Author Topic: Hold the mayo.  (Read 3461 times)

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OleO

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on: October 07, 2013, 08:15:41 pm
What a difference since installing a duckbill! The mayo is gone. Gone. Removed the catch can, plugged the hose from the timing chest, added a duckbill to the stock hose that ran from the crankcase to the catch can and routed it up and over to just in front of the primary drive sprocket. It points toward the sprocket and mists it with any oil mist that may come out. Looped it up, toward the front of the engine, and down toward the drive sprocket, with a nylon wire tie to the lead heading toward the points. Total parts count: 3. 1)Duckbill from CMW. 2)Brass hose barb, from Ace Hardware, to splice the duckbill to the hose from the crankcase. 3) A black, nylon wire tie to attach the duckbill to the lead to the points. What a simple job with dramatic results!
'06, Iron Barrel Military...rode 'er like
she was meant to be rid. Hope to, again.


boggy

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Reply #1 on: October 07, 2013, 10:08:45 pm
Good to hear someone is having luck with this.  Some folks have talked quite a bit about this in the AVL section with less success. 

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,12620.0.html

How long have you been running like this?
2007 AVL
2006 DRZ400SM


ace.cafe

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Reply #2 on: October 08, 2013, 04:58:04 pm
The key feature when doing this with the late model breather nipple on the oil tank is to run the breather hose straight up like a stand-pipe, and let just the mist and water vapor make it all the way over the top and down to the duckbill.

To actually get rid of all the mayo, it is required to bring the engine up to full operating temperature for a while, so that the water which is congealed into the oil can evaporate off into vapor and get blown out the breather.
But there is water in the air, and at night it can condense inside the engine case again, so it is a matter of getting rid of it, and it coming back again when temps drop below the dew point, anyway.
Home of the Fireball 535 !


OleO

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Reply #3 on: October 09, 2013, 08:15:59 pm
A correction. I wire-tied the looping crankcase breather
hose/duckbill to the lead from the alternator and not the
lead heading to the points. Much more secure. A heavier
lead to tie off to. The duckbill pointing at the drive sprocket
hasn't caused an oily mess that I've seen.

It seems the hose from the catch can to the back of
the airbox was virtually pinched shut from the time
I bought the machine new. Nothing was venting well.
Some substantial miles in hot weather, with the new
breather setup, was all it took to purge all goop.

I did, however, start the ball rolling after I modified the
breather and before I changed the oil and filter. I added
some Rislone to the oil for a couple of hundred miles prior
to the oil change. After 750, or so, miles, the crankcase
seems to be mayo-free.
'06, Iron Barrel Military...rode 'er like
she was meant to be rid. Hope to, again.


OleO

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Reply #4 on: October 26, 2013, 01:26:08 am
Oh yeah. I also plugged the hole in the back of the air
box where the hose from the catch can used to go.
'06, Iron Barrel Military...rode 'er like
she was meant to be rid. Hope to, again.


OleO

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Reply #5 on: October 31, 2013, 01:06:31 am
Well.... It was a LOT better during the warm weather.
Not a trace of mayo.

The cooler weather has brought back the unwanted condiment,
but it appears to be less than in the past. I think the duckbill
is doing it's thing.

Will have to see how much mayo accumulates when winter
sets in and riding season comes to an end.

I can't imagine the oil/water emulsion (mayo) is good for the
engine. What's the best solution for cold weather riding?
Drain the oil every week and boil out the water? Swap this
week's oil with what came out of the engine last week and
has been boiled? How would one get rid of the mayo flung
around in the crankcase? Fill the crankcase with 300 degree
oil until it pours out the dipstick hole? Then drain and fill to
the correct level?

I freaked out at the amount of water that came out when
I pulled the plug after cold weather riding last year. This is
what motivated me to install a duckbill.
'06, Iron Barrel Military...rode 'er like
she was meant to be rid. Hope to, again.


High On Octane

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Reply #6 on: October 31, 2013, 02:47:47 am
If you're having that big of a problem with condensation you must not be riding the bike long enough.  The biggest cause of the "mayo" is short trips.  Basically not letting the engine get hot enough for the condensation to boil out.  If you're just putting around town for less than 15-20 minutes at a time that's your problem.  You need to let the engine run long enough at full temp before shutting down to eliminate the mayo.

Scottie
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


OleO

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Reply #7 on: October 31, 2013, 06:11:09 pm
My daily commute is 20 miles in the AM and 20 in the PM.
With traffic and stoplights, about a 40 minute trip.
I'm not shy about twisting the throttle, so the pot's
usually boiling.

I'll have to see just how much mayo accumulates this
Fall/Winter. It appears the goo on the underside of the top
of the dipstick is far less than last year, so my concern
may be for naught.
'06, Iron Barrel Military...rode 'er like
she was meant to be rid. Hope to, again.


D the D

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Reply #8 on: October 31, 2013, 07:28:20 pm
Sometimes you're just stuck with it due to climate and nature of commuting.  Cleaning and early oil changes just become part of the routine.
'07 Iron Barrel Military (Deceased 14 September, 2013)
2014 Yamaha Bolt R Spec V-Twin
1975 XLCH


ace.cafe

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Reply #9 on: October 31, 2013, 07:49:16 pm
The condensation will come every time that the temperature drops below the dew point. It will condense on the metal inside the engine. It is simply a matter of vaporizing it off with a long enough ride each time.
Home of the Fireball 535 !


OleO

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Reply #10 on: November 02, 2013, 06:01:08 am
 That's the conclusion I've reached from reading all of the posts.
I'm sure my going the duckbill route will make a major improvement
over last season, especially after replacing a factory(?)-pinched
catch can to airbox hose.

Say.... I've got this vacuum pump.... could I pull a vacuum
in the crankcase after each ride to pull moisture out of the oil??
'06, Iron Barrel Military...rode 'er like
she was meant to be rid. Hope to, again.


High On Octane

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Reply #11 on: November 02, 2013, 01:58:22 pm
That's the conclusion I've reached from reading all of the posts.
I'm sure my going the duckbill route will make a major improvement
over last season, especially after replacing a factory(?)-pinched
catch can to airbox hose.

Say.... I've got this vacuum pump.... could I pull a vacuum
in the crankcase after each ride to pull moisture out of the oil??

Makes sense in theory but in reality the mayo is pretty sticky/messy crap.  I don't think putting vacuum to it will do anything but make a bigger oil mess.

This is just a thought.....  You said that you ride about 40 minutes to work, which for me in my climate and riding style is plenty of time to cook out any possible condensation.  Perhaps the mayo is having more to do with environmental attributes of your hometown than the bike itself.  What climate do you live in?  What is the average temp when you are riding when the mayo is occurring?  And what is your average RPM?  (Not KmPH or MPH but actual engine cruising speed)  I'm almost thinking maybe you just aren't getting the motor warm enough in your environment to actually prevent anything.

Scottie
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


D the D

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Reply #12 on: November 02, 2013, 04:53:01 pm
You'd need to maintain a vacuum of 27" HG or more  for at least half an hour.  If your engine is airtight enough to do it.  I'd be afraid of gaskets failing and creating leaks.  Especially where the case splits 'cause that's not an easy fix.
'07 Iron Barrel Military (Deceased 14 September, 2013)
2014 Yamaha Bolt R Spec V-Twin
1975 XLCH


Arizoni

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Reply #13 on: November 02, 2013, 07:55:56 pm
By riding in a lower gear the engine will heat up faster.

I guess there is a pretty big jump from 3rd to 4th in a 4 speed that might make doing this a bit of a problem but with a 5 speed transmission, just don't shift into 5th.

Running the engine in the lower gear will cost some extra fuel but it should get the oil up to a temperature that will drive the moisture out of it.

After the engine is nice and toasty then top gear can be used.
Jim
2011 G5 Deluxe
1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


OleO

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Reply #14 on: November 06, 2013, 10:20:05 pm
  The vacuum pump was just a humorous idea I'd never
really think of trying. I'm sure I'd create gasket trouble, not
to mention sucking unwanted stuff into the crankcase.

Temperature while riding this time of year is usually in
the 40s or 50s. Northern Illinois.

I'm never afraid to give 'er some throttle, so I'm sure
my pace isn't too slow.

I've been keeping an eye on the dipstick more than usual
lately, and am happy with what I've been seeing. While
some mayo has appeared, it's far, far less than last season.
It looks like the duckbill vent is working well. I think my
primary problem had been the factory(?)-pinched hose
from the catch can to the airbox. I'm sure the problem
would have been less severe, prior to the duckbill addition,
had I caught the pinched hose earlier in the game.
'06, Iron Barrel Military...rode 'er like
she was meant to be rid. Hope to, again.