[R1200RTMyP51]

Greetings everyone from Chocolatetown USA.
About 2 weeks ago I impulse-purchased an 04 Military model that was on ebay & located in GA.  I trailered it back, got it registered & inspected, and have put a few hundred miles on it.  I wanted to post some observations, and more importantly a few questions.
Observations:
1.) Why doesn't every bike have a neutral finder?  Love it (when I remember to use it).
2.) MUST remember to shut off the fuel when I'm done riding, or maybe a block from home.
3.) Top speed is 72 downhill.  Not bad since I weigh 220.
4.) The gas tank gasket (cork?) crumbled the 1st time I opened the tank.  Now fuel sloshes all over when I put it on the center stand or come to a 'quick' stop.  Frustrating.  I've ordered a replacement tank cap from India off of ebay.

QUESTIONS:
1.) When I take a hand off of the handlebars, but especially when I take both off I get a mean tank slapper going.  I know it's not a good idea to take both off, but I figured if it's doing it on decel with one hand, it would be worse with both lifted an inch off the bars, and it is.  What's this all about?
2.) The paint is peeling pretty badly off the case.  Normal?
3.) When I first checked the oil it didn't even reach the dipstick, so I added some 20W50 non-synthetic that I use in my BMW.  Should I do a complete change?  Where do you get the little tampon filters and gaskets from?
4.) False neutral in between 2nd - 3rd…like 75% of the time!  Normal?
5.) Idle is faster at a stop light after I've ridden for a few miles than when I first started out.  Normal?
6.) Downshifting is damn near impossible.
7.) While the bike only had 3700 miles, it is (obviously) 10 years old.  What should I do maintenance-wise while it's still warm weather?  It passed inspection, so I know the basics are "okay."  I didn't receive any maintenance logs, but the bike has been pretty well cared for.

That's it for now!  Thanks in advance.  Loving my RE.
-Scott
Hershey, Pa

[ROVERMAN]

Hi man, let me take a crack at this: You can make a much better fuel cap gasket out of gasket making material from an auto parts store.
As far as oil goes. Change oil and filter(hot, filters can be obtained from Nfield gear). Do not overfill! Use any good motorcycle specific 20/w/50 oil. I used to use Castrol 4T.
I used to check mine hot 10-15 min after shut down. Aim for mid way between marks,no higher. Also make sure you leave the piston on or near TDC to minimize wet sumping,or you will be very smokey at cold start.
The idle issue may be down to fine tuning the 28mm Micarb. Once you have done that then buy a 30mm flatslide carb. .
Read every post you can on this site about the LH shift 4 speed. Then you will come to an understanding with your gearbox.Problems are mostly down to user error.
I don't know at what speed you have a tank slapper but it should not happen. Check all the usual suspects, especially the steering head bearings.
A search for specific issues on this site is gold! No question is a dumb question!
Welcome and good luck. Ride safe, smile.
Roverman.

[Blltrdr]

If you don't have a manual I would get the Snidal and factory manual. The 4 spd takes some time to learn the adjustments. There are quite a few so the Snidal manual is a must. You might check youtube, there are some maintenance vids you can watch. Some of the vids are from India with some interesting repair techniques that should be avoided since most owners in the US have access to a large assortment of proper tools.

Your shake could be the steering head. Get the front wheel off the ground and move forks forward and backwards to detect play.

Just keep asking questions. Plenty of good advise here. Most newbies can work their way through most problems with this forums help. There are a few other forums you can join also.

Good luck with your new ride.

[baird4444]

Good choice, you are in for a lot of fun; and wrenching....
Tank gasket- just cut a new one from a neoprene source. I had a friend in
a printing factory give one of the used "blankets" which was impervious to
solvents and made a great gasket. Also look at the top lip of the fill hole; any paint turds on it? Slice them off for a flush fit.

1. tank slapper- check head bearings and front tire inflation and
massive out of balance; other than that always keep at least 1 hand on bars at all times....
2. Pick a geographical spot like that last stop sign and just make it routine.
3. Oil should be checked after a bit of a ride. Park on center stand and check a couple minutes after shutoff; maybe after gassing? Usually the full mark will be to full; usually 3/4 will be the happy spot. Any more will prolly be blown out when running WFO. just a reminder, these things aren't highway cruisers, more like country plodders...
4. When shifting be deliberate with the foot shifter and do not release the clutch till you are done wit your foot...  it will never be perfect, the bike will train you!!
5. yea, that is why that BIG knurled knob on the left is used to set the idle. Remember to make the changes while you're throttled up a little. It is setting the lower level of the slide; very basic but ya gotta remember this is a 1955 design....
6. yea, might be... yer not going to do a lot of motor braking.... but it does sound like your clutch could use a touch of adjustment. below is the best process for getting the clutch right.
7. you're just about broke in....   go easy and learn the machine.
check your pm's - Mike
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I have found the clutch adjustment very very fine... A difference of 1/8 of a turn on the adjustment nut makes the difference between slip and drag. Make sure that you cable is not kinked, well lubricated, and runs as straight as you can possible achieve. Do not over fill the primary case with oil; just enough oil to cover the bottom run of the chain on the clutch chain wheel. Do not use engine oil! Loosen off the cable adjuster, adjust the push rod clearance so that it just touches the rod, back it of 1/8 of a turn and carefully tighten the lock nut. Then take up the slack in the cable.
 Assuming that your plates are still serviceable,
 if it still slips, back the adjuster off another 1/8 of a turn. If it drags when hot, increase by 1/8 of a turn.

[single]

Lose that wobble.It may fire up at a high speed,do not laugh.There is a reason for it,some where.Mite check the wheel(chain)alignment,front to rear.Loosen all the front wheel fastening bolts to let all that lot "relax".Retighten all a little at a time.Push down on the handle bars, while all is loosened up, afew times,then tighten.Plus all of the previous instructions.
We are all waiting for rookies to show up to unleash an avalanche of advise on,so make our day.
We will give you everything.Except pity.