Author Topic: cable lubrication  (Read 8503 times)

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mattsz

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on: September 21, 2013, 12:39:17 pm
Ok, I know that this is MM101, but would some of you experienced guys tell me how you lube your clutch and throttle cables?

I have a can of cable lube that came with a little straw for application.  The straw doesn't fit in between the cable and the housing, so I end up spraying lots of lube everywhere else but into the housing.  I can wrap the whole works with a rag to keep the mess down, but then I just end up with a saturated rag.

I bought one of those cable lube devices, with a hole for the straw, that clamps onto the end of the cable, but the top end of the clutch cable has a large "sideways" barrel-end which doesn't fit into the device, and I have similar trouble getting to the handle bar ends of the throttle cables.  So I'm left making a big mess and not doing a very good lube job.

Any advice or tricks I should know?


ERC

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Reply #1 on: September 21, 2013, 01:04:21 pm
Loosen the cable and remove it, then you can do it. When you spray it in go easy, it still goes all over on the ones I've tried. I'm not sure I'm that experienced though.  ERC
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High On Octane

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Reply #2 on: September 21, 2013, 01:41:40 pm
+1  Remove the cable from the bike, hold a rag around the end of the cable housing and slowly squirt the oil into the housing.  Make sure that you are grabbing the cable end and sliding the cable up and down in the housing to make sure the oil is getting worked all the way thru.

Otherwise, this is the easy way.  People seem to really like them.  I've never used 1.
http://www.bikebandit.com/motion-pro-cable-luber

Scottie
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mattsz

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Reply #3 on: September 21, 2013, 03:17:54 pm
I have removed the cable and housing ends from the levers.

Scottie, this is just the style of cable luber I'm talking about - the upper end of the clutch cable doesn't fit.  The lower end is small enough, but gravity won't be my friend unless I completely remove the cable - or turn the bike upside down!

The clutch cable is easy to remove, but not the throttle cables.  This requires removing the tank...


singhg5

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Reply #4 on: September 21, 2013, 07:07:46 pm
Scottie, this is just the style of cable luber I'm talking about - the upper end of the clutch cable doesn't fit.  The lower end is small enough, but gravity won't be my friend unless I completely remove the cable - or turn the bike upside down!

The clutch cable is easy to remove, but not the throttle cables.  This requires removing the tank...

Lube the throttle cable from the right hand switch assembly through the hole on its floor. This is just my way of lubing them, without removing throttle cables from bike.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2OQ3Do65Es

Other tips -  Cut the tip of straw at an angle to bevel so that it can go in.

If all fails, buy a syringe and a needle from a pharmacy, fill it with lube of your choice and use the needle to feed through ferrule of cable.
 
« Last Edit: September 21, 2013, 07:18:14 pm by singhg5 »
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barenekd

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Reply #5 on: September 21, 2013, 07:16:48 pm
I use DriSlide that coms with a very small metal tube attached that will fit in the small space of the cable and housing. IT is not a spray can, the liquid just flows through the tube to the other end. The lube is molyD powder that is carried through with a thin carrier that dries in short order. It works extremely well and lasts a long time. Bicycle shops carry it and it's available on Ebay. Motorcycle shops used to carry it, but I guess doesn't have enough buttons and hi tech connections on it to sell and confound the modern buying public.
Don't forget to grease the cable ends with a bit of light grease.
+1 on the non removal of the throttle cables and tank. The DriSlide probe easily reaches down into the throttle cable housings
Bare

« Last Edit: September 21, 2013, 07:20:56 pm by barenekd »
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mattsz

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Reply #6 on: September 21, 2013, 07:23:53 pm
I use DriSlide...

The "Bike-Aid" or the "Multipurpose"?  The website says the multipurpose has graphite with rust and corrosion inhibitors...


barenekd

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Reply #7 on: September 21, 2013, 07:41:23 pm
Quote
The "Bike-Aid" or the "Multipurpose"?  The website says the multipurpose has graphite with rust and corrosion inhibitors...

I've got Bike-Aid and it says "Resists rust, dirt, and water"
Bare
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Arizoni

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Reply #8 on: September 22, 2013, 12:34:19 am
For the clutch cable I have the metal clamp with the rubber inside it that sort of seals the clutch cable so the can can blow the oil thru its tube into it.

My method for doing the clutch on my UCE is as follows:
1. Using a large adjustable wrench adjusted to fit the clutch lever on the left side side cover I turn the lever counter clockwise.  This allows me to slide the end of the cable out of the sheet metal clip.

At the left hand grip I pull the cable away from the grip housing.  This disengages the metal end from the housing allowing it to drop down.  Rotating the cable towards the front of the bike will turn the cable and its retaining cross pin so that both can be pulled out of the bottom of the lever.  There is a thin plastic piece covering part of this pin and it needs to be in the assembly so don't lose it.

With the cable free it is easy to pull the inner cable out far enough so the cross pin is sticking out one end of the metal oiler attachment and the outer sheath is just starting to enter the attachments split rubber sleeve.
With everything set up this way, I screw down the two thumb screws to tighten the rubber around the cable. 
Then its pretty easy to just stick the can's tube into the hole and push the button.

My oiler leaks a lot when I do this so I cover the whole thing with an old rag.
While squirting the oil in, it also helps to push the rubber bellows at the lower end of the clutch cable off of the threaded rod.  That allows the oil/propellent to blow thru the cable freely.

See Singhg5's video for the throttle cable. :)
Jim
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Blltrdr

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Reply #9 on: September 22, 2013, 08:14:36 pm
I use the cable lube tool. As Arizoni states it doesn't seal that well but they have a new tool that has two clamps instead of the single clamp model I have. I install the tool, clamp it down best I can then wrap a rag around the tool to help seal it better while I shoot in the lubricant. After I get as much lube in the cable as I can I then blast some compressed air into the hole on the tool to force the lubricant to the end of the cable. I find this works best to completely lubricate the cable from one end to the other.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


mattsz

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Reply #10 on: September 22, 2013, 08:25:34 pm
Thanks guys!

I'm away from home; I don't have my luber in front of me.  The handle-bar end of the clutch cable has a big barrel end that will not fit into my luber, I do remember that.  But now that you mention it, the metal part is open at both ends, isn't it?  The black rubber insert is open at one end and closed at the other -  I suppose I can slit the closed end so that I can have the ball end sticking out the back side...  I'll have to have a closer look again!


Blltrdr

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Reply #11 on: September 22, 2013, 08:53:04 pm
The barrel ferule sticks out the end of the tool. It then is tightened and the inner stepped rubber clamps around the outer cable sheathing and the cable itself. The clamping mechanism doesn't clamp that well that is why I use a rag. The tip of the wand on the lubricant then is inserted into the side of the tool through an o-ring.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


mattsz

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Reply #12 on: September 22, 2013, 09:44:47 pm
There is no way for the barrel ferrule to stick out the end of the version of the tool that I have.  One end is the stepped open end for the housing, the other end is solid, closed rubber...

But not for long...  ;)


Dave1

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Reply #13 on: September 22, 2013, 10:34:22 pm
That cable luber in the link above don't get great reviews and never will fully seal. You will always get some blowback out of the wrong end. They get a mixed bag of reviews online. Some people love um, some hate them.

If you want a cable oiler that has no mess. Get the old British design. A Doherty hydralic cable oiler....Video of how to use one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8l-AzJ4j7Q


Blltrdr

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Reply #14 on: September 23, 2013, 01:47:18 am
This is the one I am referring to.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


mattsz

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Reply #15 on: September 23, 2013, 02:54:40 am
Mine's just like that, but I think it only has one screw...


Blltrdr

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Reply #16 on: September 23, 2013, 03:47:52 am
Mine's just like that, but I think it only has one screw...
So I have the same one you do. I don't understand why you are having problems using it. Are you disconnecting your cables from the levers?
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


Dave1

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Reply #17 on: September 23, 2013, 08:37:21 pm
Does't matter if its the single screw or double screw they all get blowback and you waste oil and money. Like I said they get mixed reviews. Some people love them some people hate them! Its a chinese design...Only way of stopping the mess from going all over your bike is to hold a cloth over the opposite end to where the cable inserts to stop the blowback.

The one in the video is a British design from way back when...And as you see in the video actually works as intended..Without mess going every where. But you have to take apart the cables at handle bar end to use it. Plus you can use any oil you like in it. Potentially saving you money. Google hydralic cable oiler...Compared to the version you have it is quite abit more expensive. But worth it in my opinion.

I'm only helping you out, referring you to a much better product.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2013, 08:39:43 pm by Dave1 »


Blltrdr

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Reply #18 on: September 23, 2013, 08:57:28 pm
The one in the video seems like a hassle. It seems like it would be great for pre lubing cables before installation but that would be about all I would use it for. I will wrap a rag around my cheesy clamp type luber and use a little compressed air to push the lubricant down the entire cable. Fast and efficient! And how much lubricant do you really waste. I have been using the same can of lubricant (6 oz. size) since 2005 on my Bullet and Kawasaki and still have plenty left for who knows how many more years.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


barenekd

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Reply #19 on: September 23, 2013, 09:21:08 pm
With all the hassles you guys have with this modern hi-tech stuff, I'll stick with my little manual Dri Slide tube. The only time stuff runs out on it is when I gets to the other end. A rag or paper towel to catch it is more than enough.
bare
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GreenMachine

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Reply #20 on: September 23, 2013, 10:17:54 pm
Yeah and don't get crazy if u r lubing the speedometer cable..Just a few drops or you'll have the potential for feedback into the unit and screw up your faceplate...Might be better to do that from the other end and hang it high overnight..  ;)
Oh Magoo you done it again


D the D

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Reply #21 on: September 23, 2013, 10:21:01 pm
This is the one I am referring to.

I have one of those.  Even after slitting the closed end it's a bit messy and I had to use a rag.
If you can let the bike sit a while, then try the balloon/baggie method of putting your oil in the baggie, putting the end of the cable in the baggie, use a rubber band to seal it, and let it hang on a string from the rafters.  If not, I've been doing what Bare does.  Neither muss nor fuss, no spray all over, no soaked rags, just a lubed cable.  And you don't have to wait for oil to come out on the engine side.  Get a good amount in and it will work it's way down via gravity and repetitive use.
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D the D

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Reply #22 on: September 23, 2013, 10:25:15 pm
Yeah and don't get crazy if u r lubing the speedometer cable..Just a few drops or you'll have the potential for feedback into the unit and screw up your faceplate...Might be better to do that from the other end and hang it high overnight..  ;)

Get a tube or can of Lubriplate Instrument Grease for the Speedometer Cable.  A real light coat doesn't migrate when it's hot and stays soft down to subzero temps that aren't seen outside of Antarctica. Aero or 130A is good.
http://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Multi-Purpose-Greases.aspx
« Last Edit: September 23, 2013, 10:32:53 pm by D the D »
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barenekd

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Reply #23 on: September 23, 2013, 11:45:44 pm
+1 a little light grease does wonders. I use white lithium grease, but any light grease is good.
Bare
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D the D

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Reply #24 on: September 27, 2013, 04:04:52 am
+1 a little light grease does wonders. I use white lithium grease, but any light grease is good.
Bare

I agree, any light grease that doesn't get hard or wax up and repels water.
The Lubriplate Aero is a very light white lithium grease and the 130A is a NLGI 1.5 Calcium grease.  I like them because of the little paint cans though people prefer squeeze tubes of grease for convenience.  I also use 130A on my Garands and M14 clone.  It's what came in the little grease pots that fit in the buttstock holes.  130A and Aero are good for car window channels and door latches too.
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AussieDave

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Reply #25 on: October 02, 2013, 03:12:50 am
I've just been using a little bag sticky taped around the top of the sheath, with a little light machine oil. It seems to work fine,as long as gravity is in the right place. What is the advantage of this gadget of which you speak?
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D the D

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Reply #26 on: October 02, 2013, 06:18:11 am
What is the advantage of this gadget of which you speak?

It is supposed to encase the cable end and sheath in rubber so that you can poke an aerosol spray can tube into a tiny hole and pray/force lube down the length of the cable.  It mainly gets soaking wet with lube and becomes a dripping mess. It's purpose is to make the manufacturer some money.
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AussieDave

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Reply #27 on: October 02, 2013, 07:16:08 am
You made me laugh heh heh. I guess the manufacturer won't be getting a lot of repeat business then.!
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mattsz

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Reply #28 on: October 02, 2013, 12:19:00 pm
You made me laugh heh heh. I guess the manufacturer won't be getting a lot of repeat business then.!

I think you'll find that's where you're wrong!  The cable lube manufacturers make them...  ;)