccer mom SUV... they rolled up all the windows ) There are no intake leaks or exhaust leaks. Do I interpret this as slightly lean at that throttle? My plugs are showing a nicer grayish color at 1/4 to 1/2 on the insulator; The ring indicating fuel mixture is slightly too sooty... which i think is a pilot still too rich.
Question for TM 32 'practitioners' How much do the needle jet and needle overlap between 1/4 and 1/2? I've seen the VM curves and get that the carb is mostly on the jet at 1/4 and then transitions onto the needle (so to speak) more towards 1/2. Are the VM and TM about the same? Why I ask.... So I thought I was too lean between 1/4-1/2, so I move the clip one richer. Still didn't like the performance, so I shimmed it. Result? Sotty sotty plug. Black. Also noticed lots of hesitation and began to identify this as a rich surge. Ok, I read the bike wrong. Put clip on the 2nd leanest with a shim, and no rich surging... So, basically I'm nearly back where I started, except .5 clip leaner. P6, needle shimmed at 2nd from the top, 190 mains. So, if I change to a p4 needle jet, how much impact does that have at 1/8-1/4-1/2 if I leave the clip where it is now?Thank you for any and all insight.
1/4 to 1/3 is mostly jet1/3 to 2/3 is about even, jet + needle2/3 - 3/4 is mostly needle
Have you gotten better at dealing with needle changes with the TM-32? Do you have any hints for me when I get to that point? Do you do it on the engine with the tank removed? I'm thinking it's easier to remove the carb to make needle changes. No?
Thanks Ace. So, if im getting this, switching to one jet leaner would require the needle to move a bit richer for good 1/3 to 2/3 performance. Outside temps may also impact this as well (summer v winter for example). Am I correct, generally?
DanB - Are you absolutely 100% positive you have your timing dialed in correctly?
hi guys any help would be great to jet a tm32. I have a 2008 electra with k&n filter and royal enfield classic exhaust system and alloy manifold from Ace.
yes I saw you were using the S cams,I would think they make quite a difference but it is a starting point.
If you read thru this thread you'll see where I started and where im at now. Have you removed the hot tube from the exhaust? I'm similar to your setup, with the hot tube removed and the air box opened up. I am using the S cams; not sure how they impact the jetting overall from stock.
Hey 2CV. I like your new title 'North America's Fastest AVL'! So far, I just pull the tank to get to the carb on the engine. For change needle settings, I just rotate the carb slightly to the timing chest side of the bike, and pull the cable / slide assembly off the top. The i compress the spring and release the cable; the slide just comes off and the spring releases itself! It's easy to get off; To get it back on, you need to compress the spring with all the fixings in place on the cable plate, and re-attach to the slide. Once the cable is on the slide, it's easy. It's just the spring that is a b*tch (I gave up on the zip ties - more trouble that its worth!). I do the same to change the needle jet, except I pull the bowl and main jet, and then lift it out the top; no need to mess with the spring... I've gotten quick at it. Yesterday I changed twice; gotten down to about 20 minutes, with minimal swearing. But there is a learning curve!
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