Author Topic: avl performance kit????  (Read 12466 times)

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1 Thump

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Reply #15 on: October 17, 2013, 09:06:54 pm
im eager to learn.  although my 2007 avl electra only has 5000 miles on it.  im sure ill just wait until it goes to try a 535

BW's S-Cams and the ignition box are the most common and least labor intensive upgrades.


mattjohnson207

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Reply #16 on: October 18, 2013, 04:19:56 pm
Read Dampking 's reply about AVL crank.  My  '09  is.  apart, awaiting s- cams, piston out, con rod has seemingly a lot of left to right motion,  8,000 miles,had barrel honed to remove scoring , looks like pencil mark, sounded like marbles, machinist said rings were worn.
    I am a newbie and wouldn't know serious wear unless someone pointed it out to me.
     Am hesitant to reassemble the bike unless I know I have corrected the  marble sound and the cause of the barrel scoring,
       Addressing the weak link crank issue at this time sounds like a great idea as I don't want to go through another beautiful autum without my RE.  Code...lazy.
         I have no idea how to do this operation, except I know I will have to split the cases
          Can you point me in the right direction?
                                    Matt. Glendale Az


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Reply #17 on: October 18, 2013, 04:37:59 pm
Matt - Have you ever thought of swapping UCE con-rods? UCE and AVL conrods are pretty much same and works on AVLs too. Also, I have heard that UCE con-rods have the hardened race? or maybe the con-rod eye region is hardened? not sure tho. I am sure Tom will know more about this. But if you can swap it then it might work out well, might add 10k more kilometers to your cranks longevity.

Also, if you have friends in India, then you can get a Crank Assmebly shipped for very cheap. Here a crank costs around 150 dollars or so :P

To be honest, I don't mind changing or fixing bottom end after 30,000 kms or 40. But a reliable bike is always a better bike :)

By the way - Did the marble type sound start because of the barrel and piston being not in proper shape? I think that's my case too! :( Oh btw - UCE Barrels and Pistons can be swapped too. Why I am saying this? because AVL parts are expensive now and very hard to source.

Regards,
Sanket


mattjohnson207

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Reply #18 on: October 18, 2013, 08:40:24 pm
Thinks Dampking...something to digest, and price is important
         Matt


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Reply #19 on: October 18, 2013, 11:02:39 pm
I have been offline totally of late, due to computer problems and I have only just seen all of this. To reply to a couple of points raised, the Hitchcocks CDI [TCI] is the very same item I pioneered on the AVL testbed machine I tuned for them a few years back. It has a wider range from full retard to full advance, with an extra 4 degrees or so at either end of the scale. This gives lower odds for kickback on startup and a slight edge at medium to high engine speeds, especially if steps have already been taken with carb and exhaust modifications. The 'S' cams worked best when I was experimenting with cams and valve timings and they alone gave me an increase in speed from the high 80's to 103 mph, job done in the time it took to fit them. Hitchcocks took on the CDI units, eventually, so I dropped out from offering them - they had paid me for the development work after all - but they came up with their own cams, so I dont feel any guilt for offering the 'S' cams as an option. The latest batch is on its' way, just in case anyone was wondering, by the way!
 B.W.


armando_chavez

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Reply #20 on: October 19, 2013, 12:32:34 am
BW I have been trying to contact you I want a batch of a cams!!!


mattjohnson207

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Reply #21 on: October 19, 2013, 03:25:43 am
Sanket, £295 for a crank!  I will definitely need a friend in India LOL!
       Best,  Matt
« Last Edit: October 19, 2013, 03:40:18 am by mattjohnson207 »


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Reply #22 on: October 19, 2013, 10:42:53 am
295? That's madness. I will check with few friends in US and see how much and what all customs will demand. For sure it's going to be a fraction of what is being charged there.


ace.cafe

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Reply #23 on: October 19, 2013, 11:40:03 am
Don't forget that there will be a lot of shipping cost on that crank assembly. Probably at least $100 to ship it. But it still might be lower cost to buy it there.

Also, I would never buy an engine part off a street market in India. Most of the reject parts end up on the street, and there are a lot of back-alley reproduction parts which could be made of anything by anybody, and probably are.
Make sure it comes from an RE dealer. If it turns out to be junk, it will cost a fortune for return shipping cost(even if they accept returns), and then it's not a good deal at all. It all sounds wonderful until you get a piece of junk.
Buying from India is very often a roll of the dice, and you can get lucky, and you can also get burned. Caveat emptor.

If Sanket can work with a local friend to ensure that you get a good part that checks out before it's sent, then that is the safest way to buy parts from India.
 
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mattjohnson207

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Reply #24 on: October 19, 2013, 05:03:16 pm
I'm interested...
        Matt in Glendale  Arizona


mattjohnson207

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Reply #25 on: October 20, 2013, 06:13:03 pm
Measured my conrod side to side play;it's  1/8", so I understand I'm good for this rebuild,
    Sanket, I would like to have one on hand as I ride about 12,000 miles a year, and with the S cam upgrade, I'll be needing a new crank soon, I'll be doing my homework and be ready to install it  then!
          Matt


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Reply #26 on: October 20, 2013, 08:54:57 pm
Matt, let me talk to few guys and see. I know 2 of them who are very good and they can source any RE (OEM) part here in India.


ace.cafe

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Reply #27 on: October 20, 2013, 08:58:09 pm
Measured my conrod side to side play;it's  1/8", so I understand I'm good for this rebuild,
    Sanket, I would like to have one on hand as I ride about 12,000 miles a year, and with the S cam upgrade, I'll be needing a new crank soon, I'll be doing my homework and be ready to install it  then!
          Matt

The important thing is that there is no perceptible up/down play in that big end roller bearing.
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armando_chavez

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Reply #28 on: October 22, 2013, 05:30:31 pm
hey ace im no engine builder but i read somewhere that using a copper gasket to raise the deck height will help the "squish".

would something like the copper gaskets that hitchcocks supplies work?

http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-engine-cylinderhead


ace.cafe

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Reply #29 on: October 22, 2013, 06:12:06 pm
hey ace im no engine builder but i read somewhere that using a copper gasket to raise the deck height will help the "squish".

would something like the copper gaskets that hitchcocks supplies work?

http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-engine-cylinderhead

If the copper head gasket is thinner than the other head gaskets you use, then it might help, depending what your engine has presently for piston-to-head clearance. If it doesn't get the piston within less than .060" from the head, then it is not helping. There is no "almost" with squish. You are either in the squish zone or you are not.
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