Well that is good to know Ace. Do you achieve the precise mating of the surfaces using engineers blue on the barrel spigot?
Ace, what about those that want to do this on the bench without the use of machining equipment. Shouldn't they blue the spigot top surface to make sure the head mates properly? I would suggest taking it to a machine shop but some like to do things themselves,
Well, I would say that the spigot should be lapped down first, until the head is almost touching the barrel gasket mating surface. Then clean off the paste and see how close to touching it is without any paste in there. Then continue to lap the spigot, cleaning off the paste each time you check it, until it just touches. This way, it only grinds the spigot down to the right height, and should clean up most/all irregularities in the process. If the gasket mating surfaces are warped, it will become obvious that the contact is not uniform all around. Then, lapping on all surfaces will be needed until it's all in the correct condition/relationship.
Hi Scottie, I torqued the bolts cold, then ran the engine for a few kms and re-torqued when warm. I assume hot torquing means with a hot engine/warm. Is that correct?
As Ace has stated, the torque spec that he recommends for the head nuts is 20 ft-lb instead of the 24 ft-lb spec the factory recommends. There have been many instances where the stud will distort the threads at the higher value.
Ace - If the threads going into the engine are prone to pulling out, couldn't this problem be alleviated by inserting steel helicoils in the engine case? Or would this make room for more problems?Scottie
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