Author Topic: Points life -Solved!  (Read 7523 times)

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ace.cafe

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Reply #15 on: September 23, 2013, 05:18:52 pm
Always gap the points first at .015" at the peak of the distributor cam.
Then time the bike by putting the engine at exactly .8mm(~.032") before TDC, and then rotating the points plate until the points just barely begin to crack open(and turn on a 12v test light if you are using one). Then tighten down the points plate.
If you time it first, and then adjust the points gap, the timing will change.
So, always do the gap first, then time it.
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baird4444

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Reply #16 on: September 24, 2013, 12:45:31 am
Part of my oil change routine was to wipe a drop of oil on the cam
the points lobe runs on. I went thru 3 sets of points in 38,000 miles.
seems like each set lasted 12 to 14,000 miles. Not cause they burnt,
the rubbing lobe was worn.
             - Mike
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 but tomorrow I shall be sober and you will still be ugly'
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edthetermite

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Reply #17 on: September 24, 2013, 01:53:08 pm
Was the bike not starting or running rough when u decided to change the points or were you figuring it was time with 19k on the set? Where the original points badly pitted (sign that the cap is bad). You could checked its operation with your meter but would need a capacitance meter to actually see its true value between .18 -.25 mfd. I'm assuming u removed your plug, had the piston at just "before TDC "to check and see that your points where just starting to open and then adjusted with a feeler gauge .015 when at the height of TDC...That should get u in the ballpark and the bike started unless their is another issue like a weak battery, defective coil, or as you suggested another wiring issue related to High Voltage generation to the plug.. I think the timing is 8mm before TDC...Hope that helps you and once u dial it in you'll be good to go for another 19k...

Bike left me sitting on side of road and was to the point it could hardly idle. The point's pads look to be in fine shape: no pitting or uneven wear although the rub block has considerable wear. I have another set on order. The battery passed a load check. I will go through timing one step at a time to see if anything appears out of order.
Ed   - Long Live the Iron Barrel !!!!

2008 Military RE "535"    2006 Ural Gear Up


Blltrdr

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Reply #18 on: September 24, 2013, 02:57:02 pm
Are you sure it isn't a fuel problem. A cracked intake hose will make your bike run like you describe. It seems that many times it turns out that it is the opposite problem than what you are sure it is. I had a problem where my bike would just quit running but then I could restart it and it would run fine. This went on for a while as I checked everything. One day I did the unthinkable. I unscrewed the expensive Hitchcock's made in England 50's gas cap and replaced it with my cheap Emgo cap and voila, no more unexpected roadside stops.
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edthetermite

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Reply #19 on: September 25, 2013, 12:46:22 pm
Timing was slightly off. I had run the bike extra hard for a short period and I guess the higher than normal revs managed to loosen the points cam bolt on the end of the timing shaft; this allowed the cam to shift position. Will start to locktite this puppy going forward.
Ed   - Long Live the Iron Barrel !!!!

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cyrusb

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Reply #20 on: September 25, 2013, 02:34:29 pm
Timing was slightly off. I had run the bike extra hard for a short period and I guess the higher than normal revs managed to loosen the points cam bolt on the end of the timing shaft; this allowed the cam to shift position. Will start to locktite this puppy going forward.
Now that's weird, should not have made a difference. So that means the taper unseated? Normally you have to jack that taper off (no pun intended) with the internal thread to remove it.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 
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baird4444

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Reply #21 on: September 26, 2013, 12:52:32 am
as that block wears and the gap lessens, the timing will be retarding....
I used to just open the gap in small increments till it ran right. Could
usually tell when the idle settled down better at lights and it quit popping
back out the carby. in other words, I did my fine tuning of the
timing with the points, just seemed easier to me.
         - Mike
'My dear you are ugly,
 but tomorrow I shall be sober and you will still be ugly'
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GreenMachine

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Reply #22 on: September 26, 2013, 03:36:29 am
Whatever works. Glad to see your back on the road and satisfied with the fix...
Oh Magoo you done it again


edthetermite

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Reply #23 on: September 26, 2013, 02:31:39 pm
Whatever works. Glad to see your back on the road and satisfied with the fix...

Put a 125 miles on her yesterday with the old points still 'ker chugging' along! But this bike is never really happy being totally free of mechanical issues. About 4 miles out the speedo needle started going from 20 to 60 and back again in about a half second. Time to replace the sending unit....it never ends....   :'(
Ed   - Long Live the Iron Barrel !!!!

2008 Military RE "535"    2006 Ural Gear Up


GreenMachine

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Reply #24 on: September 26, 2013, 02:58:12 pm
Re. the speedometer, u  might want to remove the cable and put a few drops of oil down it overnight and reinstall the next morning to see if that improves the needle jump.
Oh Magoo you done it again


Blltrdr

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Reply #25 on: September 26, 2013, 07:37:54 pm
Put a 125 miles on her yesterday with the old points still 'ker chugging' along! But this bike is never really happy being totally free of mechanical issues. About 4 miles out the speedo needle started going from 20 to 60 and back again in about a half second. Time to replace the sending unit....it never ends....   :'(

If you do replace buy the metal one with grease zerk.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII