Author Topic: s cams  (Read 47764 times)

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TejK

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Reply #75 on: February 27, 2014, 05:09:17 pm
BW,
The cams are the best thing for making the bike go like a bullet.

I also.noticed that after putting back the BS32 carb on my bike the low rpm torque seems much improved as compared with the TM flatslide. The bike actually does power wheelie in the first if I pop the clutch. However the bike's top end has dropped with this carb. Do CV carbs help boost low end torque? 

Secondly, once the rpms cross 4000 the clutch starts to slip despite having stronger Endurance clutch springs installed !! Is there  way to improve the AVL clutch with use of better springs or different clutch plates ?  I did run the bike without the oil in the primary side as a test and that stops the slip. But I don't think that is a solution. Any suggestions from AVL members with S cams will be helpful. Thanks.


Bill Harris

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Reply #76 on: February 27, 2014, 11:07:12 pm
BW,
The cams are the best thing for making the bike go like a bullet.

I also.  noticed that after putting back the BS32 carb on my bike the low rpm torque seems much improved as compared with the TM flatslide.  The bike actually does power wheelie in the first if I pop the clutch.  However the bike's top end has dropped with this carb. Do CV carbs help boost low end torque? 

Secondly, once the rpms cross 4000 the clutch starts to slip despite having stronger Endurance clutch springs installed !!  Is there  way to improve the AVL clutch with use of better springs or different clutch plates?  I did run the bike without the oil in the primary side as a test and that stops the slip. But I don't think that is a solution.  Any suggestions from AVL members with S cams will be helpful.  Thanks.

TejK,

If your clutch is adjusted correctly, try F type ATF in your primary.  I use this in the Harris Scrambler and get no clutch slippage at all, pulling hard at any RPM.  This on the stock clutch with over 35,000 miles on it.

Royal Enfield people are good people

Cheers,
Bill   


TejK

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Reply #77 on: March 04, 2014, 03:42:03 pm
Thank You for the reply Bill.
Appreciate the tip on the ATF F type. I will work on the bike this weekend and clean up the clutch side before replacing the oil with ATF. Will update once I get to it.

Did you have any cam-follower wearing out issues with you bike (using the AVL cam followers) ? The exhaust follower wore out so I had replaced both recently, however, it seems like the followers are again starting to wear out again.

Thanks,
Tej


ace.cafe

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Reply #78 on: March 04, 2014, 04:27:43 pm
Try using motorcycle oil with an off-road rating, or oil with about 1200 ppm ZDDP(zinc and phosphorous additive). The recent oil formulas have lower ZDDP in them because that helps catalytic converter life in cars. The ZDDP is needed for wear resistance in vintage flat tappet systems like we have because of high loading in that area. Modern vehicles have roller tappets which don't wear as much because they roll. Cams and tappets in flat tappet engines need more of the ZDDP additive. 1200 ppm is good. It doesn't need more than that. This has been a known issue in vintage engines for a number of years now, since the oil formulas were changed.
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Bill Harris

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Reply #79 on: March 04, 2014, 05:30:27 pm
Thank You for the reply Bill.
Appreciate the tip on the ATF F type. I will work on the bike this weekend and clean up the clutch side before replacing the oil with ATF. Will update once I get to it.

Did you have any cam-follower wearing out issues with you bike (using the AVL cam followers) ? The exhaust follower wore out so I had replaced both recently, however, it seems like the followers are again starting to wear out again.

Thanks,
Tej

Tej,

I have noticed no apparent wear of the cam-followers in the Harris Scrambler.  I did break an exhaust cam-follower some time ago when I had the stock cams in the bike.  For the engine lubricant I use 20W-50  Amsoil with high zinc.  This oil is a synthetic and has about 1500 ppm of zinc and phosphorous additives.  Whatever oil you use, it's very important that it has zinc and phosphorous in it for your tappers, just like ace.cafe said.

If your clutch plates are good, and you have F type ATF in your primary, and you continue to have clutch slippage, you can try Barnett Friction plates.  The Barnett plates are much better than the stock plates.  When I need new plates I'll get Barnett.  I use a full quart of ATF in my primary.  Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Bill       
« Last Edit: March 04, 2014, 07:43:25 pm by Bill Harris »


TejK

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Reply #80 on: March 09, 2014, 02:54:43 pm
Hi Ace, Bill,
You maybe be right on with the oil - with the old cast iron engine getting phased out its getting harder to get engine oil specifically for the 'Bullet' so I have been using 20W50 which is meant for petrol car engines.

Will adding an oil additive like STP help. I will definitely use a high Zinc /PH oil after I manage to replace the followers with new ones.

Thank You.


High On Octane

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Reply #81 on: March 09, 2014, 03:21:08 pm
Hi Ace, Bill,
You maybe be right on with the oil - with the old cast iron engine getting phased out its getting harder to get engine oil specifically for the 'Bullet' so I have been using 20W50 which is meant for petrol car engines.

Will adding an oil additive like STP help. I will definitely use a high Zinc /PH oil after I manage to replace the followers with new ones.

Thank You.

Yes, STP Oil Additive is very high in ZDDP and would be a good additive to use.  I generally use RotellaT 15w-40 as it is blended with high amounts of ZDDP from the factory.  But if for whatever reason I use regular car oil in my crankcase, I will add about a 1/3 of a bottle of STP Oil Additive to get the ZDDP in there.

Scottie J
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Bullet Whisperer

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Reply #82 on: March 09, 2014, 07:05:32 pm
We use Valvoline VR1 in 20/50 grade in our Enfield race bikes, with no other additives and no problems. The other bikes get Morris's 20/50, which is cheaper, but still very good.  ;) [ I don't know about availability of either of these products worldwide, though]
 B.W.
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf

http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/scripts/prodview.asp?idcat=114&idProduct=251
« Last Edit: March 09, 2014, 07:10:40 pm by Bullet Whisperer »


High On Octane

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Reply #83 on: March 09, 2014, 07:35:58 pm
VR1 used to be available at Advance Auto but I believe they discontinued it shortly before I left there.  Auto Zone may still sell it tho.

Scottie J
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


Bill Harris

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Reply #84 on: March 09, 2014, 08:24:48 pm
BW,

What octane do you use in your 500 9.2:1 compression AVL engines?

Cheers,
Bill
« Last Edit: March 09, 2014, 08:28:47 pm by Bill Harris »


Bullet Whisperer

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Reply #85 on: March 09, 2014, 09:48:58 pm
BW,

What octane do you use in your 500 9.2:1 compression AVL engines?

Cheers,
Bill
Hi Bill,
 I will check next time I visit the local filling station, but I know it is their cheapest, most basic unleaded that I use in pretty much everything - including an R.E. Crusader I tuned a few years back which was just shy of 13:1 cr. This machine ran fine on it, despite being earmarked to use methanol, so this was a big, but very welcome surprise !
 B.W.


DanB

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Reply #86 on: March 18, 2014, 04:51:11 pm
Finally, finally got around to installing the cams. 



Couple of hiccups:
1.  For the life of me, cant find the timing marks on the pinion!!  Had to mark it myself based on TDC and original cam locations.
2.  Previous owner used some type of space aged gray goo as gasket material.  Tooks multiple hours to get all that crap off!!
3.  Reached for my new gasket and found out its the wrong one!  Waiting on CMW for a replacement. 

No valve/piston interference noticed & the original push rod adjusters fit nicely, so thats good.  And the exhaust decomp/lifter came out easy (fiddly tho! Good luck 2CV getting that thing back on).

Things to still do: 
- Install TM32
- New drag bars
- New DID chain

Hopefully it'll all be done before the RE One Ride on the 6th!
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TejK

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Reply #87 on: March 19, 2014, 05:59:21 am
Finally, finally got around to installing the cams. 

Couple of hiccups:
1.  For the life of me, cant find the timing marks on the pinion!!  Had to mark it myself based on TDC and original cam locations.


Hi Dan,
the timing mark on the pinion generally gets covered by the oil pump worm. You can unscrew the lock nut and you will be able to see the mark.
Happy Bulleteer-ing !!

Regards,
Tej


TejK

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Reply #88 on: March 19, 2014, 06:02:27 am
TejK,

If your clutch is adjusted correctly, try F type ATF in your primary.  I use this in the Harris Scrambler and get no clutch slippage at all, pulling hard at any RPM.  This on the stock clutch with over 35,000 miles on it.

Royal Enfield people are good people

Cheers,
Bill

Hi Bill,
I finally open up the clutch, cleaned it, adjusted the timing chain and added the ATF to the Primary.

The clutch has definetly improved with the clutch engaging quite positively now. Haven't found any slip after using the ATF. I couldn't find the F type and am using the A type ATF which was available.

Thanks Again !


High On Octane

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Reply #89 on: March 19, 2014, 11:54:19 am

........The clutch has definetly improved with the clutch engaging quite positively now. Haven't found any slip after using the ATF. I couldn't find the F type and am using the A type ATF which was available.........

Type A?!   ???
2001 Harley Davidson Road King