[Sectorsteve]

Hi. Im just changing the fork oil on my 2012 C5. ive read conflicting things about different forks on different models/years etc. On mine, after you take the screws out of the top of forks, you are left with a rather large allen key bolt. I need to buy more allen keys as i dont have this size, but im assuming this is where i put the oil in???

It appears that at the bottom of the forks there is a smaller allen key bolt on each leg for draining the oil.  Ive been reading that some models require you to take the forks out to drain the oil, which seems ridiculous. Im just hoping i dont have to do that. its looking good for a simple drain and re fill.

[singhg5]

Ducati Scott had written in detail how to change fork oil in C5.

They can be drained as such but he can explain better whey they need to be taken off frame to fill them from top -

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,10813.0/all.html

[Sectorsteve]

what a bastard of a job for just changing fork oil...

[Sectorsteve]

seriously why dont they put decent fork oil in these things before they leave the factory - or just make a better system for replacing the crap.

[wildbill]

sectorsteve
don't rush into it - its a pretty big job and if something goes wrong you could put your bike of the road for several days.
jvs know how hard it is to get these screws out. talk it over with ducatty scotty

[JVS]

I've had the fork legs out three times, yes, three (3) times just to change the fork oil. Once you know the process, it barely takes 20 mins max to get the fork legs out, as long as you are prepared with the tools etc.

However, I haven't been able to get the old fork oil out and replace it with new. This is because I have been unable to get the 12mm reverse-thread top cap open. With superman strength applied, home made circular vice, heat and some love taps, those caps don't move at all. So I finally gave up and don't worry about it anymore. There are new fork legs on Ebay. Once the existing fork legs on my Enfield get quite bad or show/make any signs of negative performance, I will just buy new fork legs. People keep riding on stock forks for a long, long time.

The stock fork-oil isn't that bad. In some cases, yes, people have had less fork oil  from factory as compared to the recommended 195-200ml/leg. Changing the oil with 10w fork oil should provide some improvement, as reported by fellow members who've been able to change the fork oil on their newer C5 legged Enfields or previous Iron Barrels.

Over time, I've realised the factory fork oil isn't that bad, you can live with it. We've just become too accustomed to having BMW type suspension. The stock fork oil does the job. These bikes are taken over great lengths and various types of terrains in the Himalayas on stock fork oil. Other members have had success with changing the fork oil on models with the C5 forks, including Mattsz, Scotty, GSS and a few more I can't recall. I think Mattsz had almost 195ml of factory fork oil in his fork legs...

I also agree, RE should've left it at the older fork leg/oil changing system just like it is on the G5s. As you're well over 25,000km, it will be a good decision to get done with this job. Just follow Scotty's instructions, taking care of the front mudguard whilst taking it off, and you should be okay! Good luck 

[avandr]

Just thinking out aloud, would it be possible to bore a hole 0n the side & toward the bottom of each fork leg as a drain, tap a thread for a suitable screw to enable fork oil change ongoing? A lot easier than removal each time 

[JVS]

I think that has been brought up before in Scotty's original thread also. I had also been thinking of drilling the top 12mm cap to allow re-filling, and then loosening the bottom fork bolt to drain the oil. However, I think it is another hell of a job just to remove that bottom fork bolt as it is connected to the spring inside the fork-leg? You need an impact-wrench or something like that to get it properly out.

Scotty and other members will be able to tell us more of course.

[Roeland]

Hi,
I just removed the straight type fork legs and drained and re-filled from the bottom. I was also unable to remove the top of the forks.

[JVS]

Hi,
I just removed the straight type fork legs and drained and re-filled from the bottom. I was also unable to remove the top of the forks.

That is very encouraging! Thanks for sharing. Was it easy to remove the bottom bolts? How did you manage to do it, any need of impact wrench or so?

[Roeland]

Yes it was faily easy - if I recall correctly I did need a long type allen key socket. The refilling was a bit more tricky until I made up this contraption.

[gashousegorilla]

  If it helps.... What I do to loosen the top caps on the fork legs,  is to just crack them loose with an Allen key. With the slotted screws removed from the nachelle and while the legs are still in place .  THEN remove the legs with the already loosened top caps. They should come out easy then, and you don't have to wrestle with the legs in a vise or some such.

  The legs thread into the nachelle clockwise, and the top caps are counter clockwise. So just cracking the top caps loose a half a turn or should be no problem. I'm thinking that is why they designed the caps with a reverse thread.....

  As far as the bottom Allen head bolt on the lower leg, in the axle recess. You have to apply upward force, to compress the spring/piston and lower leg ,to add some tension inside so you can snap the bolt loose.  Pushing in with a tee handle allen wrench works, or an impact wrench makes it easy.

[Ducati Scotty]

Nice contraption Roeland!  There's more than one way to skin a cat

Scott

[JVS]

  If it helps.... What I do to loosen the top caps on the fork legs,  is to just crack them loose with an Allen key. With the slotted screws removed from the nachelle and while the legs are still in place .  THEN remove the legs with the already loosened top caps. They should come out easy then, and you don't have to wrestle with the legs in a vise or some such.

GHG,

I tried it that way as per Scotty's instructions, i.e. having the fork pinch bolts tight and loosening the top caps whilst they are in the nacelle. But, as the caps are so tight and ignorant  that even with the pinch bolts tightened, the whole leg starts to rotate in the nacelle if I try loosening the caps

As far as the bottom Allen head bolt on the lower leg, in the axle recess. You have to apply upward force, to compress the spring/piston and lower leg ,to add some tension inside so you can snap the bolt loose.  Pushing in with a tee handle allen wrench works, or an impact wrench makes it easy.

I feel so happy now because I have new hope of changing this fork oil !  Thanks to Roeland and yourself for clearing up how to get these bottom bolts out. That's why I love this forum. 

[gashousegorilla]

GHG,

I tried it that way as per Scotty's instructions, i.e. having the fork pinch bolts tight and loosening the top caps whilst they are in the nacelle. But, as the caps are so tight and ignorant  that even with the pinch bolts tightened, the whole leg starts to rotate in the nacelle if I try loosening the caps

I feel so happy now because I have new hope of changing this fork oil !  Thanks to Roeland and yourself for clearing up how to get these bottom bolts out. That's why I love this forum. 

   I hear ya JVS, Those top caps can be a recalcitrant PIA.... One of the craziest set ups, as far as changing fork oil goes...    Just a thought, but if your leg keeps turning clockwise, with your Allen wrench in the top cap. The treads on the legs should eventually bottom out inside the Nacelle and stop.  As you continue to turn the top cap clockwise , because of the back asswords thread.... it should loosen up for ya.  There should be a little space in there for you to do that.  I was just thinking that maybe your legs aren't threaded quite all the way up ?  Or maybe , the female treads for the leg in the Nacelle are tapped too deep, where you don't have that space to loosen the top cap?   Like I said... just an Idea for you.


  Another possible option for the top caps and lower bolts. And in stead of buying an expensive pneumatic or electric impact wrench.... Could be a impact driver. You can put an Allen head socket on it.  Or even a short extension and an Allen head socket. Set your direction, clockwise or counter clockwise, and give it a rap or two.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ImpactDriverWithBits.png