[Superchuck]

Yesterday when mounting my aftermarket silencer, I took off the header pipe and noticed that it wasn't seated properly on the engine exhaust hole.  (this happened when I removed the header pipe for hot-pipe removal- apparently I didn't mount it back on well enough).  For the past week or so I've been getting significant exhaust blow-by out and around the header pipe.  Didn't know until now.  My new gasket is fairly burnt up, and the steel skeleton of the gasket is visible in many portions of it.  I mounted it back up, with a bunch of grease to help seat it in place, but i'm sure it's still not 'sealed'.

I'm at work now (via my bike), which is 55 miles from home.  I'm also going straight on a weekend visit from here at 5 PM to DC (30 miles away).  I read a post or two on Liquid Gasket (Black Hi-Temp RTC) and I know it has to set up a while before riding.

I plan to get some of that RTC and try and seal the leak once I get to my friend's place tonight, but in the meantime, is it super harmful to run it with the header leak?  I'm jetted up significantly, and although still lean at WOT, it seems pretty much fine at other ranges.

Also, will I be able to find a replacement gasket anywhere, or is this an Enfield-only size part?

Thanks very much for any help or advice.  I plan to pick-up anything I need to fix it over lunch or right after work.

Cheers,

Chuck

[High On Octane]

The exhaust leak will slightly lean out your air/fuel mixture but not too drastically.  As for the silicone RTV, I used the Permatex Ultra Black Silicone on the Blackhawk.  When I did mine I removed the pipes and put a bead of silicone around the the end of the header pipe right where it goes into the motor.  When you slide the pipe in the silicone will spread itself and seal up the leaks.  I'd try to let it dry for 2-4 hours before riding it so maybe try to get this done on your lunch break.  You can get the Ultra Black from any auto parts store for about $7 a tube.

Scottie

[Superchuck]

Thanks for the quick reply!  Will this eliminate my need to replace the actual gasket too, or is the RTV just a quick fix?

Also, I have the Electra AVL... my header pipe has a permanent bracket thing attached to it which clamps or 'presses' the pipe against the engine's surface (and gasket).  It doesn't insert into the engine hole like I gather the Iron Barrels do.

[tooseevee]

Thanks for the quick reply!  Will this eliminate my need to replace the actual gasket too, or is the RTV just a quick fix?

Also, I have the Electra AVL... my header pipe has a permanent bracket thing attached to it which clamps or 'presses' the pipe against the engine's surface (and gasket).  It doesn't insert into the engine hole like I gather the Iron Barrels do.

        You should put a new gasket in.

         If you clean all the old gasket out, clean all the UltraBlack out, put a little UltraBlack on the new gasket & stick it in, "offer up" the pipe to the hole in the head & tighten those nuts up evenly, wiggling the pipe the whole time until it's solid, there is no reason in the world that it should leak.

       Then when you put the muffler on, bend the brackets or use washers (or a bloody great hammer) so that when you tighten it down you don't stress the pipe.

         I might get in trouble here, but send me your address offline & I'll put an exhaust gasket in the mail for you today.

[boggy]

I did some hi-temp aluminum tape around the header (goldstar header on an AVL engine) because it wasn't wide enough to fit snug in the exhaust port.  I put in a new gasket because the goldstar header isn't long enough to make contact with the back of the exhaust port.  Then I used permatex and let it sit for 24 hours before starting.  Significant leak was sealed.  The longer you can wait on the permatex the better.

Good luck.

[Superchuck]

Excellent, thanks guys-

Got some ultra black permatex just now and a little monkey wrench so I can do the work once I get to my buddy's place tonight.  Dumbly I removed the toolboxes for 'style' and just figured it'd be 'fine'.  Going to find a place on the bike for a few essential tools now.

I'll do the permatex tonight or tomorrow AM, and it'll be able to set for at least 24 hrs until I need to trek it back to baltimore on sunday.

Cheers,

chuck

[High On Octane]

Do it tonight so you can still ride tomorrow afternoon if you decide to.   

Scottie

[Superchuck]

Well said Sir!     fingers crossed

[D the D]

Do as Scottie says and give it as much time to cure as you can time before you start it up.

[High On Octane]

Basically, you want the silicone to be hard before you start it, otherwise the exhaust will just blow the silicone out.  12 hours will be plenty long, but 24 hours would be best.

Scottie

[Arizoni]

Rather than trying the Ultra-black Silicone, I'd go with the Permatex Ultra Copper High Temperature silicone.

It's safe to use with aluminum parts (like the cylinder head) and it can take up to 700 degrees F.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-copper-maximum-temperature-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail

The Ultra Black is great for aluminum and oil environments but it is not as capable when it is used in a high temperature environment.
Ultra Black is only good at temperatures up to 500 degrees F. and the exhaust gasses can easily heat the pipe up to that temperature.

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail

As I've mentioned before, there are a lot of different kinds of silicone rubber nowadays and if the wrong one is used it can give folks the idea that none of them work.

Go with the High Temperature stuff to seal the exhaust pipe.

[D the D]

I used High Temp Gray.  The color blended in very well at the head/pipe line.

[High On Octane]

I used the Ultra Black on my header pipes, and 2 months/1,000 miles later when I had to pull everything back apart to replace the alternator/rotor I almost didn't get the pipe back out of the motor.  And I'm an aggressive rider that is always on the throttle, so I know I'm producing some massive amounts of heat, and the Ultra Black was still so in tact it didn't want to let go.  I had to have my buddy hold the bike while I sat on the floor yanking the head pipe forward.  The Ultra Black works just fine. 

Scottie

[Superchuck]

Thanks for the info- I ended up getting the Ultra Black (before reading the recent deliberation on the subject).  It only had about 18 hours to dry before my trek back home on Sunday but it seems to have done the trick.  Once I get the gasket in the mail, I'll throw a bit of Ultra Black on it as well and I think I'll be golden.

Thanks all!

Chuck

[High On Octane]

Glad you made it home safe without issues!  I'm telling ya, that Ultra Black is some wicked stuff.  I've kept in my garage at all times for the last 10 years.  It's so universal and I use it so often that I consider it to be a "stocking item" for my garage.  Along with Loctite, brake parts cleaner, carb cleaner and a handful of other necessities.

Scottie