[High On Octane]

Sorry for pissing in your Cheerios Blltrdr but the fact is neil asked about making his bike more reliable.  It's not flipping rocket science that electronic ignition is more reliable than points.  How can you even argue that?  And I started wrenching on bikes when I was 13, so regardless of your opinion, I've been cranking wrenches long enough to what I'm talking about.  Sometimes I'm wrong, I can willingly admit that.  But EI is still more reliable than points, which is why I commented on this post in the first place.  But thanks for your concern. 

Scottie

[neil]

HI fellow Bulleteers:
I started this topic to talk about what we have done to our bikes to sort them out for reliability, not to start a war over points vs. electronic ignition. I changed from the points because my vision, bending down to try to see the inside of the distributor, was too much of a challenge. Also I wear glasses with bifocals and I could not see how the points worked or how to set them etc. I wanted to do it once and be done with it. The unit I got from CMW made it easy and I haven't had to do anything to it since. That was important to me.
Far sight, great with glasses - - - close work like inside the distributor, not so much.
Neil and Buzzy the Bullet.

[Blltrdr]

Started wrenching at 13, I would have bet it was 10. My bad! I always say it's better that someones pissin' in my Cheerios than in my tank. You guys slay me! My day is now complete. So serious you are (in voice of Yoda)!

I have read way more complaints of EI problems than I have ever read of points failure. To each is own. I bought my Bullet to tinker with it. I maybe check and adjust my points/timing a couple times a year with checks and adjustments on everything else that needs adjusting. In my opinion, relying on EI is something I would rather not do. I have a very expensive Boyer unit sitting in the parts bin. Complete junk in my opinion. The cheap India point sets have got me to point A to B with no interruptions. I would suggest spending money elsewhere to gain reliability. I would suggest going over your wiring harness from front to back checking connections and grounds and looking for cuts or scrapes through the insulation. Have read more posts on electrical problems than anything else. That is one reason I built a custom wiring harness and added a 210 watt Sparx charging system. I find that money well spent. Also a new horn is in order for all that still have the stock one. For one, it sounds like a cat coughing up fur balls. And second, most cagers can't hear worth a crap, especially the young rap aficionados. Now a Bad Boy horn will scare the living crap out of one of those trunk resonator freaks.

  Chillin'

[Ice]

And ride it regularly. Seriously.
Bullets that only see sporadic use tend to give more trouble.

[Chuck D]

And ride it regularly. Seriously.
Bullets that only see sporadic use tend to give more trouble.

Best answer yet.

[cafeman]

I don't know, my points seem to be holding up quite well and I see no need to replace them for reliability purposes. Properly adjusted and "maintained" points can be as "reliable" as any electronic gizmo, maybe better?....and even more trust-worthy. Ease of/minimal maintenance or longer service intervals and prolong peak performance would be the main reason for  going electronic, but not for reliability.  Just my thoughts. I like simple.
I just tinker on my Bullet with the "good book" at arms reach.....seems to keep it in top running condition and reliable as any other modern bike I've owned. 

[D the D]

Seems the OP opted for EI.  Let's move on to other things, like Austrian wheel bearings or Swedish valve stem caps.

[High On Octane]

Man.  Well, I guess all I have to say is have fun next time you need to adjust your points on the side of the road, I'll just keep trucking on. 

Scottie

[D the D]

Man.  Well, I guess all I have to say is have fun next time you need to adjust your points on the side of the road, I'll just keep trucking on. 

Scottie

Swedish valve stem caps will help.

[Blltrdr]

I installed a set of chrome reverse muffler bearings just because I had some extra change laying around. Can't really claim it improves reliability, but it does get lots of looks (and for some odd reason, some strange ones too).

[mrunderhill1975a]

I have been following this thread for a while and thinking about what I have done........and after carefull consideration I think the number one reliability fix is a clean air and fuel filter.  So, regular tuneups where oil/air/fuel filter changes are performed.  Keep a points file on-board seems to help in between points replacement every 5000 miles or so.  One reliability improvement I just discovered was to clean out the muffler/silencer using both detergent (brand name Simple-Green) and some caustic soda mix drain cleaner (brand name "Zep").  At about 24000 miles the bike started using oil, and I assume that this unburned oil was collecting in the muffler/silencer.  Anyway, after I first used the Simple Green detergent in the exhaust for 24 hrs, I then washed out the detergent.  After letting carefully poured the caustic mix in muffler/silencer (first I put on a rain coat, rubber gloves, full face eye shield) and let the caustic solution sit for about an hour, a large amount of carbon was dislodged from the silencer.  If you try this, please use extra caution, add the caustic to water, not water to caustic as it will boil and splash the caustic into your eyes causing blindness.  The spent caustic is still dangerous after use so you need a good place to dispose of spent solution.  Use of the spent caustic as a drain cleaner would probably work provided you still use the protective equipment.

To make along story short, my starting and performance improved 30% after opening up the exhaust, it now runs like a new machine.