[MrktStrtMyhm]

Motul 15W-50 is what I'm looking to buy ($12/L). Going to go through the 300 mile service in a couple days. I was a little hesitant, but I'd rather not pay $250 + tax to have my dealer change the oil and "make sure everything's tight." I have the thread lock and the tools to do everything (cost me about $100).

I also have a pretty full bottle of Bel-Ray 15W-50 in my apartment. Probably not a good idea to top off one with the other is it?

[Arizoni]

The only thing you didn't mention was a new oil filter cartridge and of all the oil changes that really need a new filter, your first change is it.  There will be a wealth of metal chips on your pump inlet screen (under the little casting that's held in place by two small hex head bolts) and in your old oil filter cartridge.

The Motul is fine if it is the kind that is made for motorcycles.  Do not use automobile oil.

You don't want to use any thread locking compound/material on any of the fasteners.
They don't need it and using it will make it very hard to do the next oil change.

Do not try to change the O-rings on the bottom pump screen cover or on the filter cap.
If you are careful and clean off the areas they seal against and then lightly lubricate them when you reinstall the parts the O-rings can be used for years.

When reinstalling the hex bolts that hold the covers, work back and forth between them gently working the O-rings back in place.  This isn't so important on the oil pickup screen cover but it is necessary to get the bore sealing ring on the filter cover to gently work itself back into the bore.

Generally I don't like to mix different brands of oil.  The detergents may not be totally compatable.  If it is an emergency situation where you must add some oil then any potential conflict between the oils is over-ruled by the need for some added oil.

Those little 8mm(?) hex head bolts are real easy to break off.  They only need to be torqued to 4 ft/lbs to do their job.
The big hex drain plug should be torqued to about 15 ft/lbs of torque.
This will seem to be too little but it will do the job and it won't strip out the threads.

Have fun.

[gremlin]

Motul 15W-50 is what I'm looking to buy ($12/L). Going to go through the 300 mile service in a couple days. I was a little hesitant, but I'd rather not pay $250 + tax to have my dealer change the oil and "make sure everything's tight." I have the thread lock and the tools to do everything (cost me about $100).

I also have a pretty full bottle of Bel-Ray 15W-50 in my apartment. Probably not a good idea to top off one with the other is it?

mix & match is fine.  no need for another oil holy war.

[D the D]

Yes, it's not the 1950's and your not running an exotic oil, just an expensive one.  Motul is very good oil.  Bel-Ray has a history of good products too.  It you're using the Bel-Ray to top off the Motul, your engine won't know the difference.  This additive package turning oil to gel or water or something just doesn't happen.  No mainstream manufacturer sells an oil that can't be mixed - their reputation would end very quickly.  Won't argue this.  If one doesn't believe it, stay in the dark ages; I don't care.  But please don't run around screaming the sky is falling and scaring the unknowledgeable.

[Bulletman]

mix & match is fine.  no need for another oil holy war.

+1 Gremlin......lmao

[Craig McClure]

SORRY GOT TO SAY IT:  Since you obviously Don't Know. A scientifically proven fact that SYNTHETIC OILS prevent wear of parts & sludge. I have used AMSOIL, but use the cheaper MOBIL 1 now, as do many others here. My  G5 Deluxe, runs beautifully on it & is oil tight.
  Also in the SNIDAL MANUAL, he recommends SYNTHETIC ATF in the forks, I happened to have some AMSOIL ATF, & it works perfectly & will NEVER need changing. Look all this up on line to verify, or read the oil threads here. You will thank me.  Cheers, Craig

[Ice]

 Synthetics are wondrous for sure but there are conditions where they may not be the optimum choice for a variety of reasons.

 Take for one example "TIMEX" my Iron Barrel Bullet.

 Here on the flogging soggy wet side of WA, crank case condensation is a year round consideration. The damp winters here dictate shortening my bikes usual oil change intervals from 1,000 miles down to 750 and sometimes 500 to keep the mayo monster out of the crank cases.
 Even with our 90 degree summers it never really gets hot enough around here to need an oil cooler.  Synthetic oil would be wasted in this case so TIMEX gets heavy duty dinosaur oil instead.

 The thing I like best about today's synthetic oils is that largest majority of them are made from base stocks that play very well with standard seal materials. You can just dump the oil in and go. Gone are the days when a fellow had to tear down his engine and replace all the seals with special synthetic oil compatible ones in order to keep the slick stuff inside.







 



 

[tooseevee]

SORRY GOT TO SAY IT:  Since you obviously Don't Know. A scientifically proven fact that SYNTHETIC OILS prevent wear of parts & sludge. I have used AMSOIL, but use the cheaper MOBIL 1 now, as do many others here. My  G5 Deluxe, runs beautifully on it & is oil tight.

            Who is this directed at?

             I can't figure it out from the thread & you don't Quote anyone.

[D the D]

            Who is this directed at?

             I can't figure it out from the thread & you don't Quote anyone.

Me either.  No one said anything bad about synthetics. 

But since we're having an oil war:  My oil is best and yours sucks!  And that's a scientific fact and some unknown, self proclaimed, armchair expert on the internet told me, so I am right and you are stupid.  And nanner nanner nanner.   

[Ducati Scotty]

My armchair expert is better than your armchair expert.

[Ice]

This thread is headed down a slippery slope 

[no bs]

This thread is headed down a slippery slope 

with andy granatelli at the bottom!

[Bulletman]

 
It's beginning to get very oily.....

[Bulletman]

Gashousegorilla had posted this awhile ago....tae a look at the link it might stop the oil war....
http://www.post610.org/truth_about_motorcycle_oils.htm

There will be a test before this thread ends....

[Ducati Scotty]

Knowledge and facts have no leverage against a good oil war thread.