[MrktStrtMyhm]

I was initially hesitant to take my RE on the highways around Philly for a number of reasons (inexperience, reckless drivers, concern about the bike holding up). Well after riding my beauty for almost 2 months, I've graduated from back roads, to business routes, to now the highway. I took my first trip on I-95 yesterday, following a 250 roundtrip ride this past weekend on I-81, I-83, I-283, Rt. 30, and I-76.
I must say, the bike holds it's own. I'm not used to being passed on the highway, but I have no problem cruising @ 60-70 mph and letting all the busy-bodies pass me by. My only thought is that I should be cautious of how long I keep the bike near maximum throttle since it's a newer bike (just approaching 870 miles). But I'm not sure if this applies to the new EFI bikes or not. I switched out the oil for the second time @ 780 miles, and the chain tension, brakes, tires, all look fine. Still haven't figured out my MPG, but I'm guessing anywhere from 40-60 mpg depending on where I'm riding.

[tooseevee]

I was initially hesitant to take my RE on the highways around Philly for a number of reasons (inexperience, reckless drivers, concern about the bike holding up). Well after riding my beauty for almost 2 months, I've graduated from back roads, to business routes, to now the highway

....but I have no problem cruising @ 60-70 mph and letting all the busy-bodies pass me by.

 My only thought is that I should be cautious of how long I keep the bike near maximum throttle since it's a newer bike (just approaching 870 miles). But I'm not sure if this applies to the new EFI bikes or not.

           I have an AVL, not a UCE, but I would want to know that fer sher beFORE I spent a day on freeways.

[Royalista]

Cruising at about 65 while staying in touch with the engine shouldn't give problems. With a top of 82 that's still safely below WOT.
Unless you're made of steel I guess you'll tire sooner than the tiger. I know I do. 

[MrktStrtMyhm]

           I have an AVL, not a UCE, but I would want to know that fer sher beFORE I spent a day on freeways.

For sure! I gathered all I could from the internet/my dealer, and from there gradually worked up to higher speeds. If anything, I think I'll invest in some thicker tires for more road grip. It does get a bit wobbly at times.

[Rich Mintz]

Once I passed 600 miles and had my first service, I stopped worrying about how I used the bike and just rode. (That was what my dealer advised: "ride mostly in city traffic for the first 600 miles, then just ride.")

Today I completed my fourth Northeast Corridor round trip, returning from DC to NYC (via US 50, US 301, Del 1, I-295, and the final 50 miles on NJ Turnpike). I'm used to the bike on the highway. It doesn't have the power of a larger bike, but it's maneuverable and it has style.

With my large body on it, it cruises fine at 55-60, and can be pushed to cruise 65-70. That's not fast enough for the left lane, but it's more than fast enough for the right lane, and usually I'm not the slowest vehicle on the road.

I admit I'm happier on US 301 (at 55-60mph) and on I-295 (at 65mph and keeping up with the flow of traffic) than I am on the New Jersey Turnpike. That's just the kind of bike it is.

If you're going to do a lot of highway riding, it's absolutely necessary that you torque and Loctite everything down, or you'll lose parts on the road. Just today, I almost lost one of my tank bolts (from the tank I put back on the bike this morning) after about 100 miles because I didn't tighten it down enough.

I'm still on the stock tires (at roughly 4500 miles). I'll probably upgrade when I replace them.

[hortoncode3]

Make sure, if you are bent on a tire change, that they'll fit BETWEEN the fenders. My '09 G5 had a tiny rubbing issue when I changed out the stock Avons for K70's. The dealer had to carefully cut a portion of the fender mount away to make it fit. Nothing major in the surgery dept...but enough. The size was exactly the same as the old tire but  I guess Dunlop  must have a slightly thicker sidewall.

[Craig McClure]

K70's should fit your bike without altering bike, if using the correct 3.50 rear & 3.25 front sizes. More than enough tire for the RE.
  ***Here is a Freeway tip:  Every minute or so, close your throttle for 2 seconds - This always draws oil into the bore & upper end.  I have done this regularly ever since seizing an engine 45 years ago, it never happened again. So I guess I was given good advice from a Racer Friend.

[barenekd]

The bike will handle 65-70 easily. I have ridden over 100 mile legs on the freeway at that speed with no problems, ecxcept the mileage kinda goes to hell!. Ive ridden over 350 miles a day in mixed conditions and found the bike to be extremely comfortable. Never an ache or pain, but I do tend to get tired riding that long through the twisties!
I wish the Goose were so comfortable!
Bare

[mattsz]

***Here is a Freeway tip:  Every minute or so, close your throttle for 2 seconds - This always draws oil into the bore & upper end.  I have done this regularly ever since seizing an engine 45 years ago, it never happened again. So I guess I was given good advice from a Racer Friend.

Close the throttle for 2 seconds?  Every minute?  While riding on the highway? 

Probably not the place for it, but I'd love to be educated about why this is a good idea!  I assumed that my oil pump would take care of the oil circulation on its own...

[Craig McClure]

Hi It's a "Cant Hurt" kind of measure, not saying you should slow down, just flick the throttle closed periodically. NOT when you're in front of a Tailgating Semi Truck. I believe it helps the oil circulate to the most needful places. Its worked for me.  ANY OTHER EXPERT OPINIONS?

[mattsz]

For all I know, it's just what the bike wants, Craig!  I really don't have a clue.  I wonder why it works...

[GreenMachine]

My hand gets tired anyway, and the enfield seems to enjoy the varying throttle twisting. .My Yamaha doesn't mind it either..Is that expert enough??

[Ducati Scotty]

I think what Craig mentions was a break in technique for older air cooled engines with weak oiling systems and cast iron components.  The deceleration would take the usual stress and heat off the engine and allow oil to splash around the cylinder cooling things down.  For the old REs with cast iron parts and less than perfect manufacturing tolerances it made sense, at least during break in to avoid overheating and seizing.  Most new motors, including the RE UCE, have more than adequate oiling for the engine and this is no longer needed.  When my bike had about 800 miles on it, I ran it at constant speeds of 45-60mph for 4 days and 1,600 miles without any problems.

Scott

[D the D]

I think what Craig mentions was a break in technique for older air cooled engines with weak oiling systems and cast iron components.  The deceleration would take the usual stress and heat off the engine and allow oil to splash around the cylinder cooling things down.  For the old REs with cast iron parts and less than perfect manufacturing tolerances it made sense, at least during break in to avoid overheating and seizing.  Most new motors, including the RE UCE, have more than adequate oiling for the engine and this is no longer needed.  When my bike had about 800 miles on it, I ran it at constant speeds of 45-60mph for 4 days and 1,600 miles without any problems.

Scott

+1  If you buy a set of aftermarket rings for an engine (not RE for some reason) it will include instructions which tell you to accelerate and power brake at least 10 times to initially set the rings.  Doing so later isn't going to hurt anything.  What happens is that engine braking causes high vacuum in the intake and cylinder, drawing oil up around the rings.  Theory is it lubricates and cools the rings and piston as well as drawing away polished off metal from the break-in process.

[mattsz]

Aha - cheers gents!

(D the D - just a friendly jab over in JOTD... no offense, I hope!)