[gashousegorilla]

All the fuses read zero resistance. One was a little iffy, so I replaced it with a new one, which did not help.

I disconnected the pump plug, and read the connection with a multimeter while I turned off the kill switch and hit the ignition. When the kill switch is turned off (with the ignition on), the voltage goes up to a little over 12v for a few seconds and then back to zero. When I hit the ignition switch, the voltage reads a little under 12v as long as the switch is depressed.

This makes me think that the next step is to take the pump off so that I can
a) get a reading from the pump circuit on the pump side, and
b) connect the pump to 12v DC and see if it spins

Does that sound right? I don't see a cutoff on the fuel line in to the pump, is there a way to disconnect it without spilling gas all over myself? I've been working off a PDF of the manual from the RE website up until now, is there a recommended resource for text or video guides to replacing the fuel pump if it comes down to that?

Thanks again.

   Ahhhhh.....    You sure you don't have that backwards ?   With the pump still plugged in do the test. Use a stout sewing needle or a paper clip to  insert in the plug , so you can attach your probes from your meter.   One on the hot wire and one at the ground wire .... At the plug.  Key on..... THEN  flip the kill switch on.  You should get a short burst of voltage....around 12v.... as the the pump relay kicks in and out.  THEN  hit the start button.... you should see voltage again as long as you hold the start button...... a little less, because now the starter is robbing some of that juice.

   If this checks out, you have confirmed your power and your ground right to the pump...  And the juice is going through your relay.

   And no need to remove the pump to check it. unless you feel more comfortable doing so.  Disconnect the plug from the harness. And attach test leads to the pins of the pump. Hook up your your ground side first to a remote test battery. Then hook up the hot to the pin on the pump.  With your hot test lead, just touch the hot side of the remote test battery.  The pump should come on.......

[Ducati Scotty]

You can disconnect the fuel line, only what's in the line will flow out and you can catch it with a rag.  A 5/16" or 1/4" vacuum cap will seal it just to be sure nothing seeps out.  Take great care not to break the fuel spout off. 

Scott

[gashousegorilla]

  BTW linearB,  We are checking for voltage, both hot and ground ON the plug to make sure the both wires are good.  After looking closer at the schematic.... it doesn't appear that the ECU is ground switching in the case of the pump. Sorry for the confusion.......

[linearB]

I'm sure this is another obvious question, but I'm not clear on how to connect the meter probes to the plug while it's connected to the pump; if I was going to use pins or paperclips I'd need to make holes in the plastic plug housing for them to go through.

[gashousegorilla]

I'm sure this is another obvious question, but I'm not clear on how to connect the meter probes to the plug while it's connected to the pump; if I was going to use pins or paperclips I'd need to make holes in the plastic plug housing for them to go through.

 Insert the pins or paper clips along side the wire, where the wire goes into the plug.  Push them in deep, so they make contact . Then just hook up your test leads from your meter to the paper clips or pins that you use.... Test leads with alligator clips makes it easier.

[singhg5]

I am wondering why MIL does not stay on indicating fuel pump circuit not working ? I cannot see video very well either due to some ads in it.

[gashousegorilla]

I am wondering why MIL does not stay on indicating fuel pump circuit not working ? I cannot see video very well either due to some ads in it.

   I was wondering that as well........  It could be because in the video, he is not letting the bike sit long enough for the mil light to pop on, before he hits the starter again.  There is a slight delay before the mil light will come on after a failed start. 

[Arizoni]

I'm pretty sure the ECU checks to see if the fuel pump relay is operating (error code= 4 long, 1 short blinks) but if that's all it checks and the relay is  working, the problem may still exist.

[Ducati Scotty]

I disconnected the pump plug, and read the connection with a multimeter while I turned off the kill switch and hit the ignition. When the kill switch is turned off (with the ignition on), the voltage goes up to a little over 12v for a few seconds and then back to zero. When I hit the ignition switch, the voltage reads a little under 12v as long as the switch is depressed.

Sounds like the voltage to the pump is working just like it's supposed to.  On with the power, then off, then on again when the start button is pushed.  SOunds like either the connectors to the pump are bad or the pump itself is bad.

Scott

[gashousegorilla]

I'm pretty sure the ECU checks to see if the fuel pump relay is operating (error code= 4 long, 1 short blinks) but if that's all it checks and the relay is  working, the problem may still exist.

   He may have a  4-1 code and a 3-3 code..... I'm just trying to get him to confirm voltage at the pump , when he should have it, and checking on the wires to the pump.  It may matter if he say....checks for voltage by putting the positive side of his meter on the pump hot wire, but holds the negative side of the meter on the frame.  Tying to get him to confirm the ground is good at the pump plug and Checking the circuit before he lays money out for a pump he probably doesn't need.   Your right..... It's unlikely the pump, but possible. And easy to eliminate.

 The ECU switches ground on to the pump relay..... and if that can't happen. You would get a pump code. Your right....He says his relay is pulling in, so the ECU must be switching it on. But.... he should see that voltage at the wires on the pump plug.  And if he does?.... It could eliminate a whole bunch of checking, that don't need to be checked.


 

Sounds like the voltage to the pump is working just like it's supposed to.  On with the power, then off, then on again when the start button is pushed.  SOunds like either the connectors to the pump are bad or the pump itself is bad.

Scott

  Yup it does..... or a bad ground at or to the plug. That's why I'm asking him to check and confirm it this way.

[Ducati Scotty]

Yes, important to check the ground too.

[gashousegorilla]

Yes, important to check the ground too.

  Very........ Especially on this Japanese plastic,rectangular ground switching voltage interpreter.

    Lets see what he comes up with checking this way.  A lot has to happen before he gets voltage to that pump..... Then take it from there.

[linearB]

Thanks for the additional clarity! I got stuck doing a lot of work today and haven't had a chance to mess with this any more, but I will take a reading from the plug while it's connected tomorrow if not tonight.

[gashousegorilla]

Thanks for the additional clarity! I got stuck doing a lot of work today and haven't had a chance to mess with this any more, but I will take a reading from the plug while it's connected tomorrow if not tonight.

   Stick with it.. You'll get it, and hopefully save yourself some money along the way.

 So you understand whats going on...... With the key on and then flipping on the  kill switch, you get that brief period of voltage. At that point the pump should come on for a brief period. The pump comes on for that short time to, pressurize the fuel line as the injector fires off a shot of fuel into the intake.  This helps the bike to start, when you go ahead and hit the start button and the ignition fires to lite off the mix.  Sort of like pulling a choke..... or ticking a carb, then kicking it over a couple of times to wet the cylinder, like you would on an old bike. 

  When you hit the start button.... AFTER waiting for the pump to come on, then shut off...... The pump will come back on, AND your voltage !   And stay on as your bike starts and you release the start button. Now the pump runs continuously , to keep the fuel line pressurized as the injector is spraying away.  BUT, if your bike doesn't start.... Your only going to get voltage as long as you hold the start button. Which, you should not do for too long if the bike doesn't start..... Just kills the battery.

[ROVERMAN]

For what is is worth, my 2013 B5 has no MIL or pump prime when the sidestand is down, but will crank.