Author Topic: Ace assisting Bullet Whisperer racing effort  (Read 124613 times)

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72westie

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Reply #90 on: January 25, 2014, 03:48:36 am
Hey BW,
Any chance you have a spare set of featherbed mounts laying around? I have a modified slimline sitting in my shop. It's just waiting to get something tossed into it. 
2001 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Race Bike:
2008 Ahrma Classic 60's #1 Plate
2009 AMA Vintage 50's #1 Plate
2010 AMA Vintage 50's #1 Plate
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Bullet Whisperer

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Reply #91 on: January 25, 2014, 09:04:01 am
Hey BW,
Any chance you have a spare set of featherbed mounts laying around? I have a modified slimline sitting in my shop. It's just waiting to get something tossed into it.
Hi Westie,
 As you probably realise, our machine is currently in bits so it is a good time to take photos of our engine plates etc, if that would help? At a push, I suppose I could even draw around them for you, but our frame loop is shorter than standard, so, unless you cut yours down, changes would be required. Don't forget that I also cut the oil filter housing off the timing cover, to mount the engine nearly 2" lower than would otherwise have been possible and made a remote filter work in place of the original.
 Cyrusb - I don't know what you mean by 'safety wire', but whatever it is, we don't need one here.
 B.W.


ace.cafe

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Reply #92 on: January 25, 2014, 09:46:22 am
Safety wire is required in most US racing to keep bolts and nuts from backing off. The bolt heads and nuts are angle drilled across two flats and small gauge wire run thru, and the tied to a fixed piece nearby. I think it is a vestige from before thread locking compound existed.
We also require belly pan catch pans which can hold all the engine oil, in case of a hole in the engine.
They won't let you on the track without these things in the US.
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Bullet Whisperer

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Reply #93 on: January 25, 2014, 10:11:49 am
Aha, I misunderstood - lockwire - yes, we use that in abundance, for some reason I was thinking of those wires attatched to the rider that kill the engine when a rider comes off! My mistake, sorry  ::)
 B.W.


72westie

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Reply #94 on: January 25, 2014, 11:11:46 am
I had forgotten about the oil filter mod. The frame I have has had the top frame loops cut off and a central backbone installed. Modifying this frame would not hurt it's originality at all. Hmm, maybe I could raise it up slightly to clear the oil filter.
2001 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Race Bike:
2008 Ahrma Classic 60's #1 Plate
2009 AMA Vintage 50's #1 Plate
2010 AMA Vintage 50's #1 Plate
http://www.bgmotorcycle.com


High On Octane

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Reply #95 on: January 25, 2014, 02:11:32 pm
Aha, I misunderstood - lockwire - yes, we use that in abundance, for some reason I was thinking of those wires attatched to the rider that kill the engine when a rider comes off! My mistake, sorry  ::)
 B.W.

BW - You MIGHT able to answer this, but may be irrelevant due to us living in different countries.  When you lock/safety wired you bike were you required to wire every single nut and stud that bolts the engine cases together?  Also, when doing this, you drill thru the nut AND stud, correct?  Curious as this is officially my first race vehicle build and new to having to use safety wire.  I'm thinking I'm going to need a few new drill bits to accomplish this task.

Scottie
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


72westie

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Reply #96 on: January 25, 2014, 03:26:52 pm
For WERA and Ahrma, they have in the rulebook what needs to be wired up. On our bike, there are things wired that don't need to be, but it gets us through tech quicker. For the land speed stuff you are doing, read the rulebook and follow it to the T. I am sure they will point out missing things.
2001 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Race Bike:
2008 Ahrma Classic 60's #1 Plate
2009 AMA Vintage 50's #1 Plate
2010 AMA Vintage 50's #1 Plate
http://www.bgmotorcycle.com


cyrusb

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Reply #97 on: January 25, 2014, 03:36:38 pm

 Cyrusb - I don't know what you mean by 'safety wire', but whatever it is, we don't need one here.
 B.W.
Ah, Just asked because I don't see any in the pics.
« Last Edit: January 25, 2014, 03:42:04 pm by cyrusb »
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Bullet Whisperer

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Reply #98 on: January 26, 2014, 02:35:06 pm
BW - You MIGHT able to answer this, but may be irrelevant due to us living in different countries.  When you lock/safety wired you bike were you required to wire every single nut and stud that bolts the engine cases together?  Also, when doing this, you drill thru the nut AND stud, correct?  Curious as this is officially my first race vehicle build and new to having to use safety wire.  I'm thinking I'm going to need a few new drill bits to accomplish this task.

Scottie
Hi Scottie,
 I drill through just the flats on the nuts or bolt heads - usually in through one flat and out through the one next to it. A drill of about 1.5 mm works well for me and I start by drilling straight in at 90 degrees to the flat and tilt the drill once I have gone in by about 1 mm, so that the drill is pointing at where I want it to come out and that is the job done. It is just as easy to do this job free hand with a pistol drill and a vice, as it is to use a pillar drill, I have found.
 The only parts we have to secure are things like drain plugs, the screw in oil strainer plugs, rocker feed unions, oil filter cap nut [350 only for us], the spin on oil filter element on the 500 has a large 'Jubilee' type clip around it, with lockwire going through it and onto a nearby mounting stud, primary cover nuts - even on the dry clutch 500 and the gearbox fill and drain plugs. There may be one or two more that I have missed here, but that's about it in general.
 Don't forget to trim and tidy any stray ends of any lockwire you use and tuck them in out of the way - scrutineers really hate getting cuts from it, when feeling around under an engine, as I have witnessed on occasion, though not from our machines, I hasten to add  ;)
 B.W.


High On Octane

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Reply #99 on: January 26, 2014, 03:14:01 pm
BW - Can you please post a couple pics of examples of how you wired things?  I don't want to screw this up.  I'd be pissed to build this bike, drive all the way to Utah only to be denied because I didn't wire my bolts correctly.    :-\

Scottie
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


Bullet Whisperer

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Reply #100 on: January 26, 2014, 04:36:45 pm
Scottie, I have just looked through all my pictures and there is nothing of much use on the lockwire front. I think this is because most of the 'close up' shots are taken in the workshop, when the lockwire is usually removed, or not yet fitted before racing.
 These two are about the best I could find:


High On Octane

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Reply #101 on: January 26, 2014, 05:00:18 pm
Good enough!  Thanks!  So it looks like you drill thru the "corner" of the head as opposed to directly thru the center of the head?

Scottie
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


Bullet Whisperer

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Reply #102 on: January 26, 2014, 05:19:54 pm
  So it looks like you drill thru the "corner" of the head as opposed to directly thru the center of the head?

Scottie
That's how I do it at any rate, Scottie and I've had no complaints so far  ;)
 B.W.


Arizoni

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Reply #103 on: January 26, 2014, 11:00:35 pm
Scottie J
Follow this link for information on lockwiring plus drawings of the correct way to position the wire.
http://www.byrongliding.com/technical/lockwiring/

Notice that in the drawings are for  normal right hand bolts that will unscrew if they rotate counterclockwise.

Notice that any attempt of the bolt or nut to unscrew in a counterclockwise direction will result in the twisted strands of lockwire going to the next bolt or nut to be stretched before the bolt head or nut could move.
This is the basis for deciding which side of the bolt/nut to put the lockwire on.

In the case of a large screw on item like a oil filter body, after the lockwire has gone thru the hole in the filter or filter housing tab, the twisted wire will be going around the housing clockwise until it reaches the lockwire hole in the static part.
Here again, any attempt of the housing to unscrew will try to stretch the twisted area of the lockwire.
Jim
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ERC

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Reply #104 on: January 26, 2014, 11:05:21 pm
They also make a tool that twists the wire up quickly and looks real nice. I worked with an aircraft guy that used them.  ERC
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